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how governor works on 1977 f700 w/ 391

 
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:52 PM
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how governor works on 1977 f700 w/ 391

Looking for some info on how the governor works on a 1977 f700 with a 391 engine 5 speed w/ 2 speed axle firetruck. Engine runs smooth at low speed but starts to stutter and surge especially pulling hill. I tried to pinch off the line from the carb to the distributor, but it barely ran at all. This thing weighs about 25000 pounds loaded. I would prefer to to eliminate the governor operation all together, as I am the only driver and can control myself. The carb is a 4150g. it has been rebuilt. Also I would like to replace the carb with something else. Holley and I don't get along, any suggestions on a carb? What is necessary to do away with governor at that point. Feed back appreciated Thanks.........
 
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Old 05-06-2015, 03:14 AM
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big job has a great reputation on FTE.big job has a great reputation on FTE.big job has a great reputation on FTE.big job has a great reputation on FTE.big job has a great reputation on FTE.
First off you can't pinch the lines or you wont move at all. All you can do
to disable it is to remove the line pass side of the carb. You will now feel
vacuum at this fitting. If you put your finger on this fitting the engine will
only idle (thats how it works). You say it stutters & surges? I bet there
is nothing wrong with the governor, I bet its got a blown power valve.
I would get a kit from napa now a days you need deep pockets for a
new carb. Blown power valves were common at that time, Holley now
corrected that (blow proof). This set up which you have, needs a lot of
warm up, usually caused with a cold engine "if it coughs (backfires through
carb) there goes the power valve 'every time'... If you really wish another,
4160 Holley, a Ford, Edelbroc, Auto Lite all have the same bolt pattern,
only thing is, its hard to find one with manual choke so you have to
settle for electric choke which is ok. Gov operation: In the distributor
there is a centrifugal piston thats spring loaded set to a specific RPM>
on the driver side on dist, a breather hose that goes into the air cleaner,
the fitting has a square (for a wrench) remove now ya got to turn over the
engine until gov piston comes in view- with an allen wrench turn the
set screw clockwise to increase & counter clockwise to decrease RPMs.
Mine are set to 3,000 rpms. thats fast enough. Holleys are so simple
a child can rebuild one. hope this helps
sam

by the way the "G" means a governor carb. I too am looking for a new one NONE yet on the planet!!!!!
 
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:00 PM
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Governor issue

I pulled the line off on the passenger side. The truck sounded different right off the bat. Throttle response was good. During the test drive it pulled right up to 3500 rpm in 3rd pulling a grade. I did not check to see what happens if I plug the outlet on the carb where the line came off. Would it it stay at idle only? What about the vacuum leak. I had replaced the power valve with the blow pruff one during the rebuild. Thsnks for your input.


Also how do I insert a profile picture?
 
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Old 05-07-2015, 02:46 AM
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Correct to plug that fitting it would only idle. What I would do is to run "that" fitting
with a hose right into the air cleaner. (that is the other line comming out of the
dist.) what if you hook it all back up and see? Being my guess as a fire truck the
gov. was turned down a little. Increasing the gov. is a two people job, one nicking
the starter while you with a flashlight looking in the dist. for the adj. allen screw..
sam
 
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:56 PM
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Thanks for that reply. I solved the problem. I put an Edelbrock on it. Starts every time with out hesitation. Disconnected the governor lines. Now I wish I could get rid of the old distributor but the tachs wont work . It has two of them. I may get two electrics. Now I would like to find a buyer for the old carb. It's been rebuilt. Thanks
 
 
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