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Switching to a Holley 1848 465cfm.

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Old 03-29-2015, 11:45 AM
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A small update.
Now that it's a little warmer out, I've been getting around 13mpg around town, which I am totally pleased with.

Overall, I simply could not be more happy than I am with this carb. It's just so... perfect.
Even on cold mornings down in the 20s, there's very little, if any, bog off the line. It just takes off and goes. The power is smooth and there's plenty of it.


K, how is yours treating you? I'm curious what, if any, adjustments you've done to it.
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Old 03-29-2015, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordman75 View Post
They are a cool set up and it's hard to beat them for performance ( other then efi ) . But they are fun to tune and they aren't cheap! But you can set them up to do just about anything you want them to. It's been over a decade since I did anything with the Weber's. I believe they required some modifications for off-road use but it is doable. A Bronco with a 300 and triple Weber's sound good to me!!
I just finished looking over your build thread. That's quite a project you have going there. Did I see a set of triple Webers in there somewhere? What are/were your plans with those?
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco View Post
A small update.
Now that it's a little warmer out, I've been getting around 13mpg around town, which I am totally pleased with.

Overall, I simply could not be more happy than I am with this carb. It's just so... perfect.
Even on cold mornings down in the 20s, there's very little, if any, bog off the line. It just takes off and goes. The power is smooth and there's plenty of it.


K, how is yours treating you? I'm curious what, if any, adjustments you've done to it.
I am very happy with it. Apart from adjusting the mix I haven't done anything ... not even set the choke! (SoCal and we had heat wave of 90*, don't drive in the mornings). I haven't even installed the QF secondary yet. As AB said, strong responsive power and excellent mpg.

One issue I ran into: I pulled the radiator to repair, and after it was reinstalled I noticed I could not get heat from the heater to blow. At the same time the carb is stumbling a bit when cold. I believe them related of course. Either there is some sort of bubble lock preventing coolant from reaching the manifold and heater core, or the w/pump impellers are quite worn. Five years with steel impellers, can they deteriorate so quiickly?

Anyway, to answer AB inquiry: Great carb that I love. I only need to adjust the choke and get warmth to the intake.

Plan to remove the head and do work and replace header with efi's before the summer heat causes problems again.

I wanted to mention something: My fuel line is routed around the front of the v.cover and passes over the header heat area on way to carb. I tool SeattleSmitty's idea and crumbled aluminum foil around the line, and that keeps the fuel nice and cool. Great idea. It doesn't meet NHRA standards, but it works!
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  #64  
Old 03-29-2015, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco View Post
I just finished looking over your build thread. That's quite a project you have going there. Did I see a set of triple Webers in there somewhere? What are/were your plans with those?
Yep it's just a small project.

No Webers on this one. The Weber DCOE's I had were for a 81 Ford F100 flare side/step side 2wd truck I had. I sold them a long time ago.

My 54 it getting three Autolite 2100 1.02 2V's.
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Old 03-29-2015, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
I think the 3x2v or 6x1v would be the ultimate set up.

I really like how that spring attaches to the ball/stud, but I have had the one bolt type bracket pivot and loosen on the carb bolt. I could not get it to stop moving, so, I would prefer this type, and would probably have to convert fab up a fender washer and drill holes to attach spring to stud.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOLLEY-4150-4160-POLISHED-ALUMINUM-THROTTLE-CABLE-CARB-BRACKET-CARBURETOR-350-/130823372709?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e75ae3fa5&vxp=mtr
It holds both cable and springs and is clean, won't move. I would change the spring to the one inside the other, and, as said, use a fender washer over the stud/ball to attach. Yesterday these were all over ebay for $23 shipped! He who hesitates pays more.
I was looking into these yesterday and this morning I finally put my C series intake and the 465 I didn't even notice that it didn't have a place to hook the return spring on. Haha. I have yet to tune the carburetor hopefully tomorrow.
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  #66  
Old 03-30-2015, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
I am very happy with it. Apart from adjusting the mix I haven't done anything ... not even set the choke! (SoCal and we had heat wave of 90*, don't drive in the mornings). I haven't even installed the QF secondary yet. As AB said, strong responsive power and excellent mpg.

