I am looking at getting a 76 f250 highboy that came with a 360 but it needs a rebuild. I was wondering what I would have to do to put in a 460.

 

Well the 360 is a FE/FT big block, and the 460 is a 385 series big block, so it all depends if the trans will bolt up to it. I do not know, but I am sure someone does.

Motor mounts can be made to work if it was a 351M 335 series coming out. 460 ?? Did the 460 come out of a car or truck? Meaning does it have car or truck exhaust manifolds?

Truck ones no big deal they exit futher back and will work easy enough. Car ones, BAD cause they can prevent you from putting it in, they exit more to the front and will hit the passenger side frame rail. And so some people just notch the frame ='s FAIL.

Also does it have a front or rear sump oil pan, either will work, but a rear sump is better. Yes you can get the front axle pumpkin to hit the oil pan is you leave the front sump pan on and off road it hard.

Changing the pan from a front sump to rear I think you need to get a different timing cover, or you can leave it you will just have 2 dip sticks. Cause you will need to get the oil pan side mounted dip stick, so you can check the oil properly.

 

And this bit of info:

460 info
I think the 1979 casting number prefix could be either D1VE or D9TE
1971/78 and some 1979 460 engines: The block casting number is D1VE-AB, A1B or A2B. These 460's do not have a weighted spacer / D1VE also applies to 1971/73 429's, as the block is the same.

Mid-model year 1979: FoMoCo changed the 460 engine, has a weighted spacer, the block casting number is: D9TE-AB
Since this was a "running change," there are no before/from specific serial numbers or production dates, so in 1979...the block casting number must to be known to get the correct parts.

The flywheel (flexplate) & harmonic balancer are specific to either the D1VE or D9TE blocks.
460 WAS not available (FROM THE FACTORY) with 4WD or a Manual Trans until 1983, then only in F250/350's / No 460's available in F100's after 1976, F150's after 1979 (CA:1978), Passenger Cars after 1978 / No 460's available in 1980/82 F250/350's, E250/350's only.
1983/97 F250/350 460's have a hydraulic clutch.
1973/79 4WD's do not use engine towers (aka perches, stands), as there is no engine cross member to bolt them to. 4WD engine supports bolt to the inner frame rails.
1968/78 Passenger Cars, 1975/97 E250/350 and 1983/97 F250/350 460 engine mounting parts will not work on 1973/79 F100/350's.

Read the part about the flexplate and the fact your 460 can be internally or externally balanced. Meaning I THINK you have to get the correct flex plate for the kind of balanced 460 you have? Also read abut the eng stands.

 

I swapped out my weak 390 for a 460 in my 1979 F150 4x4. I used factory engine perches out of a 351m/400 4x4 truck, and used Trans Dapt Engine Swap Motor Mount Kits (part # 4225). For hedders I used Hedman Hedders 500-85650. They fit well but my truck had dual front shock towers so I had to make a minor modification to the pass side shock tower. I also had to put a 2" body lift to get my steering linkage up off of the hedder. For the trans I kept the stock NP435 and swapped the bell housing for a 351M/400 housing. I kept the 390 flywheel. Overall, is was a very easy swap. I also kept my front sump oil pan and had no clearance issues at all.
If you are doing a swap on an automatic transmission truck, you will need to find an automatic with the correct, non FE bolt pattern to mount up to your 460. A trans out of a 351M/400 will work but the 351M/400 flexplate and spacer plate will not work. You can get a 460 only flex plate from napa and as far as a spacer plate goes, you can either cut out some of the sheet metal to make it work, or go hunt down a 460 specific plate.
I have done swaps on both and its an easy weekend swap.

 

Have you bought a 460 yet? If not make sure you get as many accessories with it as possible makes the swap a little easier.

For the oil pan situation best bang for the buck is the Ford Racing pan kit. You don't need a different timing cover you just block off the old dipstick hole.

 

Ford 460 front to rear sump oil pan conversion 101, that I found from some old FTE guys.

"I purchased a Ford Racing Engine Swap Oil Pan and a set of Milodon pan bolts for my truck, which has a big dent in the side of it where the front differential hit it. (Previous owner doing jumps). It didn't go exactly to plan.

When I pulled the pan, I soon realized that you need a new oil pump. The old siphon tube presses in on the bottom; you need the type with the two bolt flange on the side. So I ordered a Ford racing oil pump as well. (Priority shipping was expensive). I found that the new main bearing stub doesn't have a nut or lock washer (3/8" flange nut), also the kit doesn't come with a gasket for the siphon tube or bolts for that matter. During installation I had to remove a broken bolt, I used a set of Irwin screw extractors which worked great.

