So do you agree my EGR is functioning normal?

So should I now look at that diverter valve thing and the catalytic converter? Most people say that a catalytic converter should last to 100k-200k miles. My truck only has 72k but it sat unused for many years, can that affect the life of the catalytic converter?

 

No your code is for higher than expected EGR position feedback when the EGR is supposed to be closed and yes it can affect idle RPM and quality. Stop ignoring the obvious.

 

Right on, my idle is perfect now after I replaced the MAP sensor a few weeks ago. This new problem is no power under load, so can a bad EVP give me problems with power under load? Truck runs great until I step on the throttle over 2000RPM's and it feels like detonation/ no power.

And I know what detonation feels like from turning up too much boost on the turbo in my old SVO's

 

Never got a chance to get a new EVP today. I DO NOT have a idle problem. I have a POWER problem. I don't trust all the codes from these old truck computers. The last problem I had was not pointed out by a code, (these old truck computers are such old technology you can not trust them, but sometime they get you close to the problem). I took an educated guess and got a MAP sensor and that fixed my problem. Below is the link to that thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ith-video.html

 

Clear the codes, then drive the truck again, see if the code for the EGR position returns. I do not recall if you stated that code was from KOEO or from historical aka CM codes.

If it returns then yes....a slightly stuck open EGR can cause detonation issues...it's an effective umetered air leak. Perhaps not enough to trigger a lean code but enough to cause detonation.

 

Right on man! I will clear codes in the morning and then run the truck hard and see if the code returns! Thank You!!

 

So I got a new EVP and installed it. Unhooked battery cable for 30 mins. Truck now runs good plenty of power and no detonation but I still got code 34. I'm not ready to say it's good because it is also colder and raining today.

That diverter valve is still making a bunch of noise under hard acceleration. I unhooked the vacuum line to it and the noise went away, so I think it is doing its job but just noisy. I think I will try and find another one at pick and pull later this week.

 

So a little update. Last week after it started running perfect again I cleared all codes and ran the crap out of it, it ran great and the diverter valve was not making noise! Yesterday I checked codes and it was perfect no codes, just 11.

This morning on my way to work it was running like crap again and no power. On my way home it was running even worse and I got a CEL. So I pulled codes and got 22 (MAP sensor).

So you ask what was different between last week and today?? Last week the temps where in the 30-40s and today was 60 with rain and thunderstorms. Temps are going to drop back into the 30s tonight. So I unhooked the battery and cleared codes and I bet it will run great again tomorrow.

When I replaced the MAP sensor about a month ago (fixed my idle problem, but now this started) I got a cheap $40.00 one from the local parts store. And it seems after reading on the forum nobody trusts the cheap sensors and only uses Motorcraft. So the local Ford dealer wanted $199.00 for one! But I found one online with fast shipping for $126.00 and it should be here Friday.

 

Update, truck ran like crap all week. It is so low on power I can can't even go faster than 45mph, had to use back roads all week to work. I got the Motorcraft MAP sensor yesterday and no change. Truck runs and revs fine in Park, but it won't go over 1500RPM in gear even if I put the pedal to the floor. The diverter valve still makes a ton of noise so I disconnected the vacuum to it just so I don't have to hear that noise for now. CEL came on again today on my way to work so I will check codes again when I get home.

Can a plugged CAT converter cause this? How much back pressure should I feel at the tailpipe? It still has complete stock exhaust. I had a friend at work rev the engine this morning while in park, not much pressure at idle but for sure felt more pressure when he revved up the engine.

 

Check your cap and wires. The kicker is the weather...rain equals moisture. Moisture makes bad ignition parts known. You sound like you are losing spark. My bet is on a bad wire or 4.

 

Cap/rotor/wires/motorcraft plugs/ MSD coil are only a few months old. This week was warm then cold then rain and didn't chage how it ran.

 

Do me a favor and hose the cap, wires and inside the cap with wd40 and test drive it. It won't hurt anything and will eliminate moisture in the ignition if it is wet. If it changes you have a bad cap/wires. If not you knocked one possibility off the list. I have had bad ignition parts out of the box in the past.

 

Many folks have found the MSD product quality is severely lacking. I would swap the original coil back on.

Since you are still getting the rattling sound in the diverter valve I would also start to lean towards a plugged converter. But let's start with the obvious/simple things first.

Previous post has some great advice...

 

Thanks guys, I will do that when I get home. Going to try and leave early to work on this.

 

Alright I so got home got code 11 then 34 and 41 from CM. I checked fuel pressure again and it is perfect. Inspected the cap and wires and sprayed with WD-40. No change still runs like crap can barely move its own weight won't rev over 1500RPM in gear even at WOT. I hooked the diverter valve back up for the test drive and it is still making the very loud and horrible noise, and when I rev the truck up in park to about 4000RPM I can hear it making some noise but not as bad as when driving.

And I put the original EVP back on the EGR the other day and verified the EGR was closed.