2001 King Ranch with 5.4L Full Battery but No Start! UPDATE: Bad Starter
#1
2001 King Ranch with 5.4L Full Battery but No Start! UPDATE: Bad Starter
UPDATE: Bad Starter - Getting one from junkyard for $35 vs. $175 brand new or $150 remanufactured...
I see there is another thread, but his seemed fuel pump related (?) and mine is a different issue!
Drove it for hours yesterday. It sat overnight. In the morning I turn the key and I get the "click" but no starting sound, just a click.
I thought maybe it was a bad battery and connected cables...Nothing, just click. Battery is 100%, lights work, dash lights up, etc.
I attempted to eye the fuses both under hood and under steering wheel and they looked in tact.
What fuses/relays are starter-related? My cousin doesn't think the starter would just magically go to nothing, it would be intermittent, so it must be a loose connection or blown fuse/relay (I did spray the ice off in the wheel wells the same day)....
Thanks.
I see there is another thread, but his seemed fuel pump related (?) and mine is a different issue!
Drove it for hours yesterday. It sat overnight. In the morning I turn the key and I get the "click" but no starting sound, just a click.
I thought maybe it was a bad battery and connected cables...Nothing, just click. Battery is 100%, lights work, dash lights up, etc.
I attempted to eye the fuses both under hood and under steering wheel and they looked in tact.
What fuses/relays are starter-related? My cousin doesn't think the starter would just magically go to nothing, it would be intermittent, so it must be a loose connection or blown fuse/relay (I did spray the ice off in the wheel wells the same day)....
Thanks.
#4
#5
You have several relays in the engine control box. I would take the starter relay and swap it with one of the others and see if that corrects it. I have a 2002 Ranger 3.0 that has had some electrical problems. Non shift was caused by a burnt out turn signal bulb. (I know, but there is a common fuse in the trans circuit and turn signals, go figure) Dead battery was caused by A/C relay failure allow power to clutch with switch off. A bad relay will get you every time
#6
I crawled underneath and touched the wires connected to the starter. They all seemed tight. Keep in mind this is the first time I've looked at a starter so I don't really know what I'm doing.
Which relays should I swap? Underneath the steering wheel or under the hood and which ones? Trying to find a diagram now...
Which relays should I swap? Underneath the steering wheel or under the hood and which ones? Trying to find a diagram now...
#7
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#8
#9
Is it likely (or possible) that it would start fine everytime. And then randomly one morning you get a click and starter overnight is blown?
#12
Follow closely.
There are NO relays in the fuse box that control the start circuit.
Why? As you go to cranking, the ignition switch supplies power to the start solenoid on the fire wall through the transmission switch in either Neutral or Park position.
Since you hear the start solenoid click, this circuit is good.
When the start solenoid closes it's heavy internal contacts, power is passed from the battery to the starter on the heavy cables.
In the starter, another solenoid is activated to move the starter gear outward to engage the flywheel as well as run the starter motor.
Now ask yourself from this, is the starter getting power or not?
Is the starter possibly faulty?
What else would you suspect except the cable between the start solenoid and the starter or it's connections?
Good luck.
There are NO relays in the fuse box that control the start circuit.
Why? As you go to cranking, the ignition switch supplies power to the start solenoid on the fire wall through the transmission switch in either Neutral or Park position.
Since you hear the start solenoid click, this circuit is good.
When the start solenoid closes it's heavy internal contacts, power is passed from the battery to the starter on the heavy cables.
In the starter, another solenoid is activated to move the starter gear outward to engage the flywheel as well as run the starter motor.
Now ask yourself from this, is the starter getting power or not?
Is the starter possibly faulty?
What else would you suspect except the cable between the start solenoid and the starter or it's connections?
Good luck.
#13
Cousin crawled underneath with a screwdriver and a hammer.
It started and then wouldn't start after pulling key back out. Def the starter! We have all the bolts off (accessed from underneath) except the one on the top middle of the starter, which we suspect is the last one. We will probably have to take the tire off and the fender lining to access it, not sure though...
Found one used for $35 out of a 2006 Navigator (junk yard down the street) or $150 brand new. Gonna save a few bucks I think!
It started and then wouldn't start after pulling key back out. Def the starter! We have all the bolts off (accessed from underneath) except the one on the top middle of the starter, which we suspect is the last one. We will probably have to take the tire off and the fender lining to access it, not sure though...
Found one used for $35 out of a 2006 Navigator (junk yard down the street) or $150 brand new. Gonna save a few bucks I think!
#14
what I referred to as the relay is what you called the solenoid but you CAN NOT just look at a battery connection and say its ok starters need heavy current flow in order to work that means a good power and a good ground. also be sure the engine is not mechanically bound because if you cant turn it with a wrench then the starter cant either its doubtful but check anyway the starter probably is bad but just a few things to think about when diagnosing the issue
#15