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Backing plate gone, can I remove the guts?

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Old 04-15-2015, 08:39 PM
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Backing plate gone, can I remove the guts?

So on my 2003 F250 SCLB 4x4, I I was driving 70 or 80 miles to Huron in Ohio, to pick up a boat for a buddy with my truck. On the way up I heard a new clattering noise coming from the suspension or drive train, and we couldn't figure out what it was. After picking up the boat and coming back home without a problem, I looked under the truck and couldn't see any U-joints loose, But I saw that my right rear backing plate was disintegrated and gone. I took the truck to the shop and they said that the noise I'm hearing is the guts of the emergency brake pads and pins bouncing around in there when I drive and that my rear wheel could lock up at any time. I asked how much to replace the backing plate and service the emergency brake cables, which it needs both rear cables, the left and the right. The estimate for the cheapest parts he could find along with labor and replacing the emergency brake cables and shoes was $689! Then he said that he could also just charge me labor and remove the guts of the emergency brake, and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I would not have an emergency brake anymore. So for about $150, I could just have him remove the stuff and save about $450... That even seems high for labor just to pull the wheel off and take the emergency brake stuff off?? What would you guys do, and how in the heck can I save money on this job???
 
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:19 PM
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Save money by doing it yourself. Contact some wrecking yards and get the parts used. Those parts rarely wear out so they can be in good used condition at half of the new price.
 
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Old 04-16-2015, 03:35 AM
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If you are going to do the work your self you could give
Ed at FICM repair a call and have him see what the parts
will cost. (real Ford parts) He can beat the pants off most
if not all the online sellers and you still get the Ford warrantee.
He also has nice shipping prices.

FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts

Sean
 
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Old 04-16-2015, 05:16 AM
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If possible I would try the junk yard route too. It is not so difficult of a job and there are lots videos out now to help with many repairs.
 
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Old 04-16-2015, 06:41 AM
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Personnally, (and I'm a cheap b@st@rd), I would do the work myself, pull the service brakes, and rotor, empty the parking brake of all the broken junk, disconnect the cable at the wheel, put it all back together. Repeat on other side.

If you use the parking brake so infrequently that it rots out just sitting there, then you probably don't really need it.. I almost never use mine for anything. I make it move every so often just to keep it from locking up, but I don't use it for holding the vehicle. If you ever sell the vehicle, put the money in then, You'll probably do brakes on it again before you sell it. I do agree on other points made, Junk yard for parking brake hard parts is the way to go..

Just my .02. Cost, 0$.....
 
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:41 AM
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I had the same thing happen to my 08. There is a good write up on FTE on replacing the parking brakes on our trucks. I have not done mine yet. The parts quote for local parts store was $125.00 each complete. Doing it is another story, as you need to pull the axle to mount the new plate.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
 
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Old 04-16-2015, 01:08 PM
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Wow. Great info from you all. It's true I do not use the emergency break, but I've only owned it for a year, and I love it. It is a beast of a truck and it is a wood hauler and will not even squat when I load that thing as high as I can with firewood. It is my first Ford and it is my first truck, and I am sold on super duty trucks after this one goes. I will buy a newer nicer super duty when that time comes. I have already put Fender Flares and wheelwell liners on this want to cover up the cancerous fender lips, And it looks great. I think what I will do is let him take the guts out on Monday at the shop, and then when I get enough money just go have the entire parking brake system serviced and replaced. Thanks for all the great advice. Every night before I go to bed I lay down and read all of the entries on this site for about two hours and learn all kinds of stuff about my truck. And not to hijack my own thread, but some of the mileage numbers that some of the people of put out there on the site are almost unbelievable. I get anywhere from 11 1/2 to 13 1/2 mpg regardless of whether it is in city or highway and whether I am towing or hauling anything. Even with the mileage that I get with fuel, I drive this truck everywhere I get a chance to because I love driving it better than my envoy!
 
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Old 04-17-2015, 06:30 AM
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I still say do it yourself, keep the $150 in labor money to start your savings toward a complete job. It's not hard. A cheap socket set and a breaker bar, your tire iron from under the hood, and your stock scissor jack are all that is required. I don't hessitate to buy tools, they are an investment, not a cost...
 
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Old 04-17-2015, 03:08 PM
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I am working on the rear brake rotor right now. How do I remove the rotor. I took the wheel off and the brake caliper and the brake caliper bracket. But the rotor is kind of on there pretty tight I have been hitting it with a hammer and it has not come off yet is there anything holding it on?
 
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Old 04-17-2015, 03:21 PM
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WD40, PB plaster, BFh (Big...Hammer.


I spray all around the lug nuts and hub.


Then I take a brass punch and hit all around the surface area between the studs.


It usually comes off after that.
 
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Old 04-17-2015, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Don Naslund
Save money by doing it yourself. Contact some wrecking yards and get the parts used. Those parts rarely wear out so they can be in good used condition at half of the new price.
Backing plates and cables are consumable items. Cables sieze up and rust. Backing plates rust out quickly.

It would be stupid to go to a junkyard and try and put used junk on that is probably half rusted out already. New Dorman backing plates are not expensive. A hardware kit, shoes and cables are not that expensive either.
 
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Old 04-17-2015, 07:20 PM
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Got it off! Several whacks with a Rubber mallet And it finally cracked loose. Unhook the emergency brake cable in the back and then had to pry the shoes apart to get the springs to come apart. Then I hooked up the emergency brake cable to that little metal piece with the rubber grommet that seals the drum area from water. So all of the guts are gone out of the right rear emergency brake parts. So now all I have to do is gather up all the new parts basically probably off of eBay And repair my emergency brake back to normal and new. At least I can drive the truck now without all of that clattering noise, but I won't have an emergency brake. And like one of the previous posters said, I don't use the emergency break anyway since I've had the truck. Thanks for all of the help.
 
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Old 04-17-2015, 07:51 PM
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Chalk blocks....carry a couple. You can always put them in front and behind a wheel if you park where you would use a E-brake
 
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Old 04-17-2015, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 03f250superduty5.4
Got it off! Several whacks with a Rubber mallet And it finally cracked loose. Unhook the emergency brake cable in the back and then had to pry the shoes apart to get the springs to come apart. Then I hooked up the emergency brake cable to that little metal piece with the rubber grommet that seals the drum area from water. So all of the guts are gone out of the right rear emergency brake parts. So now all I have to do is gather up all the new parts basically probably off of eBay And repair my emergency brake back to normal and new. At least I can drive the truck now without all of that clattering noise, but I won't have an emergency brake. And like one of the previous posters said, I don't use the emergency break anyway since I've had the truck. Thanks for all of the help.

Good job!! i knew you could do it!!!
 
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Old 04-17-2015, 08:09 PM
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I am learning a lot from this site. Indeed.
 


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