Lees build - repair - negleted maintenance finds - pic heavy
#62
#63
#64
Check the integrity of the walls on the oil cooler. They don't fail very often though so keep that in mind. Definatly replace the orings though. I think if you doing the uvch anyway the superduty setup is cheaper. Get motorcraft ones through riff raff. Also get a tube of motorcraft rtv
Switching over seems like a lot with going from two plugs to one.... change uvch, change truck side, and then from the gasket to the gp's...
#65
If you're doing turbo work, then do an EBPV delete (unless you plan to use it for an exhaust brake or something) and replace all the pedestal o-rings. Also do the o-rings on the big gallery plugs on the back of the heads. You don't have to replace the plugs unless you booger them up removing them, but the o-rings are never going to be easier to replace than they are right now.
I would strongly suggest looking at bellowed up-pies while the engine is out as well. Riffraff sells them pretty cheap and then you don't have to worry about them leaking again. You can also modify your own and build them yourself if you or someone you know is handy with a welder. That's a job MUCH more easily done now than later on.
E-fuel isn't hard to do with the engine in the truck, so I wouldn't worry too much about that right now. That can be done any time. If you have leaks in the stock fuel system, spend $30 and buy the o-ring kit and get it sealed up. It will buy you some time and work just fine.
I would echo the other guys recommendations that you at least check out the wiring harnesses. If they look okay, I wouldn't mess wit it right now. It's not hard to pull the whole harness out of the truck and do the conversion on a workbench. If the harnesses look bad, that's one thing, but if they are okay y ou can delay that expense for a while.
One thing I would also suggest you do when the mill is out, even if you don't intend to do an upgraded exhaust or downpipe right now is to cut and flatten out the pinch welded seam in the firewall of the cab where you need to make room for an aftermarket 3" downpipe. It's arguably the most common mod on these trucks, and it's 10 times easier to get in there with a 3 pound hammer and a sawzall, make a couple cuts and them beat it flat with the engine out of the truck. Sure beats cutting, prying and cussing at it later on.
That's about all I can think of right now.
I would strongly suggest looking at bellowed up-pies while the engine is out as well. Riffraff sells them pretty cheap and then you don't have to worry about them leaking again. You can also modify your own and build them yourself if you or someone you know is handy with a welder. That's a job MUCH more easily done now than later on.
E-fuel isn't hard to do with the engine in the truck, so I wouldn't worry too much about that right now. That can be done any time. If you have leaks in the stock fuel system, spend $30 and buy the o-ring kit and get it sealed up. It will buy you some time and work just fine.
I would echo the other guys recommendations that you at least check out the wiring harnesses. If they look okay, I wouldn't mess wit it right now. It's not hard to pull the whole harness out of the truck and do the conversion on a workbench. If the harnesses look bad, that's one thing, but if they are okay y ou can delay that expense for a while.
One thing I would also suggest you do when the mill is out, even if you don't intend to do an upgraded exhaust or downpipe right now is to cut and flatten out the pinch welded seam in the firewall of the cab where you need to make room for an aftermarket 3" downpipe. It's arguably the most common mod on these trucks, and it's 10 times easier to get in there with a 3 pound hammer and a sawzall, make a couple cuts and them beat it flat with the engine out of the truck. Sure beats cutting, prying and cussing at it later on.
That's about all I can think of right now.
#66
If you're doing turbo work, then do an EBPV delete (unless you plan to use it for an exhaust brake or something) and replace all the pedestal o-rings. Also do the o-rings on the big gallery plugs on the back of the heads. You don't have to replace the plugs unless you booger them up removing them, but the o-rings are never going to be easier to replace than they are right now.
I would strongly suggest looking at bellowed up-pies while the engine is out as well. Riffraff sells them pretty cheap and then you don't have to worry about them leaking again. You can also modify your own and build them yourself if you or someone you know is handy with a welder. That's a job MUCH more easily done now than later on.
E-fuel isn't hard to do with the engine in the truck, so I wouldn't worry too much about that right now. That can be done any time. If you have leaks in the stock fuel system, spend $30 and buy the o-ring kit and get it sealed up. It will buy you some time and work just fine.
I would echo the other guys recommendations that you at least check out the wiring harnesses. If they look okay, I wouldn't mess wit it right now. It's not hard to pull the whole harness out of the truck and do the conversion on a workbench. If the harnesses look bad, that's one thing, but if they are okay y ou can delay that expense for a while.
One thing I would also suggest you do when the mill is out, even if you don't intend to do an upgraded exhaust or downpipe right now is to cut and flatten out the pinch welded seam in the firewall of the cab where you need to make room for an aftermarket 3" downpipe. It's arguably the most common mod on these trucks, and it's 10 times easier to get in there with a 3 pound hammer and a sawzall, make a couple cuts and them beat it flat with the engine out of the truck. Sure beats cutting, prying and cussing at it later on.
That's about all I can think of right now.
I would strongly suggest looking at bellowed up-pies while the engine is out as well. Riffraff sells them pretty cheap and then you don't have to worry about them leaking again. You can also modify your own and build them yourself if you or someone you know is handy with a welder. That's a job MUCH more easily done now than later on.
E-fuel isn't hard to do with the engine in the truck, so I wouldn't worry too much about that right now. That can be done any time. If you have leaks in the stock fuel system, spend $30 and buy the o-ring kit and get it sealed up. It will buy you some time and work just fine.
I would echo the other guys recommendations that you at least check out the wiring harnesses. If they look okay, I wouldn't mess wit it right now. It's not hard to pull the whole harness out of the truck and do the conversion on a workbench. If the harnesses look bad, that's one thing, but if they are okay y ou can delay that expense for a while.
One thing I would also suggest you do when the mill is out, even if you don't intend to do an upgraded exhaust or downpipe right now is to cut and flatten out the pinch welded seam in the firewall of the cab where you need to make room for an aftermarket 3" downpipe. It's arguably the most common mod on these trucks, and it's 10 times easier to get in there with a 3 pound hammer and a sawzall, make a couple cuts and them beat it flat with the engine out of the truck. Sure beats cutting, prying and cussing at it later on.
That's about all I can think of right now.
Bellowed will be on the list if compression test comes back decent.... I noticed a leak (carbon on the fire wall at the exhaust manifold to up gasket) while trying to get to the engine mount bolts...
DEfinitely plan on checking everything i can while it is open...hopefully it doesnt cost me to much more...(thats funny isn't it!)
Already has a 3 inch...but I need to clean it up and hit it with some paint...
Thank you....
btw you are one of a few I plan to try and catch at RRE to personally say thank you... hopefully i can find diesel brad, fordman67, clay, oldbird, moosemachine, and zx250 too
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