So blow high pressure air into the oil feed to the head and listen for hissing?

 

I have valve cover gaskets and harnesses on the way. I have a leak in the drivers side one so, I'm just going to swap all that while I have it open. I'll do the "Cody Test" while I have the valve covers off and tighten up all the rockers, injector bolts etc while in there.

I went out and pulled the plug on the ICP sensor and it ran rougher with it unplugged so, that's out.

When my benz started this I adjusted valves and reset the injector pump timing. This is definitely a whole other animal...

 

Yup, that is about it.

 

Rich (Tugly) has a good suggestion on how to check the existing torque on the injector hold down bolts. Start with your wrench at 50 inch pounds and work your way up, in 10" lb. increments, to the factory spec of 120" lbs. If they are much lower than spec then you should probably replace the o-rings. Also, do your initial check with the engine cold. Then do the final spec torque with the engine at full operational temp.

Was there oil in the sensor or plug on the ICP?

Did you have a chance to log the data that whitetmw requested?

 

Is the sticker that contains the build date and serial number of your current engine still on the front of the DS valve cover?

 

If you're going the route of taking the VC's off in lieu of additional testing,...

Start the truck when its warm (140*F) when they're removed and look at the base of each injector. If the seal(s) are defective you will see oil seeping past. Occasionally, when they're really difficult to start you'll see oil shoot out to the fender on the one that's defective.

When it's cold < 120*F - 140*F, they rarely leak. It needs to he at OT

 

Over the weekend, I pulled the drivers side valve cover and, it looks like there was an aftermarket harness and gasket. I say that because the harness was lacking the internal connector often associated with misfires and the use of the 50 cent mod.

The #8 injector was an aftermarket Delphi unit which tells me that it has been replaced which, would explain the aftermarket gasket. The part number on the #8 injector is EX63803AD.

I also tried a known good IDM from a friends truck with no change.

Because I have been unable to coax the truck into spitting any codes, I am leaning towards a bad number 8 injector. I'm going to have it towed to a buddies shop (AAA member perk) and let him deal with it. They're reputable and inexpensive. I'd continue working on it but, I'm going to be in Ohio for the next 2 weeks.

 

lacking the internal connector

Yes those are the best thing since sliced bread. It removes the under valve cover issues that are out of sight. I have replaced both of mine and are awesome. It replaced my wobble as well. I was having buzz and ohm issues on the drivers side as well. But when replaced all was right in the world again. Only think I will say is use the factory Ford clips at the injectors. Just swap them to the new gaskets as they are of much better quality fit and retention.