Jeez there it is, $70 for the two barb fittings? Cancel that part of the order and get them at Lowe's for $3.50 each

THAT hose seems a lot higher than what mine was as well

the Dorman fuel lines do come with compression fittings

 

Ya, those prices have changed... Seek a better/different source for the same part at a much cheaper rate.

Going to try and update the parts list with a disclaimer or warning.

 

The 3/8 NTP barbs, 25 ft of fuel line and Racor came to almost $200 by itself. Only the 10 pack of barbs seemed a lttle expensive at over $6 each. This is why I said to "shop around for better pricing" if you want to spend the time

 

Not sure if it's taboo to ask/post same question on two separate threads BUT maybe different people will only read one or the other so.....
When you take out the mixing chamber in the tank you are removing the 2 screens that filter fuel there. Nobody ever seems to mention or be concerned to compare just what Micron size those screens you are removing might be vs. the Racor SP120-02 (that seems to be the most popular & recommended filter unit) that if I read the specs. correctly on , they are rated for 200 to 265 Microns. Are (we) sure (we) are protecting are fuel pumps enough with that size filter? Anyone care to speculate what the Micron size of the removed mixing chamber filters are/were? Pretty sure the screen in the fuel pickup umbrella/foot is irrelevant as I believe it is much larger. ORRRR Do I have it wrong and the screens in the mixing chamber are only filtering the return fuel? And could that be one of the reasons (we) are removing them because over some vast number of years they may get clogged? Hey, Just what's happening in that mixing chamber anyway!? LOL DDT

 

What he said...

 

Thanks Sous. Guess I will just concentrate on getting it done. At the least, I will be stopping /correcting the issue with suction air into the lines between the tank top and the pump. That sure can't hurt anything. DDT

 

No problem. Out of all the things I have done to my truck, this is one of my favorites.

The truck was noticeably quieter, I can put 32 gallons of fuel in the short bed tank, when the fuel nozzle shuts off it is full, the tank doesn't puke all over me and I widened the fill neck so I can use commercial truck lanes at Flying J and Pilot.

 

I sourced every thing either through my work or Amazon, the most I paid for this whole process was $150 at most for the parts, and then due to not having a lift I sent it to a local place to do the work so all said and dome it was maybe around $200 total, and I did all the modifications to the tank, mainly because I wanted to get a clean tank and use that, and keep (at least for now) my old one for an emergency, however I feel that I am at the point of I can let it go now.

 

Hey Sous,

Nice mods! How hard was it to widen the fill neck?

Thanks,
Josh

 

Not bad at all. I used a dremel tool with a titanium bit and just kept going around the opening until I was happy with it.

I made extra sure to rinse the neck out very well a couple of times. Since the only thing holding the neck in place is three screws from the top, it was easy to remove.

Having the ability to use the truck lanes is a great thing when the 5th wheel is attached.

 

That's one mod I still haven't done after all these years. It's on the list. I have to drop my tank because it can leak when full. I think a vent line is cracked.

 

Thanks Sous! I've gotta do the H&H mod soon. I've had the parts gathered for a while now, and think I'll do the widening too.

 

When I was widening the fill port I believe I had a 1.5" outside diameter piece of PVC. I had heard/thought that the big truck fill nozzles were about 1" inside diameter, but was not sure. It took about 20 minutes of grinding at a slow, but somewhat precise pace in order to get the PVC into the fill port. It is still a pretty tight fit, but I also used the PVC to make sure the port was not out of round either which could cause problems too.

Just remember that when you are filling up at the truck lanes stay with the truck while filling. Once you are done, pull forward enough for a truck behind you to get into the lane to fill up and then go in to shop or take care of your business. If you leave your truck/trailer in the lane and go in, you may get somewhat of a rude welcoming when you return to the lane.

It only takes seconds to fill up at the truck lanes anyway, so not a big deal really.

 

Since Adam (Z32freakify) is taking some time to do some updates, I will do one for these mods that I accomplished 3.5 years ago now...

Hutch/Harpoon mod - Still one of my favorite mods. I can get 32 gallons into the stock tank and use the big truck lanes with the larger nozzles when traveling with the 5th wheel. The pump shuts off when the tank is full, the tank does not throw up fuel all over the place and all is well. The truck was instantly quieter when idling and running due to the plumbing being air tight. The Racor filter is a great addition and I give it a quick inspection each time I change the oil.

ATTA 45RBR - Having 75 gallons of fuel on board allows me to nearly 1400 miles unloaded and nearly 1000 miles loaded with the 5th wheel. This is great because I have the freedom to fill up with fuel when I want to instead of when I have to. When we took our trip out west to Seattle from GA, the freedom of not stopping for fuel was great.

The tank and service from ATTA have been top notch. Although, today I noticed that the gauge for the auxiliary tank was pegged on empty when going to fill the truck for our upcoming camping trip. I filled both the OEM and auxiliary tank, but the gauge for the auxiliary tank was still pegged at empty. My wife pushed the momentary switch to pump fuel from the auxiliary tank to the OEM tank and the pump was working well. That of course is the critical part because without the pump there is no auxiliary fuel. As a bonus, I was sure to order a tank that sat below the bed rails. This was intentional because I did not want interference with the 5th wheel or the soft top tonneau cover (extang revolution which is a great piece) we have.

I called ATTA and spoke to a tech right away and within a few moments we had performed a test to check if the gauge was faulty or if it was the resistor on the sending unit. Turns out the resistor failed and the sending unit needs to be replaced. I have one on order and it will be here next week. I had asked about replacing the resistor and he told me I could do that, but I would have to get it set up just right and ohm it out to set empty and full levels. I figured it was just better to have the entire unit sent to me and replace it that way. It is only 2 rubber hose lines (one vent and one fill) and then 2 wires for ground and sending unit communication to the gauge.

All in all, still very happy with the H/H mod and the ATTA tank.

 

During testing of the bad sending unit, I grounded the sending unit wire that goes to the gauge. This pegged the gauge at full which indicated a good wire connection and good gauge. In doing this, since I never un-grounded the signal wire from the sending unit, I damaged the needle in the gauge while driving 600+ over the next couple of weeks.

I purchased a digital gauge (previous was analog) so that it would be easier to read the gauge at a glance. I have the gauge mounted in the center console/arm rest in the back. So, as I open the lid and look down into the compartment, the gauge is facing forward toward the engine. This has worked well for the analog gauge, but since I am looking at it at such a steep angle, the digital gauge would be better for quick fuel level identification.

I bought a simple gauge from Jegs for just under $50 shipped to the house.

The part number is 555-41413 on the Jegs site. My expectations were low due to the simplicity and cost of the gauge, but it is much better than I thought it was going to be. The color is bright, uniform and easily readable when viewed.

Picture of the gauge from the Jegs site, just for reference. It comes in a blue as well, but I thought that the white would be easier to read at a glance.