Seeking reliable driveway mechanic or shop for AC Evaporator replacement.
#1
Seeking reliable driveway mechanic or shop for AC Evaporator replacement.
Hi everyone, not sure if I'm posting this in the right section, but I need to get my AC Evaporator replaced in my 2008 Ford Explorer. The dealership is quoting about $1700 to get this done, $1300 of which is labor. I used to be part of the Supra community and we had a couple semi-professional mechanics that worked out of their driveways for lower rates and with arguably better work. Do we know of anyone like this in the MD or Northern VA that services this community? Currently located in the Bailey's Crossroads section of Falls Church. Thanks for your help.
#2
Hi everyone, not sure if I'm posting this in the right section, but I need to get my AC Evaporator replaced in my 2008 Ford Explorer. The dealership is quoting about $1700 to get this done, $1300 of which is labor. I used to be part of the Supra community and we had a couple semi-professional mechanics that worked out of their driveways for lower rates and with arguably better work. Do we know of anyone like this in the MD or Northern VA that services this community? Currently located in the Bailey's Crossroads section of Falls Church. Thanks for your help.
Hopefully others will chime in and help you out.
#4
Problem with an EVAP is that it is likely going to call for a complete dash rip-out to do the job right. One avenue that might be worth looking at is to have your system completely discharged by a licensed A/C tech, get the new part, and do the dash panel takedown yourself, install the new unit, and then take it to have it serviced and charged.
It would be a great opportunity to replace any o-ring seals in it to guard against future leaks, and you should also at least think about replacing the receiver/drier and orifice valve at the same time.
I have done this before with several different machines both ford and "other". So long as the system is empty of refrigerant you can do 99% of the job yourself and save hugely. It also ensures that no 'hotshots' at a dealer or elsewhere cut corners or leave things out to save time or because they really have no idea what they are about.
Another thing I have found in many such is that the ducting is sometimes not well fitted together, I have found huge open gaps that seriously downgraded HVAC performance.
It gives you a chance to see for yourself what's what up under there, and make anything right that isn't, or also improve things.
Be prepared to spend every bit of an entire weekend on the teardown and refit though - and have a few cans of generic black spray paint handy in case you find parts that are bare metal that could use a coat of rust preventive paint.
MOST OF a dash panel can be removed as a unit. There are fasteners along the bottom of the windshield, and down on the sides around the kick panels. The steering shaft will be bolted to the dash. There will be a number of multi-wire connectors that can be undone instead of dismounting units in the panel. Look for things that can be left in place but unplugged so that you limit what you take apart, and use a notebook to make a checklist of things that have to be connected back later.
In the best scenario you may be able to slide the panel back far enough to get at the evap housing without taking the dash completely out.
*DEFINITELY use ziplock bags to keep track of any and all fasteners you remove. FILE cards are great for marking down where nuts and bolts came from because you can put them in the baggies with the nuts bolts and screws.
* When in doubt - snap a picture of things before you take them apart. It can be a sanity saver...
"What the heck is this?"
"I dunno..."
"Where did it come from?"
"Somewhere in there...."
"I'm NOT taking this whole thing apart again! I'm just not..."
It would be a great opportunity to replace any o-ring seals in it to guard against future leaks, and you should also at least think about replacing the receiver/drier and orifice valve at the same time.
I have done this before with several different machines both ford and "other". So long as the system is empty of refrigerant you can do 99% of the job yourself and save hugely. It also ensures that no 'hotshots' at a dealer or elsewhere cut corners or leave things out to save time or because they really have no idea what they are about.
Another thing I have found in many such is that the ducting is sometimes not well fitted together, I have found huge open gaps that seriously downgraded HVAC performance.
It gives you a chance to see for yourself what's what up under there, and make anything right that isn't, or also improve things.
Be prepared to spend every bit of an entire weekend on the teardown and refit though - and have a few cans of generic black spray paint handy in case you find parts that are bare metal that could use a coat of rust preventive paint.
MOST OF a dash panel can be removed as a unit. There are fasteners along the bottom of the windshield, and down on the sides around the kick panels. The steering shaft will be bolted to the dash. There will be a number of multi-wire connectors that can be undone instead of dismounting units in the panel. Look for things that can be left in place but unplugged so that you limit what you take apart, and use a notebook to make a checklist of things that have to be connected back later.
In the best scenario you may be able to slide the panel back far enough to get at the evap housing without taking the dash completely out.
