How much power is too much
#1
How much power is too much
I have a 1949 F1 and it has a front clip out of a Chevy Nova. So everything from the trans forward is all Chevy Nova frame. It currently has a 302 but it is an exhausted motor so I bought a 351w that I am going to put in it. I am looking at the edlebrock top end kit that says it makes 400-418hp on the 351w. My question is, is this too much for the frame and truck? Any help would be appreciated!
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Hey 6String,
We've got a 1950 F1 with a 351W & the 400HP Edelbrock top end kit.
I'm not sure what type of build you are doing. If you are building a nice cruiser 400HP is overkill. We built up the brakes to improve stopping - we've got 4 wheel disc brakes with a dual chamber master cylinder.
If I had it to do over I'd pass on the 400HP & just go with stock & some good heads. Most of our driving is just cruising - that's a pretty "Lopey" Cam for just street driving.
Good luck up there in Michigan.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
We've got a 1950 F1 with a 351W & the 400HP Edelbrock top end kit.
I'm not sure what type of build you are doing. If you are building a nice cruiser 400HP is overkill. We built up the brakes to improve stopping - we've got 4 wheel disc brakes with a dual chamber master cylinder.
If I had it to do over I'd pass on the 400HP & just go with stock & some good heads. Most of our driving is just cruising - that's a pretty "Lopey" Cam for just street driving.
Good luck up there in Michigan.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
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#8
I would say that the answer to; "Is this too much power for my frame?", and "How fast in 1/4 mile times?", will both be dependent on traction.
On normal sized street tires, stock torque converter, and posi rear, you won't hook up hard enough to cause any problems to the frame. This setup will also limit the 1/4 mile potential. I would think with that power to weight ratio on street tires, you would see mid to high 13 seconds, IMO.
Put a set of sticky slicks on, a high stall converter and posi rear. Then you will add all kinds of extra stress to the frame and everything else. That setup should yield high 12 second times, maybe even better, I would think.
Your frame rails can be boxed in for extra strength, easily (sort of), if needed. I don't know how your nova clip was grafted, so that of course, is an unknown variable. Pictures would help.
I have a camaro subframe under my F1, so I am familiar with what you have.
On normal sized street tires, stock torque converter, and posi rear, you won't hook up hard enough to cause any problems to the frame. This setup will also limit the 1/4 mile potential. I would think with that power to weight ratio on street tires, you would see mid to high 13 seconds, IMO.
Put a set of sticky slicks on, a high stall converter and posi rear. Then you will add all kinds of extra stress to the frame and everything else. That setup should yield high 12 second times, maybe even better, I would think.
Your frame rails can be boxed in for extra strength, easily (sort of), if needed. I don't know how your nova clip was grafted, so that of course, is an unknown variable. Pictures would help.
I have a camaro subframe under my F1, so I am familiar with what you have.
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#11
Hey 6 String,
Engine Choice:
We had a tired 289 in our's when we got it. It would have cost virtually the same to rebuild the 289 or move up to the stouter 351W. We moved up to the 351W. I chose to go with the rebuild kits from Edelbrock via Summit as they give you a nice well thought out "matched" set up with dyno'ed results. I like the engine - it runs strong - plenty of power for our truck.
Is it smooth & quiet? Not at idle. It sort of snorts & rocks - ready to get moving. It's fine at 2200 Rpm & above & it can cruise at 65mph - 70 mph all day.
Chassis Upgrades: We never planned to race our truck - mainly hauling stuff, Home Depot runs, 100 mile highway trips, Moving kids stuff around to apts, etc. We went with a Mustang II front end & an Explorer rear end & springs. Nothing super fancy.
I wouldn't be comfortable racing this set up. Too much power for the rear end I've got. It'd probably be ok straight line - but I wouldn't want to take a corner in it at speed. Lot's of creaking & groaning - It's a 60 year old truck with a strong power train and good brakes - I'm careful with it.
Summary:
I think I'd spend a lot of time and money on the chassis set up & rear end if I was planning to race this truck.
