Hello, my name is Cameron and I'm brand new here. I'm 33 living in Nashville TN. I bought my first truck last week, a 1964 f100. It's got the 223 with 3 on the tree. I've been working on a Chevy nova with a 250 for a couple years so I have some experience with 6's but I'm still learning and there seem to be some things unique to Ford.

The truck is as original as I've seen one. With the exception of the bed. The truck (allegedly) was a city work truck from 64-68 with a utility bed. Sold at auction in 68 w/o a bed and trickled it's way to me over the years. It has a plate on the radiator support the reads "64-F-5" which is a mystery to me. I ordered a 64 service manual off ebay earlier tonight so maybe that will shed some light on a few areas.

Anyhow, I'm having some problems setting a smooth idle. I set the point gap to .025, plug gap to .035. Plugs look good and the points and rotor look brand new. The timing is probably behind because if I get within 10* of TDC it studders and dies. The vac advance is nearly touching the block.

I'm going off my experience with Chevy so I'm sure there are some differences. It will run (although not smoothly) with the choke pulled about 15% out but the idle is very high. I'd guess 2500rpm as I haven't put a tach in yet. It revs (climbs) very smoothly, but it won't hold idle for crap. If I push the choke all the way in, also studdering death.

I've also noticed the fuel filter doesn't stay full. I can see a small puddle in the bottom and a slight trickle when the motor is reved. Every inline fuel filter I've ever seen always stays nice and full. Is this a Ford thing? The fuel pump is supposedly new and the tank was supposedly flushed according to the previous owner.

It also starts kind of hard but I think that will remedy itself if I can smooth out the idle. Any ideas or similar experiences? I know it's tough without actually hearing it. I may be able to take a video tomorrow. Also, please assume I'm an idiot when giving advice. Here's a few pics of my (hopefully) soon-to-be daily driver...

 

Had a little time today but didn't make much progress. I changed the fuel filter and eliminated a lot of hose that was between the hard line from the tank and the pump. Also sprayed some carb cleaner around the carb and intake looking for vacuum leaks but found none. I did take a video, although its a little dark. Idle was high as the choke was pulled about 20%. The end of the video is where you can really hear the problems. It died about half a second after the vid cuts off. You can hear it going. Here's a link...

 

Welcome to FTE. Good luck with your project.
Have you put a vacuum meter on the engine yet? That's the best way to get the carb in tune in my opinion. My 223 had an intake leak on the bottom side of the intake manifold at the #1 cylinder. Tough to find.
Also the chances are pretty good that the timing marks are inaccurate after 50 years as the crank pulleys have been know to "walk" on the hubs as the elastomer dries out. Keep posting and you'll get the help you need.

 

Checked the compression in the cylinders today. Read like this:
1-90lbs
2-75lbs
3-70lbs
4-85lbs
5-78lbs
6-88lbs
My dad told me he saw online where the compression is supposed to be 150lbs. Seems kind of high to me. I haven't received the service manual so I can't reference that.

I also pulled the valve cover and checked the rods. Everything feels perfect and it has a decent coat of thin black oil. So I think it's oiling correct, just needs some new fluids.

Removed the fuel line from the carb during the cranking to make sure the pump is pushing. Got a nice little splash at the correct intervals.

I don't have a vacuum meter but I'll see if I can pick one up tomorrow. I've never used one so I'll check some youtube vids on how to do it.

I took a video of the cranking and fuel splash. If anything looks wonky let me know. Thanks

 

I too have acquired an all original 64 F100 recently and had the same issue since mine had been hiding in a barn since 99. If you haven't rebuilt the carburetor yet I would highly recommend it. Mikes Carburetor has a very good tutorial on YouTube for the Autolite 1100 rebuild. After rebuilding my 1100 mine is running much better now.


Good Luck

 

Camron
Welcome to the site!

Check for vacuum leaks at the distributor advance diaphragm (usually not an issue during idle). Sounds like vacuum leak or misfire. You have manual brakes so should be no other vacuum connections to the motor. Also, check your oil for fuel – when the fuel pump diaphragm ruptures it sends raw fuel into the crankcase, also causing lean condition.

Seems over the years people advance the heck out of the dist to get it to run when the adv diaphragm is ruptured, then richen the heck out of the carb to compensate.
Assuming you checked wires /cap/rotor/coil and, fouled plugs and looks like you checked for hanging valves

Check #1 TDC vs the timing mark, the dampeners do move on these occasionally. Also, timing is read directly down at 12 o’clock on the 223, which is difficult because the waterpump gets in your way. Manual states 4° BTDC base timing, but mine runs best around 10°BTDC.

Check for vac leaks at the throttle shaft, if bores are worn the shaft will move around and allow air (spray carb cleaner while idling and listen for increase in RPM) bushings are available

The Acc pump on the Autolite 1100 is notorious for warping allowing fuel to leak by. Carefully flatten if its warped by tapping a thick flat screwdriver blade or drift between the mounting holes. There's a small die cast ring on the flat side to seal the gasket, use
caution so you don’t flatten it or nick it. Check the diaphragm too. Also, check to be sure the check ball for the acc pump inlet and ball/weight for outlet are present . If the carb was disassembled they are easy to lose when you flip the cover. Stick a wire up in the acc pump outlet to confirm its clear (mine was partially clogged) Symptoms of poor acc pump are extreme hesitation off idle. Adjust the acc pump stroke – should be 3/16” between late and pin..bend the rod to adjust but be sure to remove from the plastic linkage so you don’t break it. Also, careful with the metal rod retainers, I lost a rod when the one I had loosened up and the rod fell off during a ride. You should see a good stram of fuel coming out when you press throttle

The power valve typically gets gummed up (under the small plug in the carb top half). Check the spring loaded rod under this area for free movement. No need to disassemble the rod and small fiber washers ( they are not avail so don’t ruin them) it only moves a small amount as it is vacuum actuated. symptom of bad PV is no power under load

The 63 has a hollow idle mixture screw that has no specific number of turns out. Could be anywhere from 3 + turns out…later have a more normal solid pointed screw that is typically 1 ½ turns out.


Last, confirm all the carb adjustments are to spec, any variation affects all other parts and they are finicky.

I agree with SSgt, check Mike’s carb site, he has a wealth of info on the 1100. Carburetor-parts.com. He has pretty much everything you need to rebuild the carb. The rebuild sheet is available on the site to download and has the procedure and correct specs.

Chris