One issue I ran into: I pulled the radiator to repair, and after it was reinstalled I noticed I could not get heat from the heater to blow. At the same time the carb is stumbling a bit when cold. I believe them related of course. Either there is some sort of bubble lock preventing coolant from reaching the manifold and heater core, or the w/pump impellers are quite worn. Five years with steel impellers, can they deteriorate so quickly?

Anyway, to answer AB inquiry: Great carb that I love. I only need to adjust the choke and get warmth to the intake.

Plan to remove the head and do work and replace header with efi's before the summer heat causes problems again.

I wanted to mention something: My fuel line is routed around the front of the v.cover and passes over the header heat area on way to carb. I tool SeattleSmitty's idea and crumbled aluminum foil around the line, and that keeps the fuel nice and cool. Great idea. It doesn't meet NHRA standards, but it works!
Do you have any mpg numbers to report? I'd be curious how it stacks against all your previous ventures. Edelbrock, Autolite, Quadrajet, Summit...

I just rebuilt the whole front end on my Bronco. New ball joints, axle pivot bushings, tie rod ends, (found a burned up axle u-joint while I was in there too), and got a fresh alignment. I'll be curious how that helps my numbers, too. I don't think I'll ever see the big two-oh again now that I have 31" tires and got rid of the overdrive, but I'd be happy with 16 - 18 on the open road. I already got 16 on my last trip, which was around 300 miles, so it can only improve.


Are your heater hoses cold? I wouldn't think a water pump would go so quickly unless you've just been using straight water, which leads to rust.
That's strange otherwise.

My fuel line goes back toward the firewall, and then up and over the valve cover to the carb. It never gets near the exhaust. However, I do run into heat issues on some of my more arduous trips. I should try that this summer.



Quote:
Originally Posted by fordman75 View Post
Yep it's just a small project.

No Webers on this one. The Weber DCOE's I had were for a 81 Ford F100 flare side/step side 2wd truck I had. I sold them a long time ago.

My 54 it getting three Autolite 2100 1.02 2V's.
It must've been the Autolites that I saw. I think that would be a really fun setup.
Hope to see that '54 up and moving around soon!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fordboy300 View Post
I was looking into these yesterday and this morning I finally put my C series intake and the 465 I didn't even notice that it didn't have a place to hook the return spring on. Haha. I have yet to tune the carburetor hopefully tomorrow.
That was definitely one of the more strange "gotchas" with the 465. The throttle arm left a lot to be desired. If I ever fully pull it apart again, I may swap it out for one off of one of my 600s. Keep us posted on how it works out for you. I'm curious how it'll be on the C (as mine's on the DP).
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco View Post
That was definitely one of the more strange "gotchas" with the 465. The throttle arm left a lot to be desired. If I ever fully pull it apart again, I may swap it out for one off of one of my 600s. Keep us posted on how it works out for you. I'm curious how it'll be on the C (as mine's on the DP).

Well I got it running today and it was running all weird misfiring and all... but it just needed some adjustments. We put the meter on it and at idle I believe it was at 13 to 1. I have yet to drive it. I'm still trying to figure out how to hook up the throttle return spring. I'll keep you fellas posted.
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fordboy300 View Post
Well I got it running today and it was running all weird misfiring and all... but it just needed some adjustments. We put the meter on it and at idle I believe it was at 13 to 1. I have yet to drive it. I'm still trying to figure out how to hook up the throttle return spring. I'll keep you fellas posted.
I have thought about drilling the throttle arm to hook up the spring, but didn't have the heart. I bought some steel rod from Home Depot and am going to weld it to washers on the two valve cover bolts, and bend the rod in sort of a U to hook up a spring.

My idle keeps dropping and I can't understand why. Farmboy, compared to my 1848 yours is a **** star. It looks so good I want to bite it. Ha ha.

AB--I haven't taken it on the open road yet (will have to once I get the ZF installed), but I'm getting right around 12 in town, and only saw that with the original Autolite 4100, 1.08, with 485 cfm. I'm happy with it.
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post

My idle keeps dropping and I can't understand why. Farmboy, compared to my 1848 yours is a **** star. It looks so good I want to bite it. Ha ha.
that's about all it was good for I currently took off the 465 for the time being until I could figure out how to route the return springs. Tuning is a big issue it just did not wanna cooperate with me not running under its own power. So the 600 is back on that son of gun is great. I took it for a spin man I felt a difference. It did bog when I tried doing a burnout a the stop sign. Haha. I expected it though.
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordboy300 View Post
it just did not wanna cooperate with me not running under its own power.
Do you mean returning under its own power? (As in the return spring?)


