Well I just graduated from a no crank no start to a no shift cable no start.
1997 f150 lariat supercab 4x4 RAP and all the bells and whistles 5.4l.


After poking through the electrical system replacing a seized starter and two faulty starter relays, and then determining the open in my cranking circuit was at the shift selector, I felt up under the dash for loose shift brackets/bolts and instead found a kinked shift cable. So I pulled the shift cable and set the trans into park and wha la, it cranks but still no start. Ugg


Now in the start running circuits. New plugs/boots/coils. I squirted a little fuel in the intake and there is no reply so I'm guessing no spark. The check engine light does not cycle, but there is power to the PCM and my scan tool is able to read stored codes. So I'm guessing that the PCM is at least sorta working. I'm sure there is power to the coils and such cuz I already checked the PCM power circuit (fuse diode and relay) and that seems to power everything else. I tested the power and ground at all the fuses and the fuses themselves.


Anyhow, tomorrow I'll start working my way though the system to see if I can isolate the issue. If anyone has any great ideas let me know.


Cheers
Van

 

When you turn the ignition key to the "Run" position do you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds or so?


And when the key is in the "Run" position does the "check engine" lamp illuminate?


And then when you advance the key to the "Start" (aka "Crank") position does the "check engine" lamp turn off?

 

Don't assume.

The COPS are on a SEPARATE circuit from the PCM, you have to check that circuit separately.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.


The check engine light does NOT illuminate ever.

The fuel pump is running. The relay is receiving a signal from the PCM and is functioning. I also jumped the relay and purged the fuel rails, then replaced the relay.
The coils and injectors have power. The Injectors are receiving the ground signal to open. The coils are not receiving a signal to fire. What would make the PCM signal the injectors and not the coils?

So as I guessed the PCM is at least partially functional. I have no idea how the injector and coil signal generation is different being the leads... Does the PCM use the crank or cam sensors during start up? I would guess it would be in some sort of closed loop, but would need some reference point to initiate the closed loop sequence.


Cheers
Van

 

COPS are on the circuit that energizes the PCM relay. I'm no engineer but that would make the COPS circuit part of the PCM power circuit as its dependent on it. Or visa versa.. yes?

 

I swapped out the ch eng bulb with the one next to it and now the check engine light illuminates with key in 'run' and remains illuminated with key in start. Still no spark. I hooked up the scan tool and watched the cam sensor. It is erratic at best and sometimes non existent. So that's where I'm at right now.

 

When the PCM receives a CKP signal it turns the check engine lamp off.
If it doesn't receive a CKP signal, the PCM doesn't know when to fire which coil.


Might want to hook your scope up to the CKP sensor signal and confirm that it is generating a signal.

 

No, the PCM is supplied by the relay via a different fuse. It's a bit of a cascade effect, though. Have to have one or you won't have either.

 

So I replaced the cam position sensor (the old one of course snapped off and had to be cussed at then extracted) and no changes. SO then I checked out the crank sensor and I had a bad connection. Reconnected it and the truck started right up. Thank guys and thanks PDQ you were right on. You are The Man. Much obliged.


The shift cable should be in today, so I'll throw the truck back together and pull the starter (it sounds like a tin can. I suspect its not meshing right). Then bend up the new drake lines. fill and bleed. top off the fluids and test drive it.


-Cheers -Van

 

So to recap for anyone searching for answers.


97 5.4l auto trans. No Crank No start.


Checked:
Starter. Manualy powered it with jumpers and it was non functional. Replaced.
Starter loom. Cobled together wiring in bad shape. Replaced all starter and grounding wiring.
Starter relay on firewall. Supplied power to relay trigger and ground to base and was non functional. Replaced.
Tested for power at tan/red relay trigger wire when key is in start position. No power.
Tested power at all fuses then at blue/org wire from starter interrupt relay to trans position indicator. Power present when key turned to start.
Ensured trans in park. fault found with broken shift cable. Replaced.
Trans put in park.
Engine now cranks. No start. No Check engine light.
Tested for power at fuel injectors and coils. Verified
Tested for power at PCM. Verified
Tested for power and ground at OBD port. Verified.
Pulled I/P and replaced check engine bulb.
Check engine light now illuminated, but stays illuminated when key in start position.
Check Crank Position Sensor. Open circuit via faulty connection. Sensor reconnected. Vehicle started.


Good luck with your headache... I mean FORD.

 

Finished the brakes and filled up all the fluids. (I don't like the tranz fill/check port. After filling it gives a faulty reading with the dip stick and the fluid pools in the horizontal portion of the tube.) Zip-tied all the dangly looms (no fender wells yet) and threw on the tires.
Driving really strong. Shifted well. Even the 4X4 worked! Hauled a few loads of fire wood with it and then pulled it back into the garage to re-wire the rear lights and plug as well as start cutting off some of the rust. There are other electrical gremlins I need to work out like side view mirrors etc...


Question:
1.E40D It moving the shift selector through the gears is really hard. I suspect rust. Anybody have any suggestions? Is there a bearing on the side of the trans that can be replaced in vehicle? O do you think it is maybe the digital gear indicator that might be causing the friction? Also I need to find a shift cable adjustment how-to.


2. How likely is it to find un rusted doors and tailgate in the northeast PA upstate NY region for this truck? Should I even try looking in the local junkyards?


Cheers, Van