Front wheel spacers needed?
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Colorado Springs
Front wheel spacers needed?
Hey all,
So I got the front end on my 50 F3 all done. Converted to a disc brake system from CPP. I found that when I turn to the left at full lock, the tires rub against the pitman arm. Has anyone else had this happen? Did you use spacers to push the wheels out for more clearance?
So I got the front end on my 50 F3 all done. Converted to a disc brake system from CPP. I found that when I turn to the left at full lock, the tires rub against the pitman arm. Has anyone else had this happen? Did you use spacers to push the wheels out for more clearance?
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Colorado Springs
The CPP kit is great and really easy to install. Took me about 3 hours. I used a 1975 E150 Ford van booster and master cyl and mounted it on the firewall. i used some 10 inch by 10 inch plate on each side of the firewall for reinforcement.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Way too much missing info to answer: undropped axle? steel or aluminum wheels? wheel diameter and offset? wheel width? tire size?
I'd expect the best solution is 544tess's advice.
I'd expect the best solution is 544tess's advice.
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Senior User
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From: Colorado Springs
Sorry Ax....here is the info I have. The wheels are stock 1990 E150 steel van wheels. I am not sure of the offset right now because the truck is not in my garage as we speak, but if I had to guess I would say 2 inches maybe. I believe the rim width is 6 inches (stock). The tire and wheel combo are stock 225 75R 15. The axle is stock but I do have the Posies super slide drop spring up front which is supposed to drop it 3 inches over the stock spring pack. My thought is that even the small offset that is probably present on the stock wheels is more than what the original wheels had and that is just enough to make contact with the pitman arm on a full left lock turn.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Colorado Springs
Can you tell me what brand and how thick they are? I am looking at some from Speedway Motors that are 1.25" thick. They call them "adapters" even though they are the same 5.5 to 5.5 bolt pattern. I used some Spidertrax on my 2007 Jeep Rubicon years ago when I went with larger tires because of frame rub and never had a problem with them.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I would first stack washers on the lugs and see how much it takes to give adequate clearance. You can buy inexpensive 1/4" universal aluminum spacers that slip over the lugs at most auto parts stores if that is enough, and you can use the original lug nuts as long as the lugs extend out at least one thread beyond the nuts. I use them on the Solstice when racing as allowed in the rules just to give the car 1/2" wider tread width. When racing at national level you use even the smallest advantages allowed.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Colorado Springs
I would first stack washers on the lugs and see how much it takes to give adequate clearance. You can buy inexpensive 1/4" universal aluminum spacers that slip over the lugs at most auto parts stores if that is enough, and you can use the original lug nuts as long as the lugs extend out at least one thread beyond the nuts. I use them on the Solstice when racing as allowed in the rules just to give the car 1/2" wider tread width. When racing at national level you use even the smallest advantages allowed.
Here is a side shot...although from a distance, but I think I could use some pretty hefty spacing to put the tires out toward the fender lip.
Last edited by tjdad62; Feb 22, 2015 at 11:23 AM. Reason: added pic
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Central Oregon
I guess I went with the easy solution. I made a stop from angle iron with a gusset and adjusted it so that it would stop the pitman arm from moving far enough to contact the tire. Didn't really decrease my turning radius in that direction by much so it works for me.
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