*DEFINITELY use ziplock bags to keep track of any and all fasteners you remove. FILE cards are great for marking down where nuts and bolts came from because you can put them in the baggies with the nuts bolts and screws.
* When in doubt - snap a picture of things before you take them apart. It can be a sanity saver...
"What the heck is this?"
"I dunno..."
"Where did it come from?"
"Somewhere in there...."
"I'm NOT taking this whole thing apart again! I'm just not..."
#5
#6
Problem with an EVAP is that it is likely going to call for a complete dash rip-out to do the job right. One avenue that might be worth looking at is to have your system completely discharged by a licensed A/C tech, get the new part, and do the dash panel takedown yourself, install the new unit, and then take it to have it serviced and charged.
It would be a great opportunity to replace any o-ring seals in it to guard against future leaks, and you should also at least think about replacing the receiver/drier and orifice valve at the same time.
I have done this before with several different machines both ford and "other". So long as the system is empty of refrigerant you can do 99% of the job yourself and save hugely. It also ensures that no 'hotshots' at a dealer or elsewhere cut corners or leave things out to save time or because they really have no idea what they are about.
Another thing I have found in many such is that the ducting is sometimes not well fitted together, I have found huge open gaps that seriously downgraded HVAC performance.
It gives you a chance to see for yourself what's what up under there, and make anything right that isn't, or also improve things.
Be prepared to spend every bit of an entire weekend on the teardown and refit though - and have a few cans of generic black spray paint handy in case you find parts that are bare metal that could use a coat of rust preventive paint.
MOST OF a dash panel can be removed as a unit. There are fasteners along the bottom of the windshield, and down on the sides around the kick panels. The steering shaft will be bolted to the dash. There will be a number of multi-wire connectors that can be undone instead of dismounting units in the panel. Look for things that can be left in place but unplugged so that you limit what you take apart, and use a notebook to make a checklist of things that have to be connected back later.
In the best scenario you may be able to slide the panel back far enough to get at the evap housing without taking the dash completely out.
*DEFINITELY use ziplock bags to keep track of any and all fasteners you remove. FILE cards are great for marking down where nuts and bolts came from because you can put them in the baggies with the nuts bolts and screws.
* When in doubt - snap a picture of things before you take them apart. It can be a sanity saver...
"What the heck is this?"
"I dunno..."
"Where did it come from?"
"Somewhere in there...."
"I'm NOT taking this whole thing apart again! I'm just not..."
It would be a great opportunity to replace any o-ring seals in it to guard against future leaks, and you should also at least think about replacing the receiver/drier and orifice valve at the same time.
I have done this before with several different machines both ford and "other". So long as the system is empty of refrigerant you can do 99% of the job yourself and save hugely. It also ensures that no 'hotshots' at a dealer or elsewhere cut corners or leave things out to save time or because they really have no idea what they are about.
Another thing I have found in many such is that the ducting is sometimes not well fitted together, I have found huge open gaps that seriously downgraded HVAC performance.
It gives you a chance to see for yourself what's what up under there, and make anything right that isn't, or also improve things.
Be prepared to spend every bit of an entire weekend on the teardown and refit though - and have a few cans of generic black spray paint handy in case you find parts that are bare metal that could use a coat of rust preventive paint.
MOST OF a dash panel can be removed as a unit. There are fasteners along the bottom of the windshield, and down on the sides around the kick panels. The steering shaft will be bolted to the dash. There will be a number of multi-wire connectors that can be undone instead of dismounting units in the panel. Look for things that can be left in place but unplugged so that you limit what you take apart, and use a notebook to make a checklist of things that have to be connected back later.
In the best scenario you may be able to slide the panel back far enough to get at the evap housing without taking the dash completely out.
*DEFINITELY use ziplock bags to keep track of any and all fasteners you remove. FILE cards are great for marking down where nuts and bolts came from because you can put them in the baggies with the nuts bolts and screws.
* When in doubt - snap a picture of things before you take them apart. It can be a sanity saver...
"What the heck is this?"
"I dunno..."
"Where did it come from?"
"Somewhere in there...."
"I'm NOT taking this whole thing apart again! I'm just not..."
#7
When you do a thing like that - you know it isn't going to be as simple as a water pump, or replacing a cigar lighter. The machine is going to be out of action for however long it takes.
You should prepare for that, and if you have to do without, you should ensure that the whole thing is a job well done the first time.
That is why I do my own.
You should prepare for that, and if you have to do without, you should ensure that the whole thing is a job well done the first time.
That is why I do my own.
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