Ok the update on my 92 4.0 oil leak problem which is the biggest problem on my truck. I washed it off two days ago underneath to get all the wet oil and sludge that has built up. I've had a shop replace the front crank seal 3 times but I helped when doing it and I'm not convinced it's the crank seal. It looks to be the front oil pan lip seal. As well it appears after two days of driving after washing the underneath the oil pan sides are leaking too as well as the rear main seal. Nothing coming from top down the backside yet after I washed it off. But coming right in the middle between the pan the transmission shield and transmission. What I'm finding out from the shops I've asked is no one want to do the job. I've read in all service manuals and even a Ford service CD manual used by Ford the engines have to come out just to change the pan gasket. I've looked on youtube but didn't see my particular year and didn't see anyone actually show what has to be done to remove the oil pan with the engine still in the truck. Eventhough I've heard it's possible from replies here. What has to be done to redo the oil pan gasket with the engine still in the truck so I can prepare for what it's going to take so that I can talk to a mechanic shop that will do it? I checked a shop they said the labor rate to do it is like 7.5 hours. I will have the rear main seal replaced at the same time. But I just can't have my truck down for days with the engine out as it's my only transportation now. But I'm having to add 2-3 quarts oil every 3,000 miles because the Check Oil Light comes on. It's always wet under the truck with oil.

 

well I think I said before that the shop used just pulled the motor mounts loose and raised the engine enough to get the pan off. It helped that the trans was out as it was pulled originally gor what we thought was a laky rear main. Found leaks from vally and valve covers. While doing the job also found the pan gasket leaking a little. So they said they would do but not pull engine just lift it. They did and I had them replace the oil pump while they had the pan off. So yes it can be done in the truck just have to work at it.

 

I have a 98 Ranger with the 3.0. I changed out my rusted out oil pan and put a new pan gasket on at the same time that I replaced the clutch. The transmission was out of the way and the exhaust was disconnected from the manifolds. I unbolted the motor mounts and lifted the engine about 3 inches to gain enough clearance for the pan to come out. I didn't have to disconnect any wires or radiator/heater hoses. I did have to remove the fan shroud.

 

I looked at my oil leaks again today after driving all day yesterday and back and forth to work today. I'm still skeptical about the oil pan gasket being the problem. It appears to be that problem front timing cover seal that I've now replaced 3 times. It's throwing most of the oil back. But I do notice the oil between the transmission and engine. I washed under the engine and transmission really good Saturday afternoon. I sprayed all sides of the oil pan and transmission, above the steering gear box because I just changed the pump and lines. It still looks clean and dry on the driver's side of the oil pan flange but a little harder to tell on the passenger side oil pan flange because of all the brackets and lines in the way. However, there is like two oil pan bolts that always have oil on the head. You wipe them off and the next day they have a drop of oil on them again. I tried snugging up as many of the oil pan bolts I could get to about a month ago but they were all pretty much torqued down, no further tightening could be done. Now this front crank seal would stop awhole lot of the oil from leaking. But I don't know how to fix it now. I know some here have said to smooth the crank snout with some sandpaper. I didn't try that. I tried to Victor Reinz seals then went to a Ford seal and they all leaked right away. Is it the damper that is worn out or the crankshaft? I can't really tell what I'm looking for as far as wear groove on the damper snout or crank snout because I've never come across a problem like this. So I can't gauge what's bad or good as far as wear. Should I try the sleeve n seal crank seal kit or just get a new damper?

 

When last was the PCV valve replaced???? If it sticks, or is clogged up with deposits, an over pressure condition can blow oil out the weakest seal or gasket. If you have blow by from high mileage, that'll make things worse.