My ipr coolant filter insall
#1
02-23-2015, 11:13 PM
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My ipr coolant filter insall
Got my coolant filter in last week-super excited to get it installed! Open the box and the oil cooler manifold I was supposed to get wasn't in there-doh! Called Vince up and he sent it out right away and got my a tracking number within 10 minutes of hanging the phone up!
So here we are a week later with the manifold in hand!
Heres what came in the box (minus 3/4" heater hose and the oil cooler manifold)
This thing is beefy and looks pretty damn nice! Comes with two 3/4" fittings, the main filter manifold, mounting bracket for filter manifold, a 3 piece reusable filter, a piece of 3/4" heater hose (not pictured), 4 hose clamps, 2 self tapings screws and 2 screws to bolt the filter manifold onto the mount, and no instructions
Heres the three filter in pieces apart As you see the filter head unscrews (they sell an additional tool to seperate the two filter halves to get to the reusable filter)
Now-from there I wrapped the two 3/4" fittings in Teflon tape (I REALLY think a small roll of this should be included or the fittings should come pre installed with Teflon tape on them) a roll is only $0.99 and you barely use any of it, luckily I had a roll laying around, so no big deal. I wrapped em up me used a big open end wrench to tighten them up. There's also a large Allen head plug on the side that I've read people recommend wrapping in Teflon tape too, however I don't own a large enough Allen tool to remove It, so I didnt wrap it.
After my fittings were wrapped and installed I mounted up the filter bracket-in my truck I have a black plastic box mounted on the inner wheel well with vacuum lines, this thing takes up a bit of space and unfortunately made it so my filter had to sit higher then I wanted it to-but it works and the hood still closes.
So what I did was I held it up and marked 2 spots with a sharpie and drilled two small pilot holes, then used my roybi impact gun to bolt it down with the included self tapping screws. Easy peasy.
Next thing was tackling the oil cooler manifold, the one I got isnt like the one they pictured on their website, the fittings and the manifold are all one piece and not threaded fittings like the one on their site.
Taking the oil cooler plate off-if you Havnt done it before-SUCKS. Breaking that back bolt loose the first time is a pita. I used a 1/4" open end wrench with a 30torx bit super glued in the end-worked to get that plate off! But it was HARD.
Now, trying to rebolt the manifold on is a whole different story...with those fittings now in the way it is nearly impossible to do.
What I did-is I super glued a t30 bit straight onto the back screw-and with that bit on there I could grip it just barely enough with my fat fingers to get the screw started and halfway threaded in-before the bit came unglued-in theory if the bit stayed glued (needed more dry time) I could of gotten it threaded all the way and got a 1/4" ratcheting open end wrench and slid it over the glued on bit to tighten it down and that would of worked, then after it was torqued down break the glue and get the bit off. But-mine came unglued and ruined my genius plan so I was stuck fighting it in.
I got it on there-but on my test drive it leaked didnt get it tight enough. Tried to tighten it more today but not sure how much more I got it (theres absolutely no clearance between the massive 3/4" fittings an turbo to get my hand down in there to tighten it.
ill find out tomorrow if it leaks-ran out of time today.
My recomendation-pull the turbo. I spent 5x more time messing with it then it would of taken me to pull the damn turbo.
What has me wondering though-is if the original manifold design where the fittings screwed in-gave you more clearance to get to that back bolt then this new version does?
Pic of stock oil cooler plate vs ipr's 3/4" manifold
After that major pita is bolted on-all you have left is to cut the included 3/4" heater hose in half-throw it in the fittings and tighten the hose clamps-then check for leaks.
All in all this is a nicely made kit, ill update this in a few miles with pics of the filter to see what kind of nasties it caught.
Here's my only 3 "short comings" I had with this product.
1.) price-its a lot but quality costs money. A lot of R&D went into this bad boy.
2.) no Teflon tape included-is cheap to buy but inconvenient If you have to run and buy it.
3.) no instructions included-however there website has a set but I think it should be sent with the kit.
Just Very minor things.
But it's still a very nice kit, looks great, under my hood almost puts those blinged out Honda ricers to shame now! Lol
So here we are a week later with the manifold in hand!