About an hour into trying to figure out why I couldn't get the four larger(5/16) bolts into the ends of the pan, I pulled it down and found that the new one piece gasket will only accommodate the 1/4" bolts like on the sides, but not the 5/16". I ended up drilling the inserts out with a 5/16 drill bit.

Parts needed for conversion:
Oil Pan: Ford Racing M-6675-A460 (Summit or Jegs)
Oil Pump: Ford Racing M-6600-A460 (Summit or Jegs)
Oil Pump to Engine Gasket (Included with Oil Pump)
Siphon Tube Gasket: Fel Pro 11792 (Summit, Jegs, any Auto Parts Store)
1 of each - Grade 8 (3/8" - 18 Thread) Black Flange Nut for Main cap bolt (True Value)
2 of each - Grade 8 Black (5/16" - 18 Thread) Flange nut & Lock washers. (True Value)
Oil pan bolts: Milodon 85010 (Summit or Jegs)

Additional Steps:
If your 460 has the 4 larger bolts, 2 at the timing cover, 2 at the rear main cap, You will need to drill the holes in the gasket using a 5/16 drill bit.
You have to man handle the new dip stick tube to get it to fit.

Review:
Although I ran into problems, the overall product is outstanding! The Milodon bolts are a little bit shorter than factory, but they look great against the black Ford racing oil pan. The pump pressure using the Ford High volume oil pump is also great, it is reading on the high side of normal on the gauge. The clearance is outstanding, and I will never attempt to use a four piece gasket with RTV again on an oil pan. You can perform this conversion for around $250, well worth the time and money. Don't forget to buy oil and new filter.

AND You will also need a reverse sump oil pickup tube/screen and the special stud (1/2" -13 x 3/8" -16 x 4 11/16") used to mount it to the main bearing cap.

Trans and motor mount info:
If you have an auto trans and a complete donor car, its pretty easy. To do it on the cheap, get the 460 Lincoln engine AND the torque converter from the car. Or buy a new converter that fits that car. Get a pair of 360/390 motor mounts, oblong the two holes on the motor mounts with a chainsaw file or whatever works for you and they bolt on to the 460 block diagonally You will notice that the stud on the 360 mount is not centered so you want that stud toward the back of the 460. If you flip the 360 mount upside down it puts the stud toward the front you want it toward the back. Now you notice the top corner of the 360 mounts are in the way of the exhaust manifolds. You need to put them on a band saw and cut off about an inch or so from the top corner of the 360 mount so it clears the manifold. Cut one mount at a time so you cut the right corner off. Remember the stud needs to be toward the back of the 460 block. If you set your band saw up to cut a 45 degrees and you cut one and than the other the same way, one will work and the other won't because you cut the wrong corner off. If you hold them up to the 460 block you will see what I'm talking about. So with the 351M removed, pull the 351m converter out of the trans and put the 460 converter into the front of the trans. and put the 460 in the truck. The studs on the 360 mount will drop into the frame perches in the truck and the trans will bolt to the back of the block and the converter will bolt to the 460 flex plate.

Do you have this? D6TZ-6345-A .. Stud-Attaches pickup tube to #3 main bearing cap / 3/8" -16 & 1/2" -13 x 4.60" long.

 

I'm just getting started on this swap myself on a 1975 F-250 4x4. I'm going from 360 to 460 and I'm looking to do mine super cheap. Mines a 4-speed. I've got a 351m bell housing, I'm reusing the 360 flywheel. Another member told me I could keep the 460 car mounts and drop them right on top of the 360 engine towers, drill holes for horizontal bolts like the car had and bolt it in, I'm going to try that. I'm keeping the front sump pan since my truck has a bunch of lift, if it didn't, I'd personally switch to rear sump. I'm debating just running the exhaust out the hood. lol.

 

I kept a front sump pan and had no issues. I never used my truck extremely hard off road, either. It should be fine.

 

Ok im thinking about a newer 460 that would have came bolted up to a five speed manual out of a truck possibly. And i dont foresee that being an issue as it has a four speed manual already, the real question is did the newer 460s have the same bolt patterns as the older ones and would a five speed bolt in or should i just stick with the four speed?

 

If anyone is looking, I've got a TransDapt 460 swap kit with motor mount shells and new insulators. helluva deal!