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  #16096  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:27 AM
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Scrape and sand then wash. Most guys do one or the other. I do both.
 
  #16097  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:33 AM
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Yeah, I know guys that do one or the other.

My house got roofed a couple years back and even though the job looks good, the boneheads used too long of roofing nails, so where the eves overhang the nails stick through. The underside of the eves needs painting again, and scraping is nearly impossible with the nails. I think I'll have no choice but to pressure wash. Even painting smoothly is going to be very difficult with all the nails. What do you think of using a paint sprayer? Have you ever done it?
 
  #16098  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:40 AM
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I never spray. It's just not the same job. Yes, you'll get drips from the nails. Nothing you can do about that. Just don't look up as your climbing down the ladder... As for prep, I've sanded and scraped around nails in eves just as you describe. It's time consuming but doable. If the peeling is brittle enough, a pressure washer might do you right there in removing the loose stuff. It can't hurt to try before going to hand to hand combat.
 
  #16099  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat View Post
Mine is a Pressure Pro Eagle Series direct drive 3 GPM 2700 PSI, Honda GX motor, and a CAT pump on an aluminum frame. I've never wanted for more in my limited use.
That is perfect for the job at hand.
Thatís about the line where you would need to make serious changes in weight and HP.,
in order to do more cleaning units.
My shop washer is 7.5 hp electric, you donít want to move it far.
 
  #16100  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:48 AM
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In 2002 I painted (brush and roller) three sides of the house using the premium paint from Lowe's. We paid to have it repainted this year using Sherwin WIlliams. The old paint still looked really good in most places. Where it looked terrible is on the fourth side of the house where I paid someone to do it. It was too tall for me to do it so I paid the man. I don't know what the painter did but the paint on the underside of the boards was peeling badly. It killed me to pay as much as we did to have someone paint the house. But it gone done a lot faster and I didn't have the opportunity to fall of any ladders.
 
  #16101  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:49 AM
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Thanks for that advice. I'll try doing it the hard (but better) way first. I hate painting - no patience!
 
  #16102  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:58 AM
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I am so glad our house doesn't have a drop of paint on the outside. I'm with you Tyler...no patience for paint!
 
  #16103  
Old 09-11-2018, 09:27 AM
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It would be nice to have a brick house. My house in Houston was all brick. But the eaves, fascia and trim still needed to be cleaned/painted.
 
  #16104  
Old 09-11-2018, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
It would be nice to have a brick house. My house in Houston was all brick. But the eaves, fascia and trim still needed to be cleaned/painted.
Ours is brick with aluminum fascia/soffit/trim. The only maintenance is cleaning the mildew (or whatever that black crap is) off the gutters and fascia.
 
  #16105  
Old 09-11-2018, 06:04 PM
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I think you should just kill two birds with one stone, and use the pressure washer to apply the paint!😜
 
  #16106  
Old 09-11-2018, 07:12 PM
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I still do my house and sidewalks with a lowly 1600 psi Generac gas job. Relatively harmless but it gets the job done. I got it for free 10 years ago and it's still going. Our entire house is brick, vinyl, or aluminum and pretty much maintenance free save for pressure washing the algae (Guess that's what it is?) off once a year. The trim around the garage door is the only thing that isn't capped, and I painted it good 10 years ago and it's still holding up.

Got the new color monitor from TST and have it all set up. Got a hell of a run around and robbed to get my propane tank for the camper filled this past weekend. Normal place is $16. But they were closed. Local ACE used to fill but they don't anymore. Went to a local gas station that fills.............$30! Hell it only cost me $28 at Lake George RV park and they delivered it back to me!

New rubber on the truck Saturday morning and I'll be ready to head for Watkins Glen on the 20th! Decided to stay with stock size Cooper Discoverer AT3LT's over the upsize Toyos. Biggest reason is I still want OWL over blackwall. Silly, but I just can't let it go. Second reason is I just can't justify buying 7 tires, plus the rear mudflaps are really close to tires already, and the taller truck would mean I'd need to buck up on another hitch shank for the dump trailer. Just not worth the hassle and cost.
 
  #16107  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:53 PM
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All the parts to convert my stove top igniter came in this week so I started working on that today. The old igniter was a noisy SOB that rarely worked. Once I dug into it I realized there was a single igniter for the three burners. For it to work the gas from the burner had to travel down a tube to the center of the stove where the single igniter was located. The new setup will have an igniter at each burner. I had to fabricate brackets to hold each igniter. The storage lot has a dumpster for scrap metal. I found a piece of steel I could bend and drill into and used that for the brackets. Initial testing was successful. I'm not done yet so no pictures until then.
 
  #16108  
Old 09-11-2018, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
All the parts to convert my stove top igniter came in this week so I started working on that today. The old igniter was a noisy SOB that rarely worked. Once I dug into it I realized there was a single igniter for the three burners. For it to work the gas from the burner had to travel down a tube to the center of the stove where the single igniter was located. The new setup will have an igniter at each burner. I had to fabricate brackets to hold each igniter. The storage lot has a dumpster for scrap metal. I found a piece of steel I could bend and drill into and used that for the brackets. Initial testing was successful. I'm not done yet so no pictures until then.

Don't drill a hole in your finger.........

 
  #16109  
Old 09-11-2018, 11:53 PM
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I need a drill bit slightly larger than 3/4" to drill a hole for the new sparker ****/control unit. The closest I have is 23/32".
 
  #16110  
Old 09-12-2018, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
I need a drill bit slightly larger than 3/4" to drill a hole for the new sparker ****/control unit. The closest I have is 23/32".
Wiggle the drill bit around in the hole..... You can make it a wee bit larger.
 

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