Truck will start and run fine. If I run it for 30 minutes, shut it off, and go to restart, it will not crank. If I leave the key on and jump the two wires on the starter motor, it starts up. Something in the ignition switch side is preventing it.

 

I'll throw an answer out here since no one else has.

Yes. I would have to agree with your assumption. BUT, why does it do it only when HOT? Perhaps a connection issue? Let us know if you need additional help.

 

I don't know why but we've had a lot more problems with the second generation7.3 powerstroke but our 96 doesn't know how to quit our99 died blew up she ain't coming back our2000 the tranny went out two times in one year and for a reason noone knows it wouldn't start for three months might of just been the cold weather but it was plugged in the whole time

 

Solenoid on the starter going bad? Just a guess but it is close to the exhaust manifold. When you say the two wires are you referring to the two large terminals or the positive from the battery(large terminal) to the coil on the solenoid(small terminal). If it is cranking by jumping large to small then it is not your solenoid and probably what you already suspected.

 

Yes I put a screw driver across those two terminals on the starter.

 

Here are some tests which may assist you in determining the part that is causing you grief.

echo=on
KOEO (All Accessories OFF):
*Batteries with no load should be 12.6 VDC or > / Best performed following manufacturer charging and no less than one hour AFTER removing the charger.

Check the Alternator by using a DVOM. Ground (-) the DVOM to the Alternator Mounting Bolt. Place the Red Lead (+) on the Alternator B+ Post. Record the Voltage: ___. ___ VDC
Move the Red Lead (+) to Battery Positive (+) and Record Voltage: ___. ___ VDC

KOER:
Check the Alternator by using a DVOM. Ground (-) the DVOM to the Alternator Mounting Bolt. Place the Red Lead (+) on the Alternator B+ Post. Record the Voltage. You should be reading > 13 VDC but, < 15 VDC. : ___. ___ VDC
Move the Red Lead (+) to Battery Positive (+) and Record Voltage, you should be reading > 13 VDC but, < 15 VDC. : ___. ___ VDC
KOEO (All Accessories Off, Fuse #30 (30 AMP removed to prevent Glow Plug and IDM from Starting the Engine (7.3 DIT)) :

Starter Test:
#1 Place the Red Lead (+) to Battery Positive and (-) on Starter Case Bolt and Record Voltage: ___. ___ VDC
KOER (Cranking):

#2 Place the Red Lead (+) to STARTER connection and (-) to Starter Mounting Bolt and Record Voltage - while cranking. : ___. ___ VDC
Solenoid Test:

Test #1 Place the Red Lead (+) to SOLINOID STARTER SIDE and (-) to Starter Mounting Bolt or Engine Ground Bolt and Record Voltage - while cranking. : ___. ___ VDC

Test #2 Place the Red Lead (+) to SOLINOID BATTERY SIDE and (-) to Starter Mounting Bolt or Engine Ground Bolt and Record Voltage - while cranking: ___. ___ VDC
Interpreting Results:
Batteries should not fall < 11.9 VDC throughout Test (<11.9 – Charge / Test / Replace Batteries)
Alternator: Spec: KOEO Same system voltage at Batteries. KOER: > 13 VDC but, < 15 VDC, System Voltage or < - Alternator / regulator damaged. Perform Ripple Voltage Test

Starter test: Spec: Within 0.50 v of System Voltage while cranking. < System Voltage, check all wiring connectors and perform test again. < System Voltage – Replace Starter
Solenoid Test: Both Battery / Starter Side should be system voltage. < System Voltage – Replace Solenoid

* The maximum difference in any test can NOT exceed 0.05 VDC. This is an indication of loose connections, corrosions (resistance), and/or an open circuit.
echo=off

 

Since you mention the starter solenoid and not the fender mounted one I am guessing you have a 2002-2003?

 

They're all the First Generation until 08. Both 7.3 IDI, 7.3 DIT, and 6.0 DIT.

If it makes you feel better, I have seen the situation reversed as well.

It all has to do with proper maintenance, the way they're treated by the operator, and knowing when something small is occurring and correct it prior to it becoming a bigger issue. I find this to be true in 90% of their life expectancy.

 

i would check the neutral safety switch.
if auto trans, try putting it in neutral instead of park, to start, or even wiggling the shifter around while trying to start.
if manual trans, test the starter interrupter switch on the clutch pedal.