I've been using the BBK adjustable set at 42 psi. It does make a difference in the cruising speed. Since our lovely SD systems boarder on the lean side at that area. I'll tell you how much it will differ now that the 502 stroker is in it.

 

Under cruising conditions the computer is working in closed loop operation. The Long and Short Term fuel trims will negate any pressure changes you make with the fuel pressure. I will stay with my original statement: an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is not needed on a stock engine.

A stroker is a not a stock engine so using an adjustable FPR will mask the need for a custom tune. You may get away using one, but if I sunk money into a stroker build I would budget for a custom tune.

 

WOT is where it made the biggest difference with mine. I've done a lot of things that were "not needed" but so far I haven't blown myself up or tore up the truck. Some things worked out well, some not so much. This was one of those things that, for me, has worked beyond expectation. RLA, thanks for the info and your expertise. I respect it and hope you will share more with me in the future. I can see where this could be overkill and just not necessary, but this old truck is not only a DD and a work truck, but also a toy. And we big boys still like to play with toys, don't we!

 

In the long run...if it works for you, great!

 

bringing back to the top.

 

Why?

 

Hi all.

I am exploring putting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on my RV, which is based on a 1990 E-350 van with 460 engine.

The reason I am intrigued with the adjustable fuel pressure regulator is I am about 99% convinced that I am experiencing fuel boiling and then vapor lock in the fuel rail. I have been googling "Ford 460 Vapor Lock" and have discovered numerous posts with the exact same symptoms:

At times of high ambient temperatures, the engine will sputter and backfire through the intake, and die. After cooling off 20-30 minutes, the engine starts and runs fine again until it repeats.

I believe part of the issue may be that ethanol-blended gasolines have a lower vapor temperature than pure gasoline does. And these engines were design in the 80's before the prevalence of ethanol gasoline.

I was originally thinking there was some component failing under the heat but I now doubt this. I have already replaced my ICM and PIP sensor (by replacing the distributor), the spark plugs and plug wires.

The ECM is not mounted on the engine so I doubt it is heat affected, though it could be. Likewise I have not replaced the coil, and that could be failing under heat load. But given the symptoms described by this guy:

460 FI problem

I feel certain this is a vapor lock problem.

My hope is that by increasing the fuel pressure slightly it will raise the boiling point of the fuel enough to negate the problem.

Does anyone know if the BBK adjustable regulator will work with the 3-hole regulator on the 460?

Thanks,
Steve