It reminds me of when my OEM GPR died in 2009. I replaced it with that monster one from Mauser. I think it's six years to the month. Lots of smoke when cranking. Stumbling, but not quite starting, then a stumbling start.

Is it just a voltage test on one side upon initial glow? Do these big GPRs typically die faster than OEM?

I'm pushing 168k miles. Perhaps glow plugs are getting weak.

 

I had the similar symptoms a few years ago. Turned out to be my starter.

 

A quick test of the glow plugs is to remove the 9 pin harness plugs from the VC gaskets and check the GP pins for continuity with a test light connected to the positive battery terminal. Those that do not light (ground) are burned out.

 

Ye ol test light, so easy to forget that basic tool that can do so much.

I honestly forgot I owned one, thanks for the reminder Roland. It is going to get moved back to the "all the time" drawer in my roll away so I can remember to reach for it more often.

 

Any codes showing up like the P 380?

 

A Test Light is a good means of determining Voltage is present. However, that's about it. A DVOM will not only let one know voltage is present but how much voltage.

In this case, the amount of system voltage tells the story. A Test Light will light on both poles of the GPR. But, the amount of voltage traveling (current) is necessary to determine the health of the GPR Contacts.

Some Diagnostic Procedures: Begin with #10

echo=on
HARD START/NO START DIAGNOSTICS

**NOTE: A hard start/ No start concern with EOT Temp. Below 60F perform step 10 first.

Tools: Fuel Filter Cap Removal Tool / Flash Light / Tools Flash Light / White Bond Paper / Stop or Wrist Watch w/Secong Hand Sweep / DVOM

Step #1: Visual Engine/Chassis Inspection

Tools: Flash Light

Fuel Oil Coolant Electrical Hoses Leaks Check

Tools: White Bond Paper

Step #2 Check for contaminates Correct Grade and Viscosity Miles/Hours on oil, correct level.

Step #3 Intake/Exhaust Restriction

Tools Flash Light
Inspect air filter and ducts -exhaust system / Inspect exhaust back pressure device

Step #4 Sufficient Clean Fuel

Tools: Fuel Filter Cap Removal Tool

a. Check if the WATER IN FUEL lamp has been illuminated.
b. After verifying that there is fuel in the tank, drain a sample from fuel filter housing at
key on.
c. NOTE: Fuel pump will run for 20 sec. at key on

Step #5 Electric Fuel Pump Pressure

Tools: DVOM / Fuel Port Adaptor and Pressure Gauge 0-160 PSIG

a. Verify that the fuel pump has voltage and gnd. present at key on.
b. Measure fuel pressure at the Fuel Bowl Test Port key on.
c. Instrument Spec. 45 PSIG min. / WOT Under Load =/> 42 PSIG.

Step #6 Perform KOEO On Demand Test

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool

DTCs set during this test are current faults.
Note: IDM DTCs displayed here could be current or historical faults

Step #7 Retrieve Continuous Trouble Codes

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool

DTCs retrieved during this test are historical faults. Note: IDM DTCs are cleared when codes are cleared.

Step #8 KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool.

a. All injectors will momentarily buzz, then individual injectors will buzz in sequence 1 through 8. IDM DTCs may be transmitted after test is completed.
b. Note: IDM DTCs may be historical if not cleared above.

Step #9 Data List Monitoring

Tools: Bi-Dorectiona Scan Tool

1. Select the parameters indicated from the NGS parameter list and monitor while cranking engine.

Parameter/Spec:
a. V PWR / 10.5 volt min.
b. RPM / 100-150 RPM minimum
c. ICP / 500 PSI or 3.4mPa min.
d. ICPv / 0.25v – 0.30v
e. FUEL PW / 1 mS to 6mS
* V PWR -If indicating a low voltage condition, check battery voltage, charging system or power and ground circuits to the PCM. GO TO PINPOINT TEST A

* RPM -Low RPM could be an indication of starting/ charging system problems, RPM indicated with the engine cranking -could be CMP circuit fault, check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes. GO TO PINPOINT TEST DG

*ICP -A minimum of 500 PSI (3.4 mPa) is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the reservoir, system leakage, injector O-Rings or faulty IPR could cause pressure loss.

