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Money squandered - hopefully lessons learned

 
  #46  
Old 02-12-2016, 08:43 PM
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Restoration is a cost and time lesson. Maintenance is cost and possibly a lesson. Modification is a roll of the dice with the house wining most of the time. When I yanked the motor out of the dump truck my wife said "I thought this wasn't going to be a project." I thought, what about owning an old-*** vehicle *isn't* a project? Stuff breaks. Stuff gets tired. It's old for the love of God. And I'm older so back off woman!
The filter was on, so this chatter was only in my head.
Good training there.
Yup.
 
  #47  
Old 02-12-2016, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Rasputin53 View Post
Restoration is a cost and time lesson. Maintenance is cost and possibly a lesson. Modification is a roll of the dice with the house wining most of the time. When I yanked the motor out of the dump truck my wife said "I thought this wasn't going to be a project." I thought, what about owning an old-*** vehicle *isn't* a project? Stuff breaks. Stuff gets tired. It's old for the love of God. And I'm older so back off woman!
The filter was on, so this chatter was only in my head.
Good training there.
Yup.
You certainly told her (in your mind anyway).

I'm not operating with a large bank roll but, my wife (version 2.0) has never hassled me about buying tools or parts for my truck. --in fact, she's the one that encouraged me to go look at the truck I have now, when I saw it for sale and showed her the classifies ad for it.

Wife version 1.0 was a completely different story on the subject of buying tools or spending money on my Mustang. I still have the '68 Mustang and she's history.
 
  #48  
Old 02-12-2016, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt View Post
The fill tube could probably be "fixed" with some sort of cold solder or something.
Do what you got to do Hill. I was mainly keyed in on it because if it is indeed a Montego tranny that tube you have would be shaped for a car firewall and a V8 engine. The strap on it to support the top of it won't bolt to a 240/300. But at least it's a solid mount pan style rather than a push in case style.
 
  #49  
Old 02-12-2016, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA View Post
Do what you got to do Hill. I was mainly keyed in on it because if it is indeed a Montego tranny that tube you have would be shaped for a car firewall and a V8 engine. The strap on it to support the top of it won't bolt to a 240/300. But at least it's a solid mount pan style rather than a push in case style.
I have ran across some aftermarket tubes. Was thinking of using one of those. The current mount is solid but I know it will loosen up in time with no support.
 
  #50  
Old 02-15-2016, 07:46 AM
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While I did not accomplish much if any working on the 71, I did drive it a little more to give the transmission and the rebuilt engine some tests along with my power steering.
Observations included - 1) I need to find out why my steering catches when steering as one goes down the road; 2) there is a lot of vibration when I put the truck in gear (R or D) and hold down on the brake.
While I don't think it has any impact on item 1, the outer radius arm bushing on the passenger side is torn up a bunch (I replaced them 1.5 years ago).
Regarding item 2, there are several items I don't like about my C4 conversion including shift indicator not lining up well, my lack of a kickdown lever (so far) and this roughness in gear with brake applied. In other words, it feels like an amateurish install, which is what it is.
 
  #51  
Old 02-15-2016, 12:41 PM
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Number one could be the king pins are dry and sticking. On number two, is the exhaust system hitting a crossmember or something?
 
  #52  
Old 02-15-2016, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA View Post
Number one could be the king pins are dry and sticking. On number two, is the exhaust system hitting a crossmember or something?
King pins were rebuilt less than two years ago and they have been greased once or twice in that time frame - only 2K miles or so. Keep thinking it some sort of bind at the steering linkage/steering arm.
 
  #53  
Old 02-15-2016, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt View Post
King pins were rebuilt less than two years ago and they have been greased once or twice in that time frame - only 2K miles or so. Keep thinking it some sort of bind at the steering linkage/steering arm.
Uh, maybe. Are you the one that re-used a Bendix pitman arm on a Ford/Saginaw box?
 
  #54  
Old 02-15-2016, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA View Post
Uh, maybe. Are you the one that re-used a Bendix pitman arm on a Ford/Saginaw box?
Pitman arm came with steering gear I pulled out of a 71/72 truck at the wrecking yard. Seem to recall a hard time connecting pitman arm to steering linkage.
 
  #55  
Old 02-16-2016, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt View Post
Seem to recall a hard time connecting pitman arm to steering linkage.
"rut row raggy". There maybe your problem.
 
  #56  
Old 02-16-2016, 07:34 AM
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So, I am guessing I should probably put it back on the stands, disconnect the pitman arm from the steering linkage and try again? I can't remember back to when I was converting to disc brakes, but I used spindles from a 78 f150 (I believe). Would I have used the drag link, etc. from the donor vehicle as well.
 
  #57  
Old 02-16-2016, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt View Post
So, I am guessing I should probably put it back on the stands, disconnect the pitman arm from the steering linkage and try again? I can't remember back to when I was converting to disc brakes, but I used spindles from a 78 f150 (I believe). Would I have used the drag link, etc. from the donor vehicle as well.
I do not know. I have read different guys doing the linkage differently. Someone should chime in with their experience soon. I can tell you Ford changed the drag links mid year 1971. Before and after ser #M00,001. May be your truck had one of them and the donor truck and it's pitman arm had the other? What is the engineering number on the pitman arm you are using?
 
  #58  
Old 03-05-2016, 07:40 PM
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Gained some motivation on the project

You guys probably would not accept my approach to repairing my rusted out floor boards (well driver's side was real bad, passenger was not all that bad). We took new pans and riveted them in on top of the existing ones without cutting them out. Lot of freaking work. Went through a ton of 1/8 drill bits, until today when I tried out some shorter ones I found at Home Depot. Never broke another one.
A friend of mine who has worked mostly on Chevrolets suggested this approach since the truck is not a restoration project and is meant to be a daily driver.
As we were working on it, I realized that actually only have one cab corner and one lower panel on the passenger door that will require a lot of work.
Odd, the driver's side floor pan was really bad, but the right side cab corner and right side kick panel and right side lower door panel were the worse. Go figure.
But after seeing the finished results, I am somewhat more motivated to push forward.
 
  #59  
Old 03-05-2016, 07:57 PM
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I put floor pans in my '68 Mustang years ago. I cut out all the bad, rusted areas so that the rust wouldn't continue to migrate into the good parts of the floor.

I laid the new pans over the holes and from under the vehicle traced an outline of the holes onto the new floor pans. After that, I took the floor pans out and then cut them an additional 1/2" outside the lines, drilled 5/16" holes around the edges about every 1-1/2" and then plug welded them in.

It's a lot more work but, if I had to do it over again, I would butt weld (flush fit) the new pans to the existing pan. Once the new pans are butt welded, the welds ground smooth and painted over, you can't tell they've ever been replaced and it looks factory original.

However, having pans lap welded/riveted over the existing pan is a lot better than having gaping, rusted out holes in the floor.

This is the belly of my '68 Mustang.

[IMG][/IMG]
 
  #60  
Old 03-06-2016, 07:21 PM
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Since I'm not passing mine off as a restoration but rather a refurbished driver, plus I'm a novice at welding, I'll also go the way hillcountry did. Floorboard is only 1/3 rusted but I'll lay the entire floorboard over it.
 

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