Dropping oil pan in chassis questions
#16
As if anyone is better than the "common man" because they paid an institution to brainwash them?
Get over yourself dawg.
In my line of work, making engineers(who must be better than the "common man", since a piece of paper{or even vellum from a nicer brain wash camp} says they have mastered a course of study to one extent or another) look incredibly stupid is a daily occurrence.
Its a little known fact, MisterCMK... that the better portion of what you call the "common man" is quite capable of educating themselves on any subject they so desire in what the modern world of the information age has spawned. Ok... maybe not such a little known fact...
Its just invisible to those who would rather belittle.
Its the internet...
You can't put anything that's not true on the internet...
#18
#21
Join Date: Mar 2005
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no need to pull the engine, or cut the cross member.
on the extended cab, i unbolt the rad support, and front cab mount. loosen the rear cab mount. jack up the rad support about 12 inches.
then remove the motor mounts and jack the front of the engine up. this gives you enough room to remove and replace the oil pan in frame.
on the extended cab, i unbolt the rad support, and front cab mount. loosen the rear cab mount. jack up the rad support about 12 inches.
then remove the motor mounts and jack the front of the engine up. this gives you enough room to remove and replace the oil pan in frame.
#23
#24
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it takes at least 6 to 8 hours to pull the engine, change the pan, and put it all back together.
my way i can have it running usually in 4 hours.
#25
#26
Tho it may "work"... its better to let the grey goo cure for at least 8 hours undisturbed.
24 hrs is best.
The problem with performing this job THE WRONG WAY... is that in the preliminary curing hours all it takes is 1 drop of oil running down the side of the crankcase to contaminate and destroy the seal.
Slacktastic performance generally increases the chances of Slacktastic results.
24 hrs is best.
The problem with performing this job THE WRONG WAY... is that in the preliminary curing hours all it takes is 1 drop of oil running down the side of the crankcase to contaminate and destroy the seal.
Slacktastic performance generally increases the chances of Slacktastic results.
#27
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#30
I am not trying to stir things up here but I am going to put my 2 cents in anyways. I spent over 25 yrs working in the collision industry retired now. I am NOT a lawyer but I will point out the fact that if you read all the small print in the contract you have with your insurance company (insurance companies have MANY lawyers) that if you alter the design of the way a car/ truck comes from a manufacturer to which would make it unsafe they can deny your claim. The truth of the matter is they will not do that unless someone is hurt. When someone gets hurt they will look for ways to keep themselves from being liable. Then whomever is hurt can only sue the owner or the person who alter the structural part of the vehicle. Can you cut & weld a frame at the cross member or turn the frame bright red with a torch NO per Ford. So they are not liable either. Here are just a few FACTS about Ford frames and there is actually much more.
https://www.i-car.com/pdf/fordfram.pdf
I too do not understand why guys don't use them. I have yet to use the Moroso gasket on a 7.3 but I have used their pan gaskets many of times with great results. I just don't understand how someone can think the goo/ RTV is better?? To each their own.
http://moroso.com/eb/catalog/navigat...nuId=main.menu
And the real beauty is if you ever have to pull the pan you can reuse. I have a Moroso oil pan gasket on my boat engine that I have reused 4 or 5 times and is over 10 yrs old and still doesn't leak. So when it is time to dig into my 7.3 I will be using Moroso's pan & gasket and I know it will do the job and look good doing so.
https://www.i-car.com/pdf/fordfram.pdf
I too do not understand why guys don't use them. I have yet to use the Moroso gasket on a 7.3 but I have used their pan gaskets many of times with great results. I just don't understand how someone can think the goo/ RTV is better?? To each their own.
http://moroso.com/eb/catalog/navigat...nuId=main.menu
And the real beauty is if you ever have to pull the pan you can reuse. I have a Moroso oil pan gasket on my boat engine that I have reused 4 or 5 times and is over 10 yrs old and still doesn't leak. So when it is time to dig into my 7.3 I will be using Moroso's pan & gasket and I know it will do the job and look good doing so.