Picked up my 1962 F250 from the guy that rebuilt my engine. It run fine for several days. Now it won't start. I have been troubleshooting it and it appears that no gas is getting to the carb. I base this on the following:

1) I pulled the input line off the fuel pump and gas came out.
2) I pressured the fuel tank and gas came out the end of the line where I detached it.
3) I removed the bowl and fuel was in it. I removed the sediment, changed the filter, and reinstalled it.
4) I reattached the input fuel line to the pump and detached the output line from it, pressured the the tank, and fuel came out the output side of the fuel pump.
5) I reattached the output line to the fuel pump, turned the engine over for several seconds, checked the bowl on the carb, and no fuel in it.

Questions:

1) could a new fuel pump go bad in just a few weeks?
2) it's a mechanical fuel pump. I assume when I turn the engine over, the fuel pump should start drawing gas from the tank and pushing it to the carb. Correct?
3) Is there anything in the carb that could prevent fuel from getting to it? O'Rielly's autoparts said there is a small filter in the carb, but I can't find it in any of my manuals. It's a remanufactured 2 barrel.
4) Could an improperly set fuel inlet needle on the carb cause the fuel not to pump to the bowl?
5) Will I damage anything if pour some gas directly into the carb to try and get it to start?

As you can tell I nothing almost nothing about carburetors and fuel systems.

 

If fuel isn't getting to the carburetor, I see these possibilities:

1. Sediment from the tank has plugged the filter. Since there was sediment already, it sounds like it might be a lot of it, and it might take several filters. Check the tank, and it might even be necessary to clean the tank.
2. The pump's suction capability has failed. You did pressurize the tank, but if the pressure exceeded the suction capability of the fuel pump, your test was invalid.
3. The pump isn't working because something mechanical is wrong with whatever actuates it, or the pump itself has malfunctioned.
4. There is something wrong with the pickup tube in the tank. They often rust out at or near the bottom, and a pinhole will allow the pump to cavitate instead of draw fuel. Does the problem go away if the tank is full?

Hope this helps.

 

There is no filter in the carb, there is no filter that threads into the front of the carb.

The only fuel filter these truck came with, is located at the bottom of the fuel pump, either inside a glass or metal bowl.

But, some people are unaware, so they install an in-line fuel filter that has a nipple on each end that the neoprene fuel hose clamps to.

This could be spliced into the metal fuel line in the engine compartment, or spliced into the fuel line on the frame rail.

Notice in the pic...the neoprene rubber hose and clamps between the pickup tube and the metal fuel line on the frame rail.

I've seen in-line filters here, but why people would do this is unknown, cuz they'd have to crawl under and lay on their backside to change it.

 

Thanks NumberDummy for the confirmation.

Thanks banjopicker66. The tank is full and I am sure I exceeded the suction capacity of the pump, so everything is pointing toward the pump area.

What actuates it? I know a lever on the pump going into block, but what inside actually presses it?

Also will I damage anything if I pour gas directly into the carb to try and start it?

 

[QUOTE=jawroper;15379058]Thanks NumberDummy for the confirmation.

Thanks banjopicker66. The tank is full and I am sure I exceeded the suction capacity of the pump, so everything is pointing toward the pump area.

What actuates it? I know a lever on the pump going into block, but what inside actually presses it?

Also will I damage anything if I pour gas

Edit I answered not looking at what motor you have. I didn't see where you spelled out what motor you have. I told you how a 352 works the fuel pump. I went back and looked at your original post and see that you have a 62 so no 352 unless someone removed the original and installed one.

 

We need to know what motor you have to diagnose anything further.

 

it's Y-block 292.

 

I am not familiar enough with the Y-block to answer your questions on the fuel pump actuator.

 

To answer some of your questions, yes a fuel pump could be bad out of the box. They should pump approx. 1 pint in 30 seconds at around 5 psi. Easy to check. Also try blowing the fuel line out with compressed air back into the tank to clear any rust or sediment and replace any rubber hose.

As somebody mentioned the tank probably needs cleaning. You could try pouring a small amount of fuel down the throat of the carb, maybe a teaspoon or so at a time. Be careful!

 

1961/69 F100/750: The in-cab fuel tank (C1TZ-9020-K) contains 18 gallons.

In 1970, Ford replaced this tank with the 1970 (1970/72) F100/750 19 1/2 gallon in-cab tank (D0TZ-9002-A) for use as a "service part replacement."

This tank is reproduced by Blue Oval Truck Parts (Anaheim CA), available from most of the other repro parts sellers.
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Shown as 6287 in middle pic: C1AE-6287-A .. Eccentric-Camshaft Fuel Pump Drive / Obsolete

 

Thanks everyone. I am not going to assume anything, since the engine was just rebuilt from the ground up. How can I verify that it's not the cam drive?

Tedster9 you stated that the fuel pump should "pump approx. 1 pint in 30 seconds at around 5 psi. Easy to check.". How would I check that it is doing that?

If I need to replace the pump, should I prime the system before turning the engine over?

 

Could disable the ignition and crank the engine over with the starter for 30 seconds. That should be close enough. also note the force of the fuel (pressure) too. 30 second crank is hard on them (starter). Maybe three 10 second cranks with a 5 or 10 minute rest between. I suppose since it won't start can forget the disable ignition part.

Not really necessary to prime, but be sure to replace all the rubber hoses, they don't last very long . There's a short hank of hose underneath the cab too that is often overlooked.

Be sure to keep battery on a trickle charger while troubleshooting, an engine that won't start is hell on a battery and can also ruin a starter. Limit cranking to just a few seconds at a time and allow starter to cool off for several minutes.

 

After much troubleshooting the issue turned out to be some tiny pieces of debris causing the the needle and seat in the carburetor not to work correctly. I cleaned that up and I flushed the gas tank.

Apparently the bowl filter didn't stop the debris. To avoid this in the future would an inline micron fuel filter help or cause other issues?

Thanks

 

I have a 63 with a 292 Y block, the truck had the same problem in the 70's, it was the sediment build up in the tank which believe it or not was very hard to see. and led to an intermittent problem. I started by blowing the fuel lines out with a tire pump and after doing that for a month I got mad and pulled the tank and flushed it, solving my problem. good luck

 

That will cause flooding, was that the problem before? That wasn't clear before, at least not to me. Yes you can and should, have a fuel filter. Earlier Ford trucks had one integral to the fuel pump itself.