Well as the title states I'm looking at buying a project IDI. I like the IDI's because they seem like they'd be the easiest engines to work on overall compared to a powerstroke. My main goal is to to do a cab swap because I have a rust free 1997 F250 with a 5.8 and Id want to put it on to the frame rather than dealing with swapping a diesel and all the components into my truck now.

I found this truck and it seems like a real good deal

1993 f250 diesel

was told it only has 125k miles but what is kind of intimidating is that the key has been lost and it has not been started in 5 years. So who knows if everything is really in working order. What would everyone's thoughts be to pay for something like this and how much would it possibly be to rebuild the motor is things are bad.

 

I would at least put batteries in it, pull the glow plugs (3/8" deep, 1/4" drive w/ extension and swivel is what I use), and jump the solenoid at the firewall to hear it turn over and watch for anything blowing out of the holes. Of course check the oil first. Way high and it means water in the engine, water can get in from the valley too around the CDR. My 93 had a leaking hood seal and allowed water to fill the top of the air cleaner. It then filled the intake and whatever cylinder had a valve open.

If it has sat for 5 years, does it have coolant, or just water? If it checks out I would expect to replace everything that is rubber. Drain and flush the cooling system and add proper coolant w/ SCA's. Draining the fuel tanks and looking for signs of growth would be a good idea.

 

as long as there is no water in the oil. i would offer him 400 -500 and see what he says. this way if the engine is bad, you can make your money back by scrapping it.

 

Thanks guys, I was also thinking 400-500 would be a good price just because then I could get my money back if all goes wrong and could just sell parts if need be. Would I still be able to jump the solenoid even though it doesn't have a key and I wont be able to put it to the on position? This is going to be a learning experience and plan to do all or most work by myself so all info on things to check would be appreciated. I'm still kind of new to working on my truck so sorry if I ask simple questions

 

yes. batteries, and fuel are needed. run a jumper wire to the fuel shutoff switch on the injector pump, make sure the trans in in park and jump the starter relay. it will probably not start unless it is pretty warm out because the glow plugs will not work. but if you see white smoke out of the exhaust when it is cranking over that is a pretty good bet it will start once the cylinders warm up or the glow plugs are activated.
you could also give the intake a very slight whiff of starting fluid, wd40, or use a gas soaked rag to give it some help starting without the glow plugs.

 

Thanks for the info. This is a little off topic but would you know how hard it is to do a cab swap on this? Wouldn't think there would be too many wires to worry about

 

unplug everything.
unbolt the cab, and the rad support.
you can lift the cab and nose as one piece, or remove the nose.

the one thing i can see giving you a bit of a headache is the cab is partially stripped. so you are going to have to find a diesel instrument cluster, and maybe even a wiring harness.
because the gas and diesel cab and engine bay wiring, computer, and cluster are different.

 

I agree on offering 4-500 to start with but remember you could get up to 800 for the motor and trans alone. I actually just paid 1500 for a F350 with 7.3, ZF and most importantly a D60 that the key had been lost on and not moved in X years mismatched batteries junk tires and such. Drained the tanks, put batteries in, bled the lines, and a good dose of ether it fired up. Go with your gut.