So I know over the years this has been asked probably more times then the amount stars in the universe can be counted. But here I go. I want to know what kind of analog setups are out their on these trucks that help the mpg's. I do not want anything digital. No chips, no programmers, just bolt on. I have heard cat deletes work, MBRP mufflers work, going 4 inch on the exhaust pipe works. I also do not want something that is going to be too loud. I have heard these trucks with straight piped, cat deletes. Although they do sound amazing and like screaming jets, that just not something I want. Any ideas or tips, ya'll? Thanks for patience in advance.

 

Being that these are not 15 year old dodges your options are limited. Keep the tires up to proper psi, synthetic fluids in diff's,transfer case. You can have the intake and heads ported if you want to spend 3k or better by the time you buy gaskets,fluids,studs,pay someone to do the work,etc. Intake elbows and aftermarket CAC tubes and intercooler will help the engine flow better. Of course all of this only helps if you keep your right foot out of it. What kind of gain are you after? Even digital as you call them tuners and chips rarely get you better mpg by more than .5-1 mpg.

 

Well, I think right now on the highway I believe I am getting 15.5 mpg with a leveling kit I have on this truck. That's what my lie-o-meter states. Its 4dr long bed. I just fillled it completely up and will hand calculate on my next fill up. Just didn't know what was out there for least cost best gain scenarios. Is the exhaust a good way to go?

 

Item in Red item is useless for accuracy

Item in Blue is the best and most accurate.

Unloading all the extra junk that you can will also bring the MPGs up.
Also constant speeds and not stopping and starting will help the most.

On the avargae 8,000 of truck takes a bit of Umph to get moving from a stop.
Also when you see a red light take you food off the peddle and roll.
Most all the things I have talked about are personal habit things. Hard to change
with out a little work and thought on your part.

BTW I have this app I use on my iPhone that is called "Roadtrip" there is a free one
and a pay one. The pay one will track more things and also give you reminders on
service that is due. All this along with MPG calculations and GPS tagging of your
filling and service locations. That you can export and then put on a google map.




Sean

 

Sweet. I will take a look at that app. Thanks for the info.

 

These trucks are controlled by computers, garbage in, garbage out. Nothing bolt on is going to help bad programming. Ford programming priority is for emissions not power or mpg. Simplest fix is to send the ficm to Ed and add Atlas 40.

 

Not to hijack here, but where does one draw the line between the Atlas 40 and the 80?

Wouldn't anything the 40 does be done better by the 80 without working it as hard?

Just thinking back of the Top Gear Prius vs. M5.

 

Nothing bolt on, esp. an intake, is going to do much but lighten your wallet. Your driving around in an 8,000 lb. brick. If the mileage is really concerning you that much you'd be money ahead to get a back up car for daily errands and use the truck when needed.

 

Atlas 80 will run the egt's up if you try to tow with it, 40 gives a good balance.

 

As many people have said on here you can't defy physics. If you start and stop 8000 lbs your going to get crappy fuel mileage. Towing a huge wind sail behind you I.e. A travel trailer even on level ground your going to get crappy fuel mileage. The only time I worry about it is when it changes from normal. If you normally get x mileage than it drops something is wrong and needs to be fixed. Although some guys on here seems to get horrible mileage from their trucks 13-14 mpg but I don't know if they're lifted(drag) geared differently or what but if that's your normal mileage you really should be concerned when it changes. If you buy a stock 6.0 used and not lifted or huge tires and not towing and get really poor mileage than something's probably wrong. From what I've read about 17 to 18 at normal or what I consider normal speeds 70-75 usually closer to 70 is about what these will do. If you can drive 55-60 you probably can get closer to 20. I have driven about 80-85 for extended periods and just that difference dropped my mileage to 14-15. Pushing a brick thru the air really fast requires a lot of energy

 

Just for perspective--55mph slight incline 10lbs of boost 1850rpm 312hpr can't recall the gph but it was pretty high. Best thing you can do is proper driving habits and maintenance. Try not to idle alot and not take short trips. In the winter my mpg is aweful due to warm up (and the winter fuel) When it's warm out I've had times where I got 20mpg but my norm is closer to 18mpg (hand calculated)

2006 F350 4X4 Mishi 200° tstat, IPR EGR delete/up-pipe

 

If there was a magic fix for MPG, everyone would be doing it....

....oh wait, everyone gets a FICM tune. That's the only thing that consistently moves the needle.

 

Stock running empty going up and down I-5 from Tacoma
to LA I tend to see about 21.5MPG until I hit the Grapevine hill.
Then it drops like a rock. Too much stop and stop after you crest.
But that is Southern California traffic for you.


Sean


BTW Stock tune with EGR ON the first time.

 

I understand how much these trucks weigh, and MPG's isnt a huge concern for me, but with that being said, I am still going to try and make a good effort not to worsen the situation.

I just bought this and it came with brand new tires, that are not really highway radials, but not swampers either. Its those Toyo's with tire tread extending onto the sidewall, so I know that is one aspect I can change when I need to buy new tires, is to get highway radials.

Also, no one has mentioned anything about how much effect changing the exhaust would be. going from stock 3" to 4". And what the advantages of an MBRP setup is.

 

If your looking at cost vrs. savings, your gonna have to have that truck for a helluva long time in my op.