Running a new Edelbrock 4-v intake and Eddy 4-V carb with electric choke.
I can adjust the idle to 1k rpm and it will say there for hours....
screw down the idle to 750, and the smoothness slowly goes away and will stall after about 10 minutes if left to just idle.
Vac leak (only noticeable at 750)?

Tried the needles, turn in till stumble and back out too.

 

you could rule out vaccume leak if you can turn down the idle but we need to know more about your engine and what size of eddie is it.

 

eddie says to start at 1.5 turns out and adjust from there witha vacumme gauge but you can just ear tune it once it warms up though. have you done much driving around town with it to get it really warmed up?

 

Believe it's a 1460 carb brand new.....351 no oil or water leaks around the intake, sprayed around the intake and carb base with carb cleaner, no "revving" while spraying.

 

I think a 750 CFM carb. is too much for a 351 to begin with..

 

Ron may be dyslexic. It is probably a 1406, which is the economy-tuned 600 CFM version.

It sounds like it is running very lean. I would do as was suggested - adjust the idle mix, keeping the screws in sync, until you get the best idle. However, if it is lean like I suspect you'll have to lower the idle speed with the stop screw as you adjust. Once you have best idle, regardless of how far out the screws are then set the idle speed to your liking.

But, if you can't get it to idle well with the screws all the way out you do have a vacuum leak. Possibly a hose left off? Or the carb's base gasket is bad - you did use the little plate Edelbrock sent with 2 gaskets - right?

 

Once again you are correct Gary It's the 1406, 600 CFM carb.
I do not recall a base plate and two gaskets, It came with one intake gasket....

 

The carb comes with one gasket, but the Eddy Performer intakes I've seen came with two gaskets and a extra plate that goes between them. That's because the mounting flange on the intake is quite narrow and they wanted to spread the load. But, maybe yours doesn't need that?

 

I bought one recently and it did not come with what your describing but maybe it something jegs doesnt send out with it. make sure the back plug for auto trans kickdown is either all the way in or plug right I had to put rtv

one time i had a PCV valve go bad and had a huge air leak through there. I would just go ahead and check all the caps and hoses for leaks. Its kinda nasty but by taking them off and sucking on them like a straw to see if it holds pressure by having your thumb at the other end works well and is easy just brush your teeth after lol

 

What cam are you running? If you are running a "lopey" high-duration cam, it will have poor vacuum characteristics and can cause what you are describing.

Gary is absolutely right. And here is the adapter plate he is talking about:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2732

I had to use one of these on my own truck. If you need this plate and do not have it, your engine will have a massive vacuum leak and won't ever run right.

Since you are running an Edelbrock carburetor on an Edelbrock intake, you may not need the adapter plate?

 

I think we're on to something here. Just checked and the carb is tight to the intake, but if I spray starter fluid on the rear of the carb/intake, it stumbles... pour it on and will stall.
I don't have the 2-gasket/plate set up, Didn't come with one.
Maybe Eddy will send the kit out as a freebie, since I fought the intake and carb about 5 months ago?

 

I'm not sure that all Performers use that plate, but I know the ones for the 335 engines do - even with an Eddy carb.

 

OK so I got the insulator gasket, but during install I tilted the carb and gas was flowing out the valve on top the front-left, is this OK? or is something messed up.

To get it to run smooth, the needles are so for out, there is no spring tension.
Turn them in some it goes down to 18" and stumbles.

But leaving it needles out (where smooth) I can not back down the idle adjustment.
With the idle screw out so it is not touching the stop, the revs are at 1200 rpm.
puzzling

 

You probably need to recheck the timing setting. Advanced timing will cause high idle speeds.
Also are you running manifold vacuum to the distributor, if yes, then try ported vacuum (full manifold vacuum at idle on the distributor will advance timing and make the idle speed higher)

 

Ron - Remind me what carb? (You need that in your sig.) I don't think the gas thing is a problem, but I'm trying to remember where it is coming from.

The idle screws being that far out say you still have a vacuum leak and you have to compensate by giving it all the gas the idle circuit can provide. So, you need to find the vacuum leak. Do you have a gasket above an below the new spacer? Did you place them on the intake and carb and ensure they won't have leaks?