*Go to section 4 step 9c in the PC/ED Manual for a detailed description on how to perform this test. Note: If no RPM signal is received, IPR duty cycle will default to 14%

*FUEL PW -Even though a 1 to 6 mS FUEL PW is shown, it’s possible the IDM did not receive the signal due to a CI or FDCS circuit fault or internal IDM failure.

Step #10 Glow Plug System Operation

Tools: DVOM / Stop or Wrist Watch w/Secong Hand Sweep

a. Glow Plug ON time is dependent on oil temperature and altitude. The Glow Plug relay comes on between 1 and 120 sec. and does not come on at all if oil temp is above 131 F.
b. Verify that B+ is being supplied on the large BK/W wire going to the Glow Plug relay.
c. Install a voltmeter to the glow plug feed terminal (two brown wires or center terminal on the shunt).
d. Using a Bi-Directional Scan Tool and EOT PID’s, verify glow plug "on" time.
e. Turn key to run position, measure voltage ("on “time) (Dependent on oil temperature and altitude) Relay on time Spec. Measurement 1 to 120 seconds B +
f. Note: Wait to Start Lamp "on" time (1 -10 sec.) is independent from Glow Plug "on" time
g. Glow Plug Resistance
h. Remove both 9 pin connectors from valve covers • Measure each Glow Plug resistance to Bat. Ground. Measure engine harness resistance to relay. .1 to 2 ohms
i. Glow Plug Connector to relay 0 to 1 ohms
FRONT
#2 #1
#4 #3
#6 #5
#8 #7

*Add 5 seconds to glow plug on time when above 7000 feet in altitude, but not to exceed 120 seconds.
echo=off

 

IDK if I'm testing the GPR right. I have two large contacts that have 12.34V when the key is off. When turned on to glow, 11.45V at the lower little contact and nothing at upper little contact.

 

Found a decent writeup and I believe my GPR is working properly. This would mean my GPs are suspect. This means removing the VCs and since that's the case, more things to replace.

 

Try this test... Take you DMM and place the leads across the 2 large terminals on the GPR. Have someone turn the key to energize it. The closer to 0 the better the contacts on the relay. This test measures voltage drop across the relay which is affected by pitted contacts. I have a DC ampprobe as well and full draw on 8 good glow plus can be close to 100 amps. I did both tests to a freinds truck some time ago and it determined that his Stancor relay was fine the glow plugs were at the end of their life.

 

I did that and I believe it was 0.07V.

 

That is a near perfect reading Jason. Your GPR is fine then. Use only the Motorcraft GP's as you know the Autolights have a habit of the tip expanding and breaking off when you go to remove them. They are not to bad to install at all.

 

Yep, Motorcraft/Beru IIRC from doing my IDI's GPs.

On colder mornings it takes three cranks to fire. Upon firing, there's a huge plume of white/grey smoke that has a very heavy fuel smell. Usually some blue as well, but I believe my injector orings are weak. To be expected at 15 y/o and 168,0000 miles I suppose.

 

Testing Glow Plug Resistance:

h. Remove both 9 pin connectors from valve covers • Measure each Glow Plug resistance to Bat. Ground. Measure engine harness resistance to relay. .1 to 2 ohms
i. Glow Plug Connector to relay 0 to 1 ohms
FRONT
#2 #1
#4 #3
#6 #5
#8 #7

Testing GPR

 

What's the likelihood of breaking the 9-pin connectors? Isn't that why they have the $0.50 mod? Unfortunately, I don't have time to dive into pulling VCs today. If it can be done with very high probability of not breaking connectors, I might have time later this afternoon. If not, I'm buying a new set of GPs, new injector orings, AIS setup and making ready the $0.50 mod beforehand. Probably ready for repair the weekend after Easter.

 

Add a set of UVCH's to your list. The newer design does not require a 50 cent mod.