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Dropping fuel tank. What needs to be disconnected?

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Old 03-22-2015, 03:50 PM
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Dropping fuel tank. What needs to be disconnected?

I need to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump. So far, on my 97 F150 4.2L Reg Cab Long Bed,

1. Disconnected filler hose and the baby filler hose.
2. Removed 2 straps.
3. Disconnected fuel pump electrical connector.

Still I cannot drop the tank far enough to remove the fuel pump.

1. Should I drop the tank all the way to the ground in order to gain the clearance to remove the fuel pump assembly?
2. I see fuel lines connected to the fuel pump. Do these get disconnected at the pump assembly before dropping the tank to the floor?
3. Fuel vapor pressure sensor wire: Does the wire get disconnected at the sensor? Or does the sensor come with a pigtail? Long time back, I broke the vapor sensor and and am extra careful not to repeat the mistake. (Unfortunately, I don't remember how I broke the sensor head).
4. There is a hose connected to the very end of the tank. I wonder if this is a vapor line.
5. Any other lines I need to disconnect before dropping the tank to the floor?

Thanks.
 
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:31 PM
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:14 PM
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on a standard cab, you can drop the tank out the bottom, or pull the bed off and do it from the top. On a CREW cab, the rear seat sets on top of the tank and you have to drop the tank to get the pump out.......as the movie shows, the tank should be completely dropped and pulled out from under the truck.
 
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:02 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I watched the youtube video, which lead me to another
. I find the latter more helpful to someone who has not dropped fuel tank before.

In summary, before dropping completely to the floor, I will have to disconnect the following (to remind myself):
1. 2 fuel filler hoses. Actually, loosen the hose clamps first, and remove the hose as the tank gets dropped.
2. 1 fuel vapor pressure wiring at the sensor.
3. 2 evap lines with spring clamps. One is located between pump assembly and filler hose. The other is at the front.
4. 2 fuel lines at the pump assembly
5. Fuel pump wiring at the pigtail end.

Thanks.
I will take some photos and post here when the job is completed.
 
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:10 PM
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I thought about posting photos, but the above youtube video has more visual info than my photos. But some details are missing from the video and other posts, I mean the details that can cause frustration/long repair time if not anticipated.

1. If your vehicle is as old as mine (97), evaporator hoses (two) and spring clamps need to be replaced. NAPA has 1/2" ID fuel vapor hose. Buy 4 feet. The NAPA hose is thicker with nylon fabric. Original spring clamps are for thin original hoses, and will not work for the NAPA hose.

2. If your vehicle is as old as mine (97), you will want to replace the main fill hose and the daughter hose (breather hose). NAPA has both. 2 feet of the breather hose, and 1 foot of main fill hose. Also, new hose clamps. Old ones broke off from rusting while tightening.

3. Two fuel lines and pump wiring: They can be disconnected and reconnected when the tank is in the installed position. Go by clicking sound when installing fuel lines; blue line front, gray line rear. Remember the fuel line disconnect tool.

4. Fuel vapor pressure sensor: The stem is a slim plastic. Do not remove the sensor. You may break the slim plastic stem. I did. Rather disconnect the wiring at the sensor.

5. You need to sit up under the vehicle. If your vehicle is stock tire/rear suspension, jack up the rear. I put 2 stacks of popcorn blocks (total 4" lift) under the rear wheels. I am 5'6" and was able to sit up. Before the lift, I could not.

6. I had to scrape rust from one area, spray primer, and final coating.The area is toward the front. Dirt was collected, causing dampness.

The vehicle is now working fine. Thank you ProjectSho for diagnosing the fuel pump problem.
 
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