A small block and a 5 speed is a fun combo. What rear gear are you going to run? I have a 4.10 in mine. In 5th it puts it at a 3.1, just about what it was stock. Great gearing for a toy but if this was strictly a daily driver I would probably have gone with 3.73.<br />
A couple of things to be prepared for. One is the driveshaft length. I don't know where my truck sits compared to the stock height since I'm running mid 90s dodge leaf springs but my truck height looks similar to yours. My stock driveshaft fits but I would be more comfortable if it was 1/2 inch shorter. Shouldn't be an issue if you are using a fox body T5 but if you are using a V6 or 94/95 T5, they are 5/8 inch longer at the bell house.<br />
The other thing is I ended up using a mid 90s F150 starter. The old starters are heavy and are bolted on with small bolts and if used on the T5, will be threaded into aluminum. Mine came loose, jaming itself into the flywheel. The newer starters are lighter and have gear reduction.

 

Rusted- I cut this much off the tops of the coils.

 

Shakes the rat- I am planning on 4.10, with my 28.5in tall tire and .73 overdrive it puts me at 2.9, or 70mph at 2500rpms.


I do have a 95 v6 T5 and bell housing, and measured my drive shaft at 2 inches too long. I already have a smaller starter off a 93 f150. I had to go to the small starter to clear the mustang headers I installed a while back. They are JBA stainless 1 3/4 long tubes with 3 inch collectors and there was no way the stock coffee can sized starter would work.


Is your truck a long bed or short bed?

 

OK bear with me here, these are pictures of my rough draft. My main focus at this point is to get the truck back together and see how things go, then I can go back and refine parts and pieces. It may not be the right way to do it, but its the way I like to do it.


This piece is attached to the working end of the clutch pedal and is the starting point of my clutch cable quadrant attachment point.
In the last picture you can kind of make out the tab I welded to the top of the original piece to allow the second bolt to be attached to the quadrant.

 

Just a few pictures of where I ended up for the evening. The shifter location is right at the bend in the access panel, so it will be a little tricky to get it sealed nicely. Rough measurements show it will be close to working with the bench in place, might have to use a cut down five gallon bucket for awhile until I get some corbeau sport seats





That is a short throw shifter I picked up from late model resto, my thought was the throw would be shorter and maybe help clear the bench seat, dunno but I'll find out..






And just a shot of the cable, its basically just sitting in place. I need to finalize the hole in the firewall still and come up with a support piece for the fire wall to help prevent flexing.

 

I actually have a week off, and had planned a trip to see my grandparents in sacramento, but my two boys are sick so that is on hold at the moment. I guess I will be able to jump back to working on the truck again in the morning. I am on the look out for a taller shifter handle, I may have to pester HIO, I seem to recall he had a decent looking shifter for these trucks.
A little tune from one of my favorites, a nod to all the generations of parts that are on my truck lol.

 

Hmm...I compared my pic to Hurst's parts and could not find a "candy cane" shift arm as MDL calls it. It's MDL part number MD-504-2071.... 16.5 inches tall. http://transmission.moderndriveline....style-p668.htm

MORE....It's Hurst PN 5384331.. for whatever reason their pic doesn't look like my shifter which is more curved than what I found shown on Hurst's website. They're probably using some sort of stock photo.

Here's a pic with the seat all the way forward cuz I'm vertically challenged.

 

Mines a short bed. I just realized you had a 4 speed. Mine was a 3.

Good call on the cable/firewall reinforcement. It is needed. Mine is around 4"x4". I put a 1/2 inch bend in it and attached it to the brake master reinforcement.

I have bucket seats with a straight shifter and while i can reach it (I have long monkey arms) the shifter could be an inch or so farther back. Im about to order an offset shifter similar to yours. If I still had the bench seat it would hit.

 

Thanks HIO, I just went looking through your LBB thread for that same picture but struck out. I did find where you shared the PN in there though, thanks again.


Shakes the Rat, I hear you on the monkey arms, lol, wide shoulders and long arms come in handy.

 

Little parts number run down.


SUM-700106 Cable quadrant kit
ZZZ-MU49-1 Clutch kit for 87 f150
ZZZ-50-735 Flywheel 28oz imbalance
ARP-130-2201 Pressure plate bolt kit
LRS-7210RS Short throw shifter
#LRS-7515B Correct clutch fork for 94-95 T5
All of this works for running a 95 V6 T5 transmission, if you decide to run a V8 transmission parts will need to change from the list above. The V6 cars run a 164 tooth flywheel and the V8 use a 157 tooth.
Also worth noting, to save time and hassle, the 94-95 T5 requires a longer clutch fork as the pivot stud was relocated in those years.

 

Great thread, keep up the good work! Do you by chance have a shot of how you did the rear shackles? Thanks!

 

Helmet- I flipped the hangers, haven't messed with the shackles yet, I still might if I decide to go lower. Heres some pictures.


Rivets drilled out



Flipped and bolted, I did the full flip as opposed to the half flip.

 

Looks like an awesome project, subscribing!

 

Well Im down to needing to drill the frame for the transmission cross member's new location. Top off fluids, oh and get the drive shaft shortened.
Last night I was able to get the cable finalized with firewall support piece. I made patch panels for the old shifter hole and the hole in the floor board where the clutch linkage used to go and welded them in. I also went through and re-routed wires behind the dash to be sure I have adequate clearance for the cable quadrant.
I found this gem while behind the dash, nice, lol



I am thinking I may salvage the original shifter and adapt it to the new transmission, stealthy. Be able to retain the factory shift ***.

 

have a 74 as well. just wondering what oil are you running in it? 10w30 5w30 10w40???? thanks