Heres what came in the box (minus 3/4" heater hose and the oil cooler manifold)
This thing is beefy and looks pretty damn nice! Comes with two 3/4" fittings, the main filter manifold, mounting bracket for filter manifold, a 3 piece reusable filter, a piece of 3/4" heater hose (not pictured), 4 hose clamps, 2 self tapings screws and 2 screws to bolt the filter manifold onto the mount, and no instructions
Heres the three filter in pieces apart As you see the filter head unscrews (they sell an additional tool to seperate the two filter halves to get to the reusable filter)
Now-from there I wrapped the two 3/4" fittings in Teflon tape (I REALLY think a small roll of this should be included or the fittings should come pre installed with Teflon tape on them) a roll is only $0.99 and you barely use any of it, luckily I had a roll laying around, so no big deal. I wrapped em up me used a big open end wrench to tighten them up. There's also a large Allen head plug on the side that I've read people recommend wrapping in Teflon tape too, however I don't own a large enough Allen tool to remove It, so I didnt wrap it.
After my fittings were wrapped and installed I mounted up the filter bracket-in my truck I have a black plastic box mounted on the inner wheel well with vacuum lines, this thing takes up a bit of space and unfortunately made it so my filter had to sit higher then I wanted it to-but it works and the hood still closes.
So what I did was I held it up and marked 2 spots with a sharpie and drilled two small pilot holes, then used my roybi impact gun to bolt it down with the included self tapping screws. Easy peasy.
Next thing was tackling the oil cooler manifold, the one I got isnt like the one they pictured on their website, the fittings and the manifold are all one piece and not threaded fittings like the one on their site.
Taking the oil cooler plate off-if you Havnt done it before-SUCKS. Breaking that back bolt loose the first time is a pita. I used a 1/4" open end wrench with a 30torx bit super glued in the end-worked to get that plate off! But it was HARD.
Now, trying to rebolt the manifold on is a whole different story...with those fittings now in the way it is nearly impossible to do.
What I did-is I super glued a t30 bit straight onto the back screw-and with that bit on there I could grip it just barely enough with my fat fingers to get the screw started and halfway threaded in-before the bit came unglued-in theory if the bit stayed glued (needed more dry time) I could of gotten it threaded all the way and got a 1/4" ratcheting open end wrench and slid it over the glued on bit to tighten it down and that would of worked, then after it was torqued down break the glue and get the bit off. But-mine came unglued and ruined my genius plan so I was stuck fighting it in.
I got it on there-but on my test drive it leaked
didnt get it tight enough. Tried to tighten it more today but not sure how much more I got it (theres absolutely no clearance between the massive 3/4" fittings an turbo to get my hand down in there to tighten it. ill find out tomorrow if it leaks-ran out of time today.
My recomendation-pull the turbo. I spent 5x more time messing with it then it would of taken me to pull the damn turbo.
What has me wondering though-is if the original manifold design where the fittings screwed in-gave you more clearance to get to that back bolt then this new version does?
Pic of stock oil cooler plate vs ipr's 3/4" manifold
After that major pita is bolted on-all you have left is to cut the included 3/4" heater hose in half-throw it in the fittings and tighten the hose clamps-then check for leaks.
All in all this is a nicely made kit, ill update this in a few miles with pics of the filter to see what kind of nasties it caught.
Here's my only 3 "short comings" I had with this product.
1.) price-its a lot but quality costs money. A lot of R&D went into this bad boy.
2.) no Teflon tape included-is cheap to buy but inconvenient If you have to run and buy it.
3.) no instructions included-however there website has a set but I think it should be sent with the kit.
Just Very minor things.
But it's still a very nice kit, looks great, under my hood almost puts those blinged out Honda ricers to shame now! Lol
#3
02-24-2015, 07:48 AM
Nope, their web site shows it installed that way. 
Other brands come with (albeit optional) valves to isolate the filter/housing to replace the filter w/o loosing too much coolant. Having this filter inverted seems like it'd be a bit messy - but it IS easy to get too..
