Like I said, I wasn't trying to be a jerk, just stating the obvious and sorry you took it the wrong way. I'm actually a nice guy and on many forums. I have driven hundreds of miles to help out total strangers on other forums. An engine lift isn't necessary to fix the freeze plug. A jack with some blocks of wood, come along or other lifting device would work also. If you're "broke" and trust me I've been there, this is not a project you should be taking on. Can it be done, sure. But it is not a bolt on affair. Now, if you really want to do it, go for it. Just realize going in, that it won't be easy. Good luck and once again sorry if you took it the wrong way, I know it's easy to read something differently than what someone else has written.

 

I do have insight. He was already told, correctly, that NONE of this will just bolt on. But he replied that it would, so I challenged him to do it and show us that we're wrong.

It gets rather annoying when people come and ask for help, and when it's given, tell them off because it isn't what they wanted to hear. So I'm going along with him and letting him make his own mistakes.

 

As much time and brain cells most of use spend here trying to help the unknowing there are new members like this OP who make it less and less fun to share knowledge. Once I get (or see) this OP's attitude in reply personally I just stop trying to help. As Mark says its not what they want to hear so it seems better to argue with those who've already been there, done that and most likely have the tee shirt to prove it.

 

Look guys I thank those who are helping out the knowledge is helping be look at other options …


I have apologiesed once and I'll do it again ! IM SORRY. Ok I know I blew up and looked like a jack *** ok I've got other **** goin on and it's not that I'm not hearing what I'm wanting to this is why I'm here ! I blew up because my ability was "down" talked ... And if you notice the dises I dished pissed some of you off and I understand and that's what I was trying to show you I'm not an idiot I've done sas's on a few trucks and I have drawn up blueprints for a friend of mine who followed them to the letter and now has a 4x4 1986 country squire ... I was able to look at what he had to work with and out of my head knew what he needed to do .... I have simply been looking back in memory at the front end in my econline 150 conversion van and knowing the f150 has the same "style" front suspension I figured I'd ask .... And no I'm not happy with "it won't work.. Sorry" I want measurements, specs, details, pictures would help etc...




Having said all that and made myself look alike a jackass I have more questions ... SAS w/ coils using a 70's Dana 44 this will be a future project for just after I graduate so me and my lady can do some expedition camping as well as dropping her in a mud hole at the local mudfest … has anyone tried this or would anyone know what's involved ... I'm thinking 6 inch skyjacker lift coils and extended radius arms and some home made radius arm brackets I am a welder (mig) I've done some Stick but my bead doesn't look as good ....
And I'd go with a 5.5" block rear possibly welded to the spring perch to avoid throwing a block between torqueings as well as an airlift system on the rear axel for towing ...


Thoughts from those who understand that people have good and bad days would be very much appreciated

Thank you

 

I am keep_n_it_custome and I started this thread

 

I can understand your frustration, but just remember no one knew what your skill level/abilities were because you didn't start out your post by saying what they were. We don't know whether you are a 12 year old kid with big dreams or a master mechanic that own s your own shop. So most people lean towards giving a response that leans towards the big dreamer end of the spectrum.

Yes the Econoline and F150 have similar design suspension. But due to the wider frame the pieces are going to be different dimensions. Which means they don't interchange with the F150 parts.

Now to you SAS question. The Econoline frame is quite a bit wider then the F150's frame. Sorry I don't remember the exact difference. I think it was in the 4"-5" range. If you do a search you should be able to find the exact #.

So to be able to use the coil sprung 70's D44 will require some extensive mods and a custom length inner passenger axle shaft. The way I would accomplish this is is to replace the passenger side axle tube on the D44 with a piece of thick wall DOM tubing that matches the thickness of the stock axle tube and is long enough to give you the proper width. That requires removing the out C and the C-bushing wedges from the stock pass. axle tube. Then removing the stock axle tube from the center section.

If you are going to do that I highly recommend getting an axle alignment jig bar. And make sure to reinstall the outer C at the matching caster angle to the driver side out C.

You can also accomplish this job by cutting the stock axle tube to the inside of the C-bushing wedges. Then install a piece of tube the correct length to widen it. But this is going to be a weak spot in the axle tube. If you choose to do it this way I suggest adding some kind of gusset to the diff housing.

After all that then you get to deal with the lift to gain crossmember clearance. I don't recommend lift blocks that large in the rear. Even with welding them to the spring perches. It's going to lead to some nasty axle wrap/wheel hop that is going to break driveline parts.

 

If you haven't already, check out 4wd (and 2WD) Camper Vans - Expedition Portal.

 

Thank you guys I guess I should have waited for the proper help and I don't like to start a forum saying I know as much as I do bc it makes me look like I have this big ego ... I do have vast knowledge but there is always more to learn !!! I don't pretend to know it all but I live off what I do know !!! I guess my projects will start after school so I can sit down and figure some stuff out as I'll be working 12 hours and going to school for 8 ...

The only reason id like to block the rear springs is because I want to bag it as well and have had more bags throw the spacers then I've had block issues my current truck (91 f150) will rip up the 35X15.5-15s with no hop or hesitation with stock gears, stock 351w, and stock E4OD trans with 200,000+ miles on it !!! No slip or bogging ! I have ripped a 31x10.50-15 Hoosier radial spinning from dirt to black top 4wd when the rear end found a ditch with no reveres lights at midnight trying to turn around to get my phone an it was the only "drive way for miles !

For the near futures reference what's the best axle to use when building an 1980-1991 econoline 4x4 ?

 

"no money" pretty much ends the conversion process

 

Are you saying the inner passenger side axle shaft on a d44 front axle in a van is longer then a d44 front axle from a 70's Ford F-250.?

 

I have looked into ujoint offroad but they don't work with anything that old ... Having said that does any one know how much they changed the frame from 91-92?

 

Unfortunately I'm considerably older than 24, and I've built a fair amount of crap. Fords, Jeeps of numerous types, a Unimog, and the latest being a 4x4 conversion of a 1992 Ford E-350 Ambulance.

All your questions have been answered over on the Expedition Portal, and truth be told it is probably a much better place to be asking them. Vans of all types have been converted over there. Your last question about the differences between a 1991 and 1992 being one of them. Either search, or most likely more effective, ask.

Be warned though. There are a bunch of helpful people over there, but you will need to check any "I know my chit" attitude at the door because no matter how much you think you know, there are plenty of folks over there that know a cubic azz load more.

The latest casualty was an engineering student that wanted to design his own suspension since it was all "just math and no big deal", and then got all butt hurt when real honest to god experienced engineers told him it wasn't quite that simple.

Everything you need to know is there. Be humble enough to listen, in spite of what you know already.

 

Agile Offroad has done TTB conversions to 75-91 (3rd Gen) vans. The owner is on Expedition Portal. They seem to do very good work.

 

Personally I'm not all that fond of TTB in an offroad "truck" (van). It's great if you want to go blasting across washboard and have anything you could consider ride quality, but it really mucks around with front end geometry when it's cycling through its travel range.

I'm a big fan of solid axles and leaf springs, and it's something the OP should consider. They're dead simple, rugged, and pieces/parts are practically everywhere. Even for something like a converted van.

 

I've found the opposite. The camber changes tend to improve traction in my experience and TTBs have proven quite rugged in 4wd applications, upto and including F350 snow plows.

I do agree ride quality is great with a TTB. To say nothing of the horrible ride solid axle vans exhibit (due to a nasty lack of wheel travel) at any heights under about a 6" lift, which makes the cargo loading and passentry ingress/egress of a van far less practical.