hello everyone. i have a c6 auto in a 77 ford pick up 4x4 what i was wanting to know is- are tranny flushes good for these trannys? the reason i ask is because my old acura it wasn't good thing to do.

another thing if a flush is good, what about changing the filter? this one shop says you don't need to anymore because it does such a good job, but i don't see how it could clean out the filter. does any one have the b&m deep pan and filter kit on theirs?

i also thought about beefing the tranny for off road use, should i get a shift kit when i drop the pan for the b&m pan? do those help a tranny last loger under abuse?

Thanks for any help!

 

anyone have comments on this?

 

come one some one has to have done something on this! help please!

 

A full flush should be a good thing to do with any transmission with over 50K miles (I guess except Acuras). You have probabaly 9-12 quarts replaced with fresh fluid whereas in the filter/pan change, you have maybe 4-5 quarts replaced. But if the trans is marginal or weak, this might send it over the edge.

To me, it would make sense that if you replaced the filter at the same time as the full flush, you probably could get away with not changing it as much. But I think it would be risky to not change it at all. After all, it is a filter, and it was put there for a reason: to keep teensy-weensy pieces of junk and crap from clogging up the intricate works of the transmission.

I don't know much about how the deep dish pan works on 4WD trucks, but on hot rods, you use it to keep your transmission cooler because you have more fluid (volume) circulating. The outer fins of the pan also work in conjuntion with the air to keep it cooler. Then you also have the added advantage of having a drain plug that makes changing th efluid and filter easier. So at the very least, you will add cooling to your trans if you use the deep dish. In my opinion, though, you pay a big price for the B&M name, and a deep pan with fins is a deep pan with fins regardless (no moving parts).

The C-6 is a great transmission that can take a lot of abuse. I think its the best and most durable Ford made. I don't know too much about the shift kit, but I believe there is one that is made specifically for off-road use. If you plan on regular off-roading as a sport, it would pay you to learn more about the shift kit.

I do know that off-roading will put extra strain on a transmission which will create more heat, so it wouldn't hurt to install a supplemental transmission cooler (I prefer Hayden). You can also hook up a transmission gauge or two for pressure and temperature...then you can monitor your trans vital signs and ease up if it starts getting overworked.

 

thanks for the reply, thats what i was wondering, i was thinking that i would flush the tranny first then drop the pan to change the filter and pan. what other companys make a pan with a drain plug? and fins. what does it take to install those two gauges? thanks again.

 

There are a number of places that make them. You can go to summit and look at their online catalog or you can check out ebay. Just remember that ebay has shipping charges where summit doesn't. So factor that into your price. When you buy the gauges they will tell you exactly where to install the sending units. I found a few sites that show you a few areas on the C6 that could use a few mods. Like improving the servo and lever and drilling a hole the rest of the way through one of the bearings to lubricate a thrust washer that fails due to lack of lube. Email me if your interested.

 

I agree with airharley about Summit and eBay. You will find most of the differences in price between "aluminum" and "chrome", with aluminum being higher priced. I don't know why aluminum is higher priced, but the advantages aluminum offers seems geared more toward hot rodding (slightly less weight - that's the only reason I can think of). I saw several C-6 chrome finned pans w/drain plugs on eBay, but not the deep ones (2 out of 3 aint bad?). They will come to you shipped for $25-30. But ALWAYS check out the eBay shipping charges.

You can probably find gauges at Advance or AutoZone, and they will most likely be Actron (or Acctron?), which is a good name, and they offer online support and instruction booklets.

airharley -- if you have any similar email sites dealing with the C-4, please email them to me. Thanks.

 

"You have a C6 auto in a 77 ford pick up 4x4 what you were wanting to know is are tranny flushes good for these trannys?"

To flush a tranny you will get the fluid in the torque converter changed that a regular service wont get by pulling the pan.

"another thing if a flush is good, what about changing the filter? this one shop says you don't need to anymore because it does such a good job, but i don't see how it could clean out the filter. does any one have the b&m deep pan and filter kit on theirs?"

A flush will not clean out the valve body "SCREEN" without pulling the pan.
Yes, I did not call it a filter because it has a screen to prevent larger crap from entering the pump and valve body but does not "FILTER" smaller particles like an oil filter in your engine does, but if you are a fanatic about building it clean like I am, you are ahead in the have a long life game.
You can install one in your cooler line (If it were to clog, they have a bypass valve but if there is that much crap in there you already have BIG PROBLEMS) but that does not filter 100% of your fluid as it is a bypass cooling system (some fluid from the pump goes to operate the trans, the rest goes to the cooler).
If you want an auxiliary cooler, install it inline after the stock cooler (in the radiator) and the trans cooler radiator in front of the stock radiator for maximum cooling effect and longer fluid life.

"I also thought about beefing the tranny for off road use, should i get a shift kit when i drop the pan for the b&m pan? do those help a tranny last longer under abuse?"

Yes, to make a stock tranny shift smoother, the clutch for first is releasing, at the same time the clutch (or band) for second is applying in overlap (one os 50% applied, and the other is 50% released).
This causes more wear, tear and heat in the trans.
A shift kit will make the shift firmer with less, if any overlap, adding to trans, and trans fluid life.

There is a lot you can do for a C6!

For example, the one I have on my work bench out of a 60's lincoln, has been upgraded a lot for truck use.
1: I installed paper friction plates so I dont need type "F" fluid.
2: I installed 6 friction plates in the forward clutch (A little overkill as 4 is stock for truck/heavy duty, 5 is the custom HI PERFORMANCE standard but it's mine and I wanted to, besides, who knows what I'll do to the engine)
3: I installed 5 friction plates in the direct clutch (the car I pulled it from only had 3!) as once again 4 is stock truck/heavy duty, 5 is the custom HI PERFORMANCE standard.
4: I installed the E4OD 4 pinion aluminum forward planetary (good for 500 HP, the 6 pinion planetary setup is good for 800HP and more, but I had a spare aluminum setup in a box in the garage and no cash for the other set up) that also lowers the first and second gear ratio's.
5: Installed an "H" code (wider and stronger than stock but the ratio is not much better) band lever and a modified/bigger servo piston.
6: I installed the "stubby flanged" output shaft from an older 1960's/70's pickup with the older FE type engine C6, (not the long sliding yoke type).
7: I am waiting for the torque converter with furnace brazed fins and torrington bearings and a different (internal fluid return impeller ratio that will multiply the torque more than the stock one, "I forgot the proper name")
8: I installed an RV/towing shift kit.
9: I installed a drain plug in the pan facing the rear so it wont get knocked off if I hit something.
10: and finally, an adjustable vacuum modulator.

So, yes, like I said, there is a lot you can do to the C6.

 

What does an adjustable vaccum module do? Nice tips on the c6 Archangle.

 

Adjustable vaccum "modulator"?

It deals with adjusting the line pressure and the shift points depending on the suction level of the intake.

High vaccum= closed throttle and early shifts with a lower internal pressure.

Low vaccum= opened throttle and later shifts with a higher internal pressure.

I is adjustable rather than having to rely 100% on finding just the right length modulator rod length.