Once installed the Dieselsite coolant filter sits out of the way and the filter can be pre-filled to minimize air getting into the system, but to each his own.
Other brands come with (albeit optional) valves to isolate the filter/housing to replace the filter w/o loosing too much coolant. Having this filter inverted seems like it'd be a bit messy - but it IS easy to get too..
Once installed the Dieselsite coolant filter sits out of the way and the filter can be pre-filled to minimize air getting into the system, but to each his own.
#4
02-24-2015, 10:18 AM
Cargo Master
#5
02-24-2015, 10:27 AM
Senior User
I also installed this kit 2 weeks ago. The fittings going into the filter manifold on mine were brass (no teflon needed). I ordered mine with the shut-off valves, but honestly, there just isn't room for them in there, I used the standard fittings instead. It does install filter up, but it is higher than the rest of the cooling system, so very little spills out, just what is in the filter. Put several paper towels down under it and it will catch it, Or pull the drain plug on manifold and pour it into a cup to re-use what comes out. The turbo will be almost impossible to get out after the manifold is installed on the oil cooler cover.
#6
02-24-2015, 12:51 PM
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also installed this kit 2 weeks ago. The fittings going into the filter manifold on mine were brass (no teflon needed). I ordered mine with the shut-off valves, but honestly, there just isn't room for them in there, I used the standard fittings instead. It does install filter up, but it is higher than the rest of the cooling system, so very little spills out, just what is in the filter. Put several paper towels down under it and it will catch it, Or pull the drain plug on manifold and pour it into a cup to re-use what comes out. The turbo will be almost impossible to get out after the manifold is installed on the oil cooler cover.
#7
02-24-2015, 01:17 PM
Freshman User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: el monte, ca
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The instructions are on our website, it's a link just above the pricing on the coolant filter page.
I recommend draining about 1 gal of coolant from the radiator drain valve, there should be very little coolant loss when the filter is removed.
Tip, use a racheting 1/4 drive gear wrench with a torx bit to install/remove rear bolt. Also helps is the intake hose is removed.
I recommend draining about 1 gal of coolant from the radiator drain valve, there should be very little coolant loss when the filter is removed.
Tip, use a racheting 1/4 drive gear wrench with a torx bit to install/remove rear bolt. Also helps is the intake hose is removed.
Trending Topics
#8
02-24-2015, 02:10 PM
Senior User
#10
02-25-2015, 12:11 PM
Senior User
#11
02-25-2015, 05:26 PM
Junior User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Jasper, Texas
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got my coolant filter in last week-super excited to get it installed! Open the box and the oil cooler manifold I was supposed to get wasn't in there-doh! Called Vince up and he sent it out right away and got my a tracking number within 10 minutes of hanging the phone up!
So here we are a week later with the manifold in hand!
Heres what came in the box (minus 3/4" heater hose and the oil cooler manifold)
This thing is beefy and looks pretty damn nice! Comes with two 3/4" fittings, the main filter manifold, mounting bracket for filter manifold, a 3 piece reusable filter, a piece of 3/4" heater hose (not pictured), 4 hose clamps, 2 self tapings screws and 2 screws to bolt the filter manifold onto the mount, and no instructions
Heres the three filter in pieces apart As you see the filter head unscrews (they sell an additional tool to seperate the two filter halves to get to the reusable filter)
Now-from there I wrapped the two 3/4" fittings in Teflon tape (I REALLY think a small roll of this should be included or the fittings should come pre installed with Teflon tape on them) a roll is only $0.99 and you barely use any of it, luckily I had a roll laying around, so no big deal. I wrapped em up me used a big open end wrench to tighten them up. There's also a large Allen head plug on the side that I've read people recommend wrapping in Teflon tape too, however I don't own a large enough Allen tool to remove It, so I didnt wrap it.
After my fittings were wrapped and installed I mounted up the filter bracket-in my truck I have a black plastic box mounted on the inner wheel well with vacuum lines, this thing takes up a bit of space and unfortunately made it so my filter had to sit higher then I wanted it to-but it works and the hood still closes.
