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We use both styles at work- the copper crimpable terminals only when there is space limitations. I've seen them crack at the narrow point of the terminal. Never seen an issue with the military style... they're bomb-proof! Them with a good quality copper lug, and it should be good for the life of the vehicle.
PS Be aware if ya don't know; there are positive and negative terminals, they are sized slightly different but can be forced into use on either battery post... bad, bad, bad!
Last edited by holeshotwalt; Jun 22, 2015 at 02:37 PM.
Reason: add ps
We use both styles at work- the copper crimpable terminals only when there is space limitations. I've seen them crack at the narrow point of the terminal. Never seen an issue with the military style... they're bomb-proof! Them with a good quality copper lug, and it should be good for the life of the vehicle.
PS Be aware if ya don't know; there are positive and negative terminals, they are sized slightly different but can be forced into use on either battery post... bad, bad, bad!
Yea I knew that about the positive and negative being a different size. I learned that one the hard way many years back. LOL Thanks for your input and after what you said about the terminal cracking on the copper crimp ones I think I will go with the military style.
Now I just need to figure out what size wire so I can buy the lugs. As I have been checking around I have not seen an answer to what size wire the battery cables are. So went to measure the wires and I came up with ground wires were .50 and .20 with the insulation on and the positive lead on the drivers side was .40 with the insulation on and on the passenger side positive it was .62 and .26 with the insulation on.
Which I come to find out does me NO good because you need to measure WITHOUT the the insulation on !!
Per this wire calculator: Wire Gauge & Diameter Calculator ? 66pacific.com
So I guess I'll strip off the insulation near the battery terminals and start all over. I'll report back when I do find out what size the wires are.
Also I found this a interesting read: http://standards.sae.org/uscar21-3/
Last edited by BadDogKuzz; Jun 22, 2015 at 06:29 PM.
Reason: Added Stuff
Yea I knew that about the positive and negative being a different size. I learned that one the hard way many years back. LOL Thanks for your input and after what you said about the terminal cracking on the copper crimp ones I think I will go with the military style.
Now I just need to figure out what size wire so I can buy the lugs. As I have been checking around I have not seen an answer to what size wire the battery cables are. So went to measure the wires and I came up with ground wires were .50 and .20 with the insulation on and the positive lead on the drivers side was .40 with the insulation on and on the passenger side positive it was .62 and .26 with the insulation on.
Which I come to find out does me NO good because you need to measure WITHOUT the the insulation on !!
Per this wire calculator: Wire Gauge & Diameter Calculator ? 66pacific.com
Have you determined the gauge size of the factory wire? I was going to replace just a section of the positive cable by using the Remy preloaded Butt Splice terminal and then replace the section that connects the 2 batteries with the Remy solder connectors.
Gatordog: You probably already have thought about this, but Raychem and others make an adhesive shrink tube of large diameter which you can slide on before you make the butt connections and then slide over the butt splice and shrink. I did this on the house side battery connections on my van and that big ashesive-lined shrink tube makes an insulated, abrasion resistant and I think airtight connection. (Home Depot also sells shrink tube like this in their big gauge wire splice repair section of the electrical aisle.)
I'm not a fan of using zinc anywhere around acid. It's way too "active" a metal, and is eaten relatively quickly by battery acid and its fumes.
They made them out of lead, for DECADES, for a reason!
The positive terminal on my driver's side is already copper from the factory, and if kept clean should last a lifetime.
Pop
POP I had never given any thought to using zinc before and never have heard of it being used for battery terminals before. But I have been seeing it more and more in the marine industry. Now you might be correct with your statement. But I have always been a firm believer that if something can make military spec that it is a higher standard then SAE spec. And as I read more about the NOCO TZ Zinc it is a zinc alloy and has come with some kind of coating on it. They say the Lead-free zinc battery terminals; 3.6 times more conductive than lead battery terminal equivalents.Complies with Military Specifications A52425-1 (MS75004-1) and A52425-2 (MS75004-2). NOCO TZ625 | Fisheries Supply
So when I get around to it I'm going to give them a try and see first hand for myself.
Originally Posted by Gatordog
Have you determined the gauge size of the factory wire? I was going to replace just a section of the positive cable by using the Remy preloaded Butt Splice terminal and then replace the section that connects the 2 batteries with the Remy solder connectors.
Sorry I haven't had a chance yet I got side tracked with other electrical issues. But when I do I'll post up on it here.
Originally Posted by Tim Hodgson
Gatordog: You probably already have thought about this, but Raychem and others make an adhesive shrink tube of large diameter which you can slide on before you make the butt connections and then slide over the butt splice and shrink. I did this on the house side battery connections on my van and that big ashesive-lined shrink tube makes an insulated, abrasion resistant and I think airtight connection. (Home Depot also sells shrink tube like this in their big gauge wire splice repair section of the electrical aisle.)
I was using some shrink tubing today and I really do like the adhesive lined shrink tube. I also used some that didn't have the adhesive lined shrink tubing and it is junk compared to the "good stuff"