I don't get that concern. It can only stretch so far until it's fully extended. At that point, it's pulling the pin. If the trailer leaves the truck, that's going to happen quick.

 

The argument is that if the breakaway cable is longer than the safety chains (and connected in the same general vicinity as the chains), you could drag the trailer on the safety chains without actually pulling the pin on the breakaway switch.

 

That's some interesting logic. I think if it's dragging by the chains, then friction of the hitch on the tar is slowing it down along with the truck braking as well. Plus the trailer brakes getting signal from the truck with the umbilical still connected. That said, every standard break away cable I've ever had has been longer than the chains including the one I just swapped. My take on a break away system always was, it's activated when the trailer is no longer connected to the truck at all. I guess I could be confused as usual though... LOL

 

That was my take on it as well Rodney. One would hope that the trailer brakes would still function with the truck brakes. I just happened to read the owner's manual with the new G/N and saw their recommendations for setting it up, and that got me curious enough to look at some YouTube videos. I'm not concerned, but wanted to head that argument off before the cable police showed up with the weight police. They also don't want you to connect the breakaway on the hitch of the TV either because if the hitch falls off, it takes the breakaway with it. One could "what if" themselves to the point of never leaving the driveway if they really wanted to.

 

A Country Boy Can Survive...

 

And THRIVE!!!

 

Tyler looks really really good
We are happy with ours in our f150 after a year. Much happier with the durability of the katzkin vs the factory leather in my lariat.

 

Looks awesome Tyler!

$1200 for a shop to do that? Jeez! That's a 4 hour job for a decent shop...no way they should charge near that. Had you lived closer, I would have helped...I worked my way through college in an upholstery shop. Love the work!

 

Can't starve us out and you can't make us run.

 

I put a D-ring near the tailgate on the deck for the breakaway cable to clip to.

 

For the bumper pull trailers, I hook mine to the receiver in the same holes as the chains. If my receiver ever falls off, I think I have way bigger problems to worry about than the breakaway brakes not coming on. For the G/N though, I suppose I could order two more of the puck mounted chain things from Reese to connect the breakaway in. I use the rear holes on mine for the safety chains, and hook the breakaway through the left one - just because that's what side of the hitch I'm on for locking the hitch closed and plugging in the electrical. I really don't want 4 of the chain pucks though.

 

Regarding the connection of the breakaway cable, I started a discussion on that a few months ago. It can be found here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ty-chains.html

I can't say that we came to any definitive conclusion, but it was an interesting discussion.

 

I don't have much difference in length between the chains, the breakaway cable, or the 7 pin wiring. I keep everything off of the ground, and leave enough slack for full turns to either side.
As I said before, I never even gave it much attention before, as I figured the breakaway was there only for the instance where the chain breaks. When looking into it after reading about setting up the G/N (after I towed my new trailer home), that was when I read several comments and even saw some stuff on YouTube about NOT using the coiled cables. Well, they can kiss my hiney, because I have coiled on all three of my bumper pulls, and will have one very soon on the G/N. It is probably more important to make sure the 7-pin wiring is slightly longer than the safety chains, so that with the chains tight after a failed hitch, the trailer still has electrical signal from the tow vehicle.

 

Cause we're them ol' boys raised on shotguns...

As to the cable, folks should pay more attention to if the switch has rusted open than connection placement or cable length. When MorRyde did my IS/disc changeover, they pulled the pin to test the brakes and nothing happened. Said my switch was long shot based on amount of corrosion inside. Ah well. Anyways guys, check your switch from time to time...

I do have a curly cable on the 5ver too. Early in ownership that when it was almost new, the standard one would get caught under the corner of my hitch in tight corners and pull the pin. Man, was that a surprise... having the trailer drag you to a stop in an intersection. I zip tied it shorter but ordered a curly one shortly after. I hook it to my hitch and like Doug, if my 5th hitch breaks out of my bed, I've got bigger problems. This is why I also hook my bumper pull cables to my receiver hitch.

On last thing to note on the curled cables. Many trailer manufacturers are supplying them from the factory now. My BriMar dump came with one. I'm sure if there was even a HINT of a liability concern, that wouldn't happen...

 

My Excursion has a loop in the bumper right above the hitch receiver to hook up the breakaway cable. Doug, not sure about your much newer truck, but seems like it should be there.