So what I did was I held it up and marked 2 spots with a sharpie and drilled two small pilot holes, then used my roybi impact gun to bolt it down with the included self tapping screws. Easy peasy.
Next thing was tackling the oil cooler manifold, the one I got isnt like the one they pictured on their website, the fittings and the manifold are all one piece and not threaded fittings like the one on their site.
Taking the oil cooler plate off-if you Havnt done it before-SUCKS. Breaking that back bolt loose the first time is a pita. I used a 1/4" open end wrench with a 30torx bit super glued in the end-worked to get that plate off! But it was HARD.
Now, trying to rebolt the manifold on is a whole different story...with those fittings now in the way it is nearly impossible to do.
What I did-is I super glued a t30 bit straight onto the back screw-and with that bit on there I could grip it just barely enough with my fat fingers to get the screw started and halfway threaded in-before the bit came unglued-in theory if the bit stayed glued (needed more dry time) I could of gotten it threaded all the way and got a 1/4" ratcheting open end wrench and slid it over the glued on bit to tighten it down and that would of worked, then after it was torqued down break the glue and get the bit off. But-mine came unglued and ruined my genius plan so I was stuck fighting it in.
I got it on there-but on my test drive it leaked didnt get it tight enough. Tried to tighten it more today but not sure how much more I got it (theres absolutely no clearance between the massive 3/4" fittings an turbo to get my hand down in there to tighten it.
ill find out tomorrow if it leaks-ran out of time today.
My recomendation-pull the turbo. I spent 5x more time messing with it then it would of taken me to pull the damn turbo.
What has me wondering though-is if the original manifold design where the fittings screwed in-gave you more clearance to get to that back bolt then this new version does?
Pic of stock oil cooler plate vs ipr's 3/4" manifold
After that major pita is bolted on-all you have left is to cut the included 3/4" heater hose in half-throw it in the fittings and tighten the hose clamps-then check for leaks.
All in all this is a nicely made kit, ill update this in a few miles with pics of the filter to see what kind of nasties it caught.
Here's my only 3 "short comings" I had with this product.
1.) price-its a lot but quality costs money. A lot of R&D went into this bad boy.
2.) no Teflon tape included-is cheap to buy but inconvenient If you have to run and buy it.
3.) no instructions included-however there website has a set but I think it should be sent with the kit.
Just Very minor things.
But it's still a very nice kit, looks great, under my hood almost puts those blinged out Honda ricers to shame now! Lol
So here we are a week later with the manifold in hand!
Heres what came in the box (minus 3/4" heater hose and the oil cooler manifold)
This thing is beefy and looks pretty damn nice! Comes with two 3/4" fittings, the main filter manifold, mounting bracket for filter manifold, a 3 piece reusable filter, a piece of 3/4" heater hose (not pictured), 4 hose clamps, 2 self tapings screws and 2 screws to bolt the filter manifold onto the mount, and no instructions
Heres the three filter in pieces apart As you see the filter head unscrews (they sell an additional tool to seperate the two filter halves to get to the reusable filter)
Now-from there I wrapped the two 3/4" fittings in Teflon tape (I REALLY think a small roll of this should be included or the fittings should come pre installed with Teflon tape on them) a roll is only $0.99 and you barely use any of it, luckily I had a roll laying around, so no big deal. I wrapped em up me used a big open end wrench to tighten them up. There's also a large Allen head plug on the side that I've read people recommend wrapping in Teflon tape too, however I don't own a large enough Allen tool to remove It, so I didnt wrap it.
After my fittings were wrapped and installed I mounted up the filter bracket-in my truck I have a black plastic box mounted on the inner wheel well with vacuum lines, this thing takes up a bit of space and unfortunately made it so my filter had to sit higher then I wanted it to-but it works and the hood still closes.
So what I did was I held it up and marked 2 spots with a sharpie and drilled two small pilot holes, then used my roybi impact gun to bolt it down with the included self tapping screws. Easy peasy.
Next thing was tackling the oil cooler manifold, the one I got isnt like the one they pictured on their website, the fittings and the manifold are all one piece and not threaded fittings like the one on their site.