If so, yeah, the return spring on the carb itself is pretty much useless. I actually have mine disconnected because of the way it hooks into the unused hole on the pump cam (which really makes it difficult to remove). It doesn't do any good by itself, and you don't need it with a different spring setup, so there's no point.


Yeah, the 600s will haul these things around with ample power! But that bog off the line is why I got rid of mine. I could never get rid of it no matter what I did.
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Old 04-01-2015, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco View Post
Do you mean returning under its own power? (As in the return spring?)


If so, yeah, the return spring on the carb itself is pretty much useless. I actually have mine disconnected because of the way it hooks into the unused hole on the pump cam (which really makes it difficult to remove). It doesn't do any good by itself, and you don't need it with a different spring setup, so there's no point.


Yeah, the 600s will haul these things around with ample power! But that bog off the line is why I got rid of mine. I could never get rid of it no matter what I did.

I would manually give 2 shots of fuel and then start it. It would start up run and turn off and then I would leave the throttle partially open turn it would stay on but around 1k use the fuel that would be in the carb and turn off again. At this point im cursing up a storm lol. It's just a hassle so for the time being the 600 will do for driving around town.
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Old 04-01-2015, 10:24 PM
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Sounds like there's something actually wrong with the carb. Most likely in the idle circuit.
I'm assuming you bought it used, rebuilt it, etc? If so, take the fuel bowls off and then get a can or two of compressed carb cleaner. Use the little straw it comes with and put the tip into all 8 of the air bleeds on top of the carb. Blast each one out until a good, steady stream comes out of the side of the carb body.

The 600cfm on my wife's Bronco gave me fits for a long time until I realized that 4 / 8 of the air bleeds were plugged with dirt and debris. Made a big difference.

Some place to start, anyway.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:16 PM
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I installed the QF secondary adjuster. It was fun to open it when I swapped over the diaphragm. The original one has a check ball in the vacuum port. This one just has a small push in restriction, like in a Quadrajet. The adjuster screw is labelled S and F, which, I assume, means slow and fast. I'll be that screw is like a mixture screw that regulates the amount of v. that passes. Brilliant.

AB: The rod linkage that controls the choke flap is inserted into a metal arm/hole in the back of the choke housing. Does that metal arm from the housing sit in front or behind the tiny clip?

Well, I think I have a rating for top end or performance of the carbs I've tried. The best was the Summit 600. If I mashed it from a stop, pulling onto a 40mph city street, I had to let off b/c it scared me. But, it got 7 mpg around town with 67 p.jets. Second was a toss up between the QJ and the Eddy 500. Both were a thrill and cracked me up.

Wow, try to find info on hooking up a hot air or thermostatic choke!
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:04 PM
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Very interesting on the QF secondary adjuster. Looking forward to getting one.
They seem like a much more tuneable and updated design than swapping out springs.

I'm trying to think of which "clip" you're referring to.
On mine, there's a flat metal arm that comes out of the choke housing. It's what moves when the metal spring expands/contracts. The arm from the choke flap goes into a hole in it and is held in place by a little cotter pin.

Then, there's a big plastic arm with a stepped edge on one side and a weighted "ball" on the other. It hangs OVER the arm that comes down from the choke flap.

Is that what you mean?


For what it's worth, I simply decided to forgo the whole hot air setup and installed the electric choke cap off of my 600cfm.

https://holley.com/products/fuel_sys...s/parts/45-153


(As you can see in that pic, I hadn't realized yet that the hot air port is a vacuum leak).

Either way, it took all of about 5 minutes to swap out. Then, there's a 7v port on the alternator that I ran a wire to, and viola. All it took.


So you'd say that the Summit 600 was the overall best performing carb you've had on there? (Gas mileage aside).
The Edelbrock 500 outperformed the Holley 465?

How does the 465 fit into that list?
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Old 04-03-2015, 08:55 PM
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I'm sorry about not clarifying. Which side of the cotter pin does the metal arm from the choke sit?

I really can't say about the 465 yet, performance wise. I need to get it dialed in. So far I'm just really enjoying driving it. It just feels right.

I should note that I had the eddy on there when the 1.7 roller rockers were on. They did make a difference by themselves.
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