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Didn't get as much done today as I'd hoped ... the other day, after finishing the oil drain, I went to fill the engine with oil and noticed the valve covers were leaking. I had torqued the bolts to the torque spec when installing, but tried tightening them a bit more ... bad idea: I twisted one off - turns out the bolts I had were just a touch too long (3/4") and bottomed out in the holes. I figured that out and got new, shorter (5/8") bolts. So, today after work, I set about fixing that issue.
And ... broke off a drill bit in the bolt just as I was finished drilling through it:
I was eventually able to work it out, using some of my dental-style picks ... broke the tip off one in the process, but once the drill bit was out of the way, I was able to get the bolt out with a screw extractor - may be the first time that's actually worked for me rather than breaking off and causing a bigger problem, but given that everything was new and hadn't been heat-cycled, I figured it was worth a try.
Got the valve covers reinstalled with shorter bolts and all should be well there; just ran out of time to do anything else, with having to deal with the broken drill bit.
Since I had some questions on details in other threads, here's a little more info on my oil drain setup - here's an angle that shows the solenoid valve mounting a little better:
Most of my time today was spent trying to get the shift linkage setup right. I had bought the Lokar column shift kit for its reconfigurable transmission shifter lever. Unfortunately, that lever is too short too (unless I only want about half the range of motion on the column shifter)! To Lokar's credit, in this case, the factory shift lever on the transmission would've had the same problem, and is actually even shorter than the Lokar one, so I would've had to address this issue either way.
The included stainless steel rod was also just a bit too short once I bent it to the right angles (again, it was longer than the factory linkage, but not by enough), so I will be replacing it with a 5/16" steel rod from Lowe's - need to thread one end as 5/16-24 UNF and bend it to shape/cut it to length, then I'll have this part of the setup complete.
I've got the wiring back in the truck - other than the oil drain setup, I'm finished there. Remaining are getting the driveshaft modified and detailing the front clip before it goes back on.
Oh, I also found a source for the ~1.5"x3" oval body plugs that go in the holes in the firewall that sit behind the fenders (at the sides of this picture) - no not a current picture, but it shows what I'm talking about
I struck out with Dennis Carpenter, LMC, et al., but MAC's sells them for about $4 each. Ordered replacements today, since my originals are as hard as a rock.
Not a lot of visible progress ... I got the driveshaft measurements I need and picked up new U-joints in preparation for heading to the driveline shop this week to get a longer driveshaft made.
I did get some of the interior put back together - instrument cluster looks much better now that the lens is actually transparent:
I want to do something about this rust before I reinstall the glovebox - that's why I have the trim ring off. Didn't have time to get started on it today though.
Yeah ... I started hearing a metallic grinding sound like pads were worn out yesterday - right rear had 1/4" left, and left rear was down to the metal. Ran by the auto parts store after work today to get new pads, rotors, and LR caliper (and a fuel filter since it's a PITA to get to up above the IRS and I've got the rear end of the car up in the air anyway to do this). Got the parts for the front too, since it's getting close.
... and it keeps coming: didn't realize until after I got home and the auto parts store was closed, but they gave me the wrong &#*$ rear rotors. So I can't get it put back together until tomorrow - have to drive the wife's Corolla in the meantime. At least it's available though: I don't have to put the bad parts back on to drive the Mustang to the parts store. At least I got the fuel filter changed while I was under there ... accomplished something that way.
Yeah, the rear calipers have to twist in instead of using a C-clamp, due to the parking brake mechanism. It is a bit of a pain. Fortunately, since I'm replacing the one stuck caliper anyway, I'll only have to do it on the other side. Plan to pick up the (correct) rotors on my way home from work today and get it back together tonight.
04-29-2015, 10:34 PM