Taking the oil cooler plate off-if you Havnt done it before-SUCKS. Breaking that back bolt loose the first time is a pita. I used a 1/4" open end wrench with a 30torx bit super glued in the end-worked to get that plate off! But it was HARD.
Now, trying to rebolt the manifold on is a whole different story...with those fittings now in the way it is nearly impossible to do.
What I did-is I super glued a t30 bit straight onto the back screw-and with that bit on there I could grip it just barely enough with my fat fingers to get the screw started and halfway threaded in-before the bit came unglued-in theory if the bit stayed glued (needed more dry time) I could of gotten it threaded all the way and got a 1/4" ratcheting open end wrench and slid it over the glued on bit to tighten it down and that would of worked, then after it was torqued down break the glue and get the bit off. But-mine came unglued and ruined my genius plan so I was stuck fighting it in.
I got it on there-but on my test drive it leaked
didnt get it tight enough. Tried to tighten it more today but not sure how much more I got it (theres absolutely no clearance between the massive 3/4" fittings an turbo to get my hand down in there to tighten it. ill find out tomorrow if it leaks-ran out of time today.
My recomendation-pull the turbo. I spent 5x more time messing with it then it would of taken me to pull the damn turbo.
What has me wondering though-is if the original manifold design where the fittings screwed in-gave you more clearance to get to that back bolt then this new version does?
Pic of stock oil cooler plate vs ipr's 3/4" manifold
After that major pita is bolted on-all you have left is to cut the included 3/4" heater hose in half-throw it in the fittings and tighten the hose clamps-then check for leaks.
All in all this is a nicely made kit, ill update this in a few miles with pics of the filter to see what kind of nasties it caught.
Here's my only 3 "short comings" I had with this product.
1.) price-its a lot but quality costs money. A lot of R&D went into this bad boy.
2.) no Teflon tape included-is cheap to buy but inconvenient If you have to run and buy it.
3.) no instructions included-however there website has a set but I think it should be sent with the kit.
Just Very minor things.
But it's still a very nice kit, looks great, under my hood almost puts those blinged out Honda ricers to shame now! Lol
Thanks
#12
06-23-2015, 01:09 PM
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wanted to give this an update.
I Beieve my oil cooler was so plugged up before that barely any coolant would pass through the ipr filter.
This weekend I finally had someone replace my oil cooler and two injectors! Whoohoo!
On the drive home (15 miles)
Temps stayed around 8 degrees apart.
Next day I drove about 80 miles round trip city and highway pulling a 6x12 enclosed trailer. Oil temps were up to 230 on the way there. 235 highest on way back!
Figured I should check my cooant filter since its ran right off the cooant filter.
So pulled it off and here's what I saw
Lots and lots of nasty rust.
Cleaned it all out-hopefully the oil cooler didnt catch a lot of this.
I'm going to clean this filter daily and hope it clears up without doing any harm to the new cooler.
I Beieve my oil cooler was so plugged up before that barely any coolant would pass through the ipr filter.
This weekend I finally had someone replace my oil cooler and two injectors! Whoohoo!
On the drive home (15 miles)
Temps stayed around 8 degrees apart.
Next day I drove about 80 miles round trip city and highway pulling a 6x12 enclosed trailer. Oil temps were up to 230 on the way there. 235 highest on way back!
Figured I should check my cooant filter since its ran right off the cooant filter.
So pulled it off and here's what I saw
Lots and lots of nasty rust.
Cleaned it all out-hopefully the oil cooler didnt catch a lot of this.
I'm going to clean this filter daily and hope it clears up without doing any harm to the new cooler.
#13
06-23-2015, 02:05 PM
#14
06-23-2015, 04:31 PM
Cargo Master
Unfortunately his cooler may be plugged again, the coolant filter comes after the oil cooler when cooler is left in the stock position, if he used the IPR relocated cooler the coolant filter would be in front of the oil cooler and prevent it from stopping up. When I decided on my external oil cooler this was the reason why.
#15
06-23-2015, 08:04 PM
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did a few flushes a month o so ago.
I'm hoping the filter was just plugged up and restricting flow through the oil cooler. We'll see on my next highway run.