What kind of starter for 02 7.3?
#1
What kind of starter for 02 7.3?
<hr size="1" style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> So I need a new starter. I have a 2002 7.3 (F250). I've got 295,000 on my pickup and I am finally needing a new starter, mine is dragging pretty bad. It looks like on my '02 that it's the 2-holer, although there is an extra hole drilled and tapped for, what looks like might be or might have been for, a 3-holer. There's a ton of oil and grease up under there but it looks like a 2-holer I do have.
I've heard positive and negative about high torque starters. Should I get one from the stealership (I get a pretty good discount from there)? NAPA? Or what? I'm going with a NEW one either way. What kind and where should I get my new starter from? The last time I changed a starter out was on my '88 YJ Jeep, back in the 90's. Let me know what y'all know.
I've heard positive and negative about high torque starters. Should I get one from the stealership (I get a pretty good discount from there)? NAPA? Or what? I'm going with a NEW one either way. What kind and where should I get my new starter from? The last time I changed a starter out was on my '88 YJ Jeep, back in the 90's. Let me know what y'all know.
#2
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
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Just replaced the starter on "HIS" Excursion last week...actually, TWICE! The one that went out was a 2.5 year old NAPA 3-bolt starter. I had the old factory starter as a backup, even though it was very weak. Luckily I had it. So, temporarily put the old one on while I got NAPA to replace my other one for free. The NAPA starter seems pretty danged solid...it cranks like a *****! What went wrong on it was the solenoid on the starter itself.
Anyway, on install #2, it took me a grand total of 45 minutes from the time I stepped into the garage, to when I turned the lights out on the garage. It's very easy to do. Here's my Cliff Notes way to change it:
Materials:
3/8 socket wrench
6" extension (for top starter bolt)
1/2 socket for batteries
17mm socket for starter bolts (yours might be different)
17mm open end wrench (stubby or smaller crescent) for large nut on starter
9mm open end wrench for small nut on starter
Floor Jack (if you don't have a 4x4)
(1) heavy duty jack stand
Wheel chocks
1. Disconnect positive cable on BOTH batteries.
2. Make sure #1 was done properly. No joke, otherwise you won't be laughing later, but we might be.
3. Engage emergency brake, chock rear wheels in proper direction of likely roll
4. Jack up passenger side of truck if you need clearance
5. Install jack stand, remove floor jack
6. Remove top starter bolt using the 6" extension and 17mm socket
7. Remove two bottom bolts
8. Holding the starter in place (and holding your tongue from cursing), unscrew the 17mm nut and the small 9mm nut from the two wires. Admire your bulging triceps afterward.
9. Work backwards from 8 through 1.
I found that for that *SOB* nut on top, a stubby handled swivel headed 3/8 socket wrench worked best. You know, the cheap ones you can get from Harbor Freight. It's not that bad, as long as you have the 6" extension.
Anyway, on install #2, it took me a grand total of 45 minutes from the time I stepped into the garage, to when I turned the lights out on the garage. It's very easy to do. Here's my Cliff Notes way to change it:
Materials:
3/8 socket wrench
6" extension (for top starter bolt)
1/2 socket for batteries
17mm socket for starter bolts (yours might be different)
17mm open end wrench (stubby or smaller crescent) for large nut on starter
9mm open end wrench for small nut on starter
Floor Jack (if you don't have a 4x4)
(1) heavy duty jack stand
Wheel chocks
1. Disconnect positive cable on BOTH batteries.
2. Make sure #1 was done properly. No joke, otherwise you won't be laughing later, but we might be.
3. Engage emergency brake, chock rear wheels in proper direction of likely roll
4. Jack up passenger side of truck if you need clearance
5. Install jack stand, remove floor jack
6. Remove top starter bolt using the 6" extension and 17mm socket
7. Remove two bottom bolts
8. Holding the starter in place (and holding your tongue from cursing), unscrew the 17mm nut and the small 9mm nut from the two wires. Admire your bulging triceps afterward.
