New (to me) 1981 Econoline
#1
New (to me) 1981 Econoline
First of all, HI.
I recently bought a 1981 Ford Econoline van. It's the short one. I6 4.9L engine, single carb, and four speed manual trans (on the floor). Anyway, I want to start by doing all the basics. Plugs, wires, dist. cap, air and oil filters, belts, as well as gear oil change in the trans and diff.
I'm wondering which gear oil to use in the trans and diff, and, if I can use the same for both.
Also, any recommendations anyone has on what to use (brands, etc.) or other things to look out for, I would appreciate it. I've dealt with VW all my life, but this is my first Ford. A factory manual will be forthcoming, but I won't have it yet when I set in to do this initial stuff. Thanks.
I recently bought a 1981 Ford Econoline van. It's the short one. I6 4.9L engine, single carb, and four speed manual trans (on the floor). Anyway, I want to start by doing all the basics. Plugs, wires, dist. cap, air and oil filters, belts, as well as gear oil change in the trans and diff.
I'm wondering which gear oil to use in the trans and diff, and, if I can use the same for both.
Also, any recommendations anyone has on what to use (brands, etc.) or other things to look out for, I would appreciate it. I've dealt with VW all my life, but this is my first Ford. A factory manual will be forthcoming, but I won't have it yet when I set in to do this initial stuff. Thanks.
#3
I've been doing a ton of maintenance on mine. I've got a three on the tree and standard length body though.
I would recommend greasing all the zerks on the drive shaft and steering components. It will help take a lot of the slop out.
How much side to side play do your clutch and brake pedals have? I had to replace the plastic bushings on mine when I got it.
As far as setting the distributor timing and idle mixture, you will want to connect a vacuum gauge to one of the plugged ports below the carb. Basically advance the timing till the gauge stops climbing and back it off a bit. Same with the fuel mixture.
The 300 doesn't mind idling low and sounds pretty cool, but I turned up the idle speed a bit so that my headlights wouldn't dim when braking.
If you have any questions, let me know.
I would recommend greasing all the zerks on the drive shaft and steering components. It will help take a lot of the slop out.
How much side to side play do your clutch and brake pedals have? I had to replace the plastic bushings on mine when I got it.
As far as setting the distributor timing and idle mixture, you will want to connect a vacuum gauge to one of the plugged ports below the carb. Basically advance the timing till the gauge stops climbing and back it off a bit. Same with the fuel mixture.
The 300 doesn't mind idling low and sounds pretty cool, but I turned up the idle speed a bit so that my headlights wouldn't dim when braking.
If you have any questions, let me know.
#4
Helpful, thanks. The zurks on are the list. I had planned to get into it this weekend, however, the other night it wouldn't start, just cranked. So, that's the new first priority.
People are telling me fuel filter. Earlier in the day, I ran it out of fuel on the way to the gas station. It died a few times on the way, but I made it. Filled it up, and it started fine. Drove around a while before going to work. I was sitting in the parking lot with the engine idling, and out of nowhere the idle got real rough. Shut if off, waited a minute, and cranked it over. Started right up. Shut it off and went to work. 12 hours later came out to leave, and it wouldn't start. I'm being told something probably got sucked in and jammed the filter when I ran it out of gas.
Going to pick up all the parts today, so we'll see if a fuel filter does it.
As far as play in the pedals, I will check it out. But, I haven't noticed any.
People are telling me fuel filter. Earlier in the day, I ran it out of fuel on the way to the gas station. It died a few times on the way, but I made it. Filled it up, and it started fine. Drove around a while before going to work. I was sitting in the parking lot with the engine idling, and out of nowhere the idle got real rough. Shut if off, waited a minute, and cranked it over. Started right up. Shut it off and went to work. 12 hours later came out to leave, and it wouldn't start. I'm being told something probably got sucked in and jammed the filter when I ran it out of gas.
Going to pick up all the parts today, so we'll see if a fuel filter does it.
As far as play in the pedals, I will check it out. But, I haven't noticed any.
#5
I would pull the doghouse cover off, pull the closest spark plug cable off, and connect an extra plug to it. Crank the engine over while holding the plug to the block. It should spark.
Also, you can try spraying just a squirt of starter fluid in the intake. It should fire a few times. If not, I would check the fuel filter and add some carb cleaner additive to your tank.
Also, you can try spraying just a squirt of starter fluid in the intake. It should fire a few times. If not, I would check the fuel filter and add some carb cleaner additive to your tank.
#6
Well, hell. Went on down to NAPA and gathered everything up. Plugs, cap, rotor, wire set, oil, air, and fuel filters, 2 out of 3 belts, and some buss fuses. Cost me $140! Man, if you were VW shopping you'd be close to $250 with that list!
Anyway, took me a while to figure out that the fuel filter was on the carb. After that I did the air filter. Again, it took me a little to figure it out. The old air filter was F-ed completely, so I was happy to be changing it. Then I did cap, rotor, plugs, and wires.
Hooked up the jumpers to the Cabriolet, and let the battery charge a while.
Wham-o! Fired up on the second crank, and was idling WAY high. Un-hooked the cables, and goosed the gas pedal, it settled right down. So far, so good.
No fluid changes yet, but I figure oil change tomorrow.
Anyway, took me a while to figure out that the fuel filter was on the carb. After that I did the air filter. Again, it took me a little to figure it out. The old air filter was F-ed completely, so I was happy to be changing it. Then I did cap, rotor, plugs, and wires.
Hooked up the jumpers to the Cabriolet, and let the battery charge a while.
Wham-o! Fired up on the second crank, and was idling WAY high. Un-hooked the cables, and goosed the gas pedal, it settled right down. So far, so good.
No fluid changes yet, but I figure oil change tomorrow.
#7
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#8
Nice. If you put the throttle to the floor before you crank it, you will set the automatic choke. Blip the throttle to turn it off. You won't need to use it when it's warm.
Previous owner removed all the emissions and hoses on mine. Most of my driving is under 20 mile trips, so I wedged the flapper door on the intake shut so that it always draws warm air from around the exhaust. I also set the intake manifold heater valve to always be open. Those two things help get the engine up to operating temperature quickly and gives me better driveability and gas mileage.
Previous owner removed all the emissions and hoses on mine. Most of my driving is under 20 mile trips, so I wedged the flapper door on the intake shut so that it always draws warm air from around the exhaust. I also set the intake manifold heater valve to always be open. Those two things help get the engine up to operating temperature quickly and gives me better driveability and gas mileage.
#9
lots of things on these old fords are li ke that. You always have to check tags.
I got the "birth certificate" for my 1982 f150 from FORD I emailed ford of Canada with my vin and they mailed me out a copy of all the original info . Now you have to be sure that your driveline and other major parts are still original.
#13
Oh, Goody----TWO newbies bickering! It's all good though...........
One way to get another thread noticed is occasionally bumping it back to the top by adding your own reply. Given how this board works it might be the best way to eventually attract attention and a helpful reply.
Also look at the other sub-forums if there are system problems (engine, transmission, electrical etc etc). Just because an issue is found on an E-Series doesn't mean its solution can't be solved in a general sense.
One way to get another thread noticed is occasionally bumping it back to the top by adding your own reply. Given how this board works it might be the best way to eventually attract attention and a helpful reply.
Also look at the other sub-forums if there are system problems (engine, transmission, electrical etc etc). Just because an issue is found on an E-Series doesn't mean its solution can't be solved in a general sense.
#15
How did you find them? I never thought about contacting Ford for the original information, but that is a great idea! I'll have to do that since I'm wondering about a few things myself on my 86 E-350