Good luck over there in Michigan!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
Engine Choice:
We had a tired 289 in our's when we got it. It would have cost virtually the same to rebuild the 289 or move up to the stouter 351W. We moved up to the 351W. I chose to go with the rebuild kits from Edelbrock via Summit as they give you a nice well thought out "matched" set up with dyno'ed results. I like the engine - it runs strong - plenty of power for our truck.
Is it smooth & quiet? Not at idle. It sort of snorts & rocks - ready to get moving. It's fine at 2200 Rpm & above & it can cruise at 65mph - 70 mph all day.
Chassis Upgrades: We never planned to race our truck - mainly hauling stuff, Home Depot runs, 100 mile highway trips, Moving kids stuff around to apts, etc. We went with a Mustang II front end & an Explorer rear end & springs. Nothing super fancy.
I wouldn't be comfortable racing this set up. Too much power for the rear end I've got. It'd probably be ok straight line - but I wouldn't want to take a corner in it at speed. Lot's of creaking & groaning - It's a 60 year old truck with a strong power train and good brakes - I'm careful with it.
Summary:
I think I'd spend a lot of time and money on the chassis set up & rear end if I was planning to race this truck.
Good luck over there in Michigan!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
#12
Hey 6 String,
Nice truck! I like your wheels - it looks very similar to our truck - we have side exit exhaust as well. We moved the gas tank out back under the bed to give us a little more cab room as well.
One thing I would recommend when getting your engine - be sure to use Case Hardened Push Rods if you go with one of those Edelbrock kits. We didn't & they were chewed up in under 1,000 miles (Ouch). I don't recall the rocker arms.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Nice truck! I like your wheels - it looks very similar to our truck - we have side exit exhaust as well. We moved the gas tank out back under the bed to give us a little more cab room as well.
One thing I would recommend when getting your engine - be sure to use Case Hardened Push Rods if you go with one of those Edelbrock kits. We didn't & they were chewed up in under 1,000 miles (Ouch). I don't recall the rocker arms.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#14
Ben, my last question for you is will my edlebrock 650cfm 4 barrel be good enough to push this motor?
What do you think about these pushrods
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9656
What do you think about these pushrods
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9656
#15
I'm confused. You seem to want things that are diametrically opposite. My suggestion is to first decide just exactly what you want your truck to be "when it grows up", it can't be all things. You say you want a low budget street truck, then you talk about stuffing the engine full of expensive go fast parts that will reduce the streetability, then want to economize on the carb?
AFA the frame strength: The frame is plenty "strong" enough (strength is a measurement of durability not suitability) if the frame graft was done with quality workmanship, that's the unknown here. You will have a difficult time putting down even 300 HP consistently to the ground at the dragstrip without extensive chassis/rear suspension work, set of racing slicks and a prepared track surface. A pickup truck is far from the ideal drag racing vehicle. A street vehicle will never make a good race car, a race car will never be pleasant to drive on the street. A race car will NEVER be economical! Trying to combine the two will be expensive and detrimental to both. If you just want to make a lot of tire smoke, scare people when it darts left and right, make a lot of noise, spend a lot of money, then you are headed in the right direction.
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE race cars, but have been around the block more than a couple times and am a realist.
AFA the frame strength: The frame is plenty "strong" enough (strength is a measurement of durability not suitability) if the frame graft was done with quality workmanship, that's the unknown here. You will have a difficult time putting down even 300 HP consistently to the ground at the dragstrip without extensive chassis/rear suspension work, set of racing slicks and a prepared track surface. A pickup truck is far from the ideal drag racing vehicle. A street vehicle will never make a good race car, a race car will never be pleasant to drive on the street. A race car will NEVER be economical! Trying to combine the two will be expensive and detrimental to both. If you just want to make a lot of tire smoke, scare people when it darts left and right, make a lot of noise, spend a lot of money, then you are headed in the right direction.
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE race cars, but have been around the block more than a couple times and am a realist.