9. Work backwards from 8 through 1.
I found that for that *SOB* nut on top, a stubby handled swivel headed 3/8 socket wrench worked best. You know, the cheap ones you can get from Harbor Freight. It's not that bad, as long as you have the 6" extension.
#3
Yeah, I'm good on all that.... and my battery nuts are 8mm, btw. But I just don't know what starter to go with, and from where. I have been reading so much dispute on them... 2 bolt vs 3.... Mitsubishi style vs. Denso... High torque vs the 2.5Kw, etc... I'm lost.
I mean, is any basic NAPA, or O'reilly new starter going to be fine or what, you know?
I mean, is any basic NAPA, or O'reilly new starter going to be fine or what, you know?
#4
The common wisdom at FTE (at least on THIS forum) says to take your original starter to a good-quality electrical rebuilder in your town and have them go through it.
No NAPA, no O'Reilly, no Checker, etc. They are all pretty-much either made in China if new, or rebuilt in Mexico if rebuilt. The quality just isn't there, as they are building them "to a price", not "with quality in mind".
Your local rebuilder has his reputation to uphold. It's the future of his business.
The reason the others have a lifetime guarantee is that nobody would buy that crap (at all) if there wasn't that guarantee.
Pop
No NAPA, no O'Reilly, no Checker, etc. They are all pretty-much either made in China if new, or rebuilt in Mexico if rebuilt. The quality just isn't there, as they are building them "to a price", not "with quality in mind".
Your local rebuilder has his reputation to uphold. It's the future of his business.
The reason the others have a lifetime guarantee is that nobody would buy that crap (at all) if there wasn't that guarantee.
Pop
#5
#6
The common wisdom at FTE (at least on THIS forum) says to take your original starter to a good-quality electrical rebuilder in your town and have them go through it.
No NAPA, no O'Reilly, no Checker, etc. They are all pretty-much either made in China if new, or rebuilt in Mexico if rebuilt. The quality just isn't there, as they are building them "to a price", not "with quality in mind".
Your local rebuilder has his reputation to uphold. It's the future of his business.
The reason the others have a lifetime guarantee is that nobody would buy that crap (at all) if there wasn't that guarantee.
Pop
No NAPA, no O'Reilly, no Checker, etc. They are all pretty-much either made in China if new, or rebuilt in Mexico if rebuilt. The quality just isn't there, as they are building them "to a price", not "with quality in mind".
Your local rebuilder has his reputation to uphold. It's the future of his business.
The reason the others have a lifetime guarantee is that nobody would buy that crap (at all) if there wasn't that guarantee.
Pop
#7
Same-day service isn't unheard of, but you need to ask.
Pop
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#8
We have our local rebuilder on our Christmas card list, and we always give him back-strap first, after hunting season starts. We really appreciate all he does for us. He has a lifetime warranty, but we never get to use it. He only uses American-made parts. A true craftsman!
#10
I have a seemingly dumb question. Other than a stamp or sticker that says "FORD" on it, is their any identifying features on the OEM starter separating it from an auto parts store starter. Did I read it correctly that the OEM has 3 mounting holes? I'm only asking because I am about to chase down a slow cranking issue. Thanks for letting me hi-jack a little.
#11
I have a seemingly dumb question. Other than a stamp or sticker that says "FORD" on it, is their any identifying features on the OEM starter separating it from an auto parts store starter. Did I read it correctly that the OEM has 3 mounting holes? I'm only asking because I am about to chase down a slow cranking issue. Thanks for letting me hi-jack a little.
#12
#13
One mounting bolt LESS. Guess they realized some savings in their production costs.
Or sumptin'....
Pop
#15
Powermaster 9051
FWIW - my 02 7.3 Excursion had its starter go out (2nd owner - not sure what I took out but it was a 2 bolt) and I replaced it with a Powermaster 9051. Seems like a quality starter (turns over much faster) but I’ll update if it gives me issues. One piece of advice - I originally installed it without the included spacer. I had seen a YT install with a similar NippoDenso starter that used the spacer and the distance was off on a 00 F-250. USE the spacer if you install the Powermaster on a 02 Excursion. You’ll save yourself a lot of frustration.