Seems like there are a lot of turbo issues right now, some of them caused by rebuilds and wheel installs. Never the most confident of folks, I'd like more eyes on the rebuild I did yesterday before I drop this thing back in.

Assembled turbine shaft:


There was very little coked oil around that bottom collar, so it cleaned up easy.

Inserted into the center cartridge, from the front:



and from behind:



You can see where I had to clean up the mating surface with a wire wheel. Also, the cap beneath the turbine wheel came off easily, so I cleaned up beneath it, as well. I felt and heard the click of the snap ring as it found its groove in the center cartridge.

The turbine housing, after being bolted to the center cartridge:



The assembled compressor backplate:



Again, I felt and heard the smaller snap ring find its groove in the backplate. Does this look right?

Backplate bolted up:



Sexy new wheel installed:



Before the wheel was tightened, I did have a little in/out play, which I attributed to the snap rings moving back and forth in their grooves. Does that make sense? Once the wheel was tightened to even close to the specified 10ft/lbs, that play disappeared.

EBPV housing bolted up:


I use the EBPV as an exhaust brake, and it's occasionally sticky. I tried to clean up the areas of contact, and it no longer sticks. We'll see what happens when covered with soot again.

Ready for install, unless you guys tell me I screwed something up:



Talk to me...

Mark

 

Did you put any Anti-seize on the bolts? Make sure you oil those bearings up before you install it. It looks like you've ditched the spring in the waste gate. Which exhaust housing are you running, 1.00, or .84?

 

1) I didn't put anti-seize on the bolts, as I couldn't tell they had anything on them before. They came out easily, even without any pre-treating. (One of the joys of living in a low-humidity paradise.)
2) I did soak the bearings, thrust bearing and washer in oil for awhile before assembly.
3) Yeah, I used the Turbo-Master as a really expensive wire to hold the wastegate shut all the time. At this altitude, and with stock sticks, it serves no purpose.
4) The stock .84 housing.

Mark

 

Subscribing

 

There was a period of time when there were problems with the bolts backing out of the center to exhaust housing holes. I'm not saying that's going to happen, but if it does, there was a TSB issued with and updated part number for 4 bolts that have an interference thread to cure that problem. If they never backed out before, you probably don't have to worry about it, though.

 

If he bought his rebuild kit from RiffRaff, it comes with the 4 new bolts for the TSB Pikachu mentioned. Those bolts have distorted threads to provide an interference fit, so they won't back out. If you used them, they should have been somewhat more difficult to put in.

What kind of turbo is that? Is it stock, it doesn't say GARRETT on the housing?

 

You're exactly like right about the bolts in Clay's kit. Also, it's a mostly stock turbo, with an ATS housing, TurboMaster wastegate controller and, now, RiffRaff 11-blade wheel for ported housings. Not quite a 38r, but it's mine.

Mark

 

she purdy...

 

And she runs! Since you guys didn't tell me I'd over torqued the muffler bearing, or any other goofball mistake, I went ahead and installed it this afternoon. The wheel spins, the oil stays on the inside. The roads are starting to get slick here, so I'm not sure I'll get in a proper test.

Mark

 

Let us know how you like it Mark. Where you are should be a real test to the wheel. Boost and quickness, thanks


Chet

 

Looks Good !! Glad everything went well and I like the fact that you painted that purple housing
Sorry purple on truck only works if you are a girl.

 

I got a chance to take the rig for a test drive this morning, and was disappointed by my new wheel: Lots of smoke, high EGT's, boost down a few pounds from the stock wheel, not up. On the other hand, the EBPV exhaust brake worked great after my work on it, generating EBPV gauge pressure of 35psi under pretty mild conditions. I figured I had a boost leak, and headed home to fix it.

I did have a small leak, but the real problem was that, after removing the wastegate controller to install the turbo, I got the bellcrank turned about 300* when I put it back on. It looked right, but was holding the wastegate open, not shut. After fixing it in just a few minutes, I'm happy (and will post results in the ported housing compressor wheel thread.)

I mention this here because the only way I found it was by closely comparing the wastegate arm position with photos I took during the rebuild. It was a great lesson in documenting work.

The exhaust brake now works like it always did, as expected, not better. I guess with the wastegate open, the EBPV is able to generate a little more backpressure than when the only path back is through the turbine.

Mark

 

I've always wondered if it's possible for the turbo to leak exhaust gases through the oil return and pressurize the crankcase.. any thoughts ??

You had a purple turbo?

Tom

 

Most of the time the oil pressure should be higher than the exhaust pressure. It's more likely the oil would leak into the exhaust housing and be noticed.

 

It would be difficult for that to happen. Looking at the photo of my turbine above, the only path for exhaust gasses to get to the oil passages would be through the bearings or around that cap, and they'd then have get past one of the O-rings.

Yeah, the ATS ported housings are bright purple, and look like Barney's ear. I left mine that color for awhile, then painted it the next time the turbo needed to be removed. This time I decided to paint the turbine housing, as well. I've gotten in the habit of painting engine parts silver whenever I remove them, as it makes leaks much easier to spot.

Mark