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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Parking light socket removal and dash light end

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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 03:36 PM
  #16  
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I would guess Ford used 16 ga simply for strength, not needed for current at either 6 or 12v.

You have to buy LED "bulbs" made for 6v, they're around. A caution tho, on dashboards they don't necessarily give as good of light, because they project their beam straight out, whereas the incandescents spread it all around, which the gauges were designed for. Considering an incandescent costs a buck or so and lasts 20 years in the dash, not sure I'd bother. Incandescents have a "warmer" light, too.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 03:50 PM
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Actually, IIRC, LEDs operate at 3.3 vdc. So if you get one that works in a 6 volt or 12 volt system, the voltage is dropped to around 3.3 volts for the LED to work.

At least that's how I remember it...
 
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 08:45 PM
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Really guys!!!! Dang, you got me looking at LED bulbs.

Lots of great info, that's for sure.
I hadn't thought about using a thicker gauge wire for durability. That makes sense, these trucks were work trucks. Having wiring problem wouldn't have looked good for old Henry.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 12:09 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Harrier
Really guys!!!! Dang, you got me looking at LED bulbs.

Lots of great info, that's for sure.
I hadn't thought about using a thicker gauge wire for durability. That makes sense, these trucks were work trucks. Having wiring problem wouldn't have looked good for old Henry.
I still have filament bulbs everywhere in my truck except the taillights. I put LEDs there because the 6 volt filament bulbs were too dim.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 01:13 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Harrier
Really guys!!!! Dang, you got me looking at LED bulbs.

Lots of great info, that's for sure.
I hadn't thought about using a thicker gauge wire for durability. That makes sense, these trucks were work trucks. Having wiring problem wouldn't have looked good for old Henry.
Also remember that our truck's wiring was run thru self resetting circuit breakers rather than fuses. If a wire shorted out the breaker would trip then reset sending current thru the shorted wire until it tripped again and so on, so the wires could be heated and cooled many times if the short wasn't fixed.
 
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