Firewall insulation - Cummins Swap
#1
Firewall insulation - Cummins Swap
While the motor is out would it be beneficial to cover the firewall with some sound deadening or heat resistant material?
Cover the hole thing and down to where it starts going back to the floor?
How's it for keeping moisture? I'd hate to get moisture under it and have it rot the metal.
Cover the hole thing and down to where it starts going back to the floor?
How's it for keeping moisture? I'd hate to get moisture under it and have it rot the metal.
#2
While the motor is out would it be beneficial to cover the firewall with some sound deadening or heat resistant material?
Cover the hole thing and down to where it starts going back to the floor?
How's it for keeping moisture? I'd hate to get moisture under it and have it rot the metal.
Cover the hole thing and down to where it starts going back to the floor?
How's it for keeping moisture? I'd hate to get moisture under it and have it rot the metal.
They make specific heat shield material from dynamat and similar companys. If you prep the firewall properly and use a roller and tape off the seams I see no real way for moisture to sit behind the insulation.
As a side note I insulated the inside of my cab heavily so I do not think having insulation on the firewall would make that big of a difference. I think the biggest path for sound is from the hood in through the windshield. One of the things on my list to do is insulate my hood.
http://www.quietride.com/catalogpdfs...ood_covers.pdf
#5
My biggest source of noise is the trans tunnel from the ZF5, pretty typical for that tranny.
A lot of people make their own "Lizard Skin" sound deadener with latex paint and styrofoam beads, something to look into, Teds74ford did that on his Dodge crew and I believe on his 78 Ford Crew so he could point you out on how to do it.
Every once in a while I come across a factory uner hood insulation at the junkyards or Kit may have one in his private junkyard. haha
A lot of people make their own "Lizard Skin" sound deadener with latex paint and styrofoam beads, something to look into, Teds74ford did that on his Dodge crew and I believe on his 78 Ford Crew so he could point you out on how to do it.
Every once in a while I come across a factory uner hood insulation at the junkyards or Kit may have one in his private junkyard. haha
#6
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#8
I do still have the Bronco. It's my daily driver now while the crew is down. There's not much to rob off it. You can have all vacuum/smog crap I'm going to take off it
#9
#10
Let me know if you find one of those under hood insulation blankets at a yard.
#11
Will snag it if I do, they're just a pain to transport without destroying, but I'll be back in my CC shortly and can throw it in the rear of the cab in that.
Concerning insulation, this was the first layer on my floor, am now using Rufco instead of the Vycor.
You can see the Rufco Shield product on the back wall and part of the reason I am and will be sound deadening the $#!T out of my truck, that and I wish to be able to have a quiet conversation driving down the freeway.
Concerning insulation, this was the first layer on my floor, am now using Rufco instead of the Vycor.
You can see the Rufco Shield product on the back wall and part of the reason I am and will be sound deadening the $#!T out of my truck, that and I wish to be able to have a quiet conversation driving down the freeway.
#13
Ehh, I really haven't been impressed with it. My Audio guy put it in as my "Temporary, Entry level" amp and it's coming out in order to go in his private Museum/Display room.
Everything in my truck is temporary, which is why I haven't sound deadened as much as I'd like since I will be replacing my entire floor and building my own tunnel, the tunnel will be double layered and foam filled. There is a LONG list of things before that happens but it'll get there.
Another thing I've considered is using Pour Foam in the lowest 8" of the Pillars and Rockers as it's all dead air space and amplifies the "tin-ee" echo when closing the doors.
Everything in my truck is temporary, which is why I haven't sound deadened as much as I'd like since I will be replacing my entire floor and building my own tunnel, the tunnel will be double layered and foam filled. There is a LONG list of things before that happens but it'll get there.
Another thing I've considered is using Pour Foam in the lowest 8" of the Pillars and Rockers as it's all dead air space and amplifies the "tin-ee" echo when closing the doors.
#14
My biggest source of noise is the trans tunnel from the ZF5, pretty typical for that tranny.
A lot of people make their own "Lizard Skin" sound deadener with latex paint and styrofoam beads, something to look into, Teds74ford did that on his Dodge crew and I believe on his 78 Ford Crew so he could point you out on how to do it.
A lot of people make their own "Lizard Skin" sound deadener with latex paint and styrofoam beads, something to look into, Teds74ford did that on his Dodge crew and I believe on his 78 Ford Crew so he could point you out on how to do it.
I was paranoid, so I used contact adhesive to stick my peal and seal on. It has never come loose, even on the roof. I think either is good, but I think I lean towards the peal and seal. That being said, I went with the homemade lizardskin so I could coat the entire interior and have it look somewhat like a vinyl and plastic covering while providing some insulation as well. The biggest problem I have in my ford is that there are a lot of wind whistles, so I can't accurately gauge how the insulation is. Hope this helps.
#15
I'm driven to get my truck quiet, so, why not do the "lizard skin" or peel-n-seal then put the hood insulator on?
Concerning installing peel-n-seal I usually use a handheld propane torch to warm the sheet metal, just enough to watch the moisture "run" out/off of the steel. This just makes it warm to the touch, not hot as I don't want to use enough heat to fatigue the metal. This has proved to secure a very good bond.
Since the subject of wind noise got brought up: I have installed both a Lund cab visor and gutter mount KC light bar with 5 lights on it and had no increase in wind noise.
Have tried multiple Decibel Meter Apps on my phone and all of them have had wild variations in readings. Keep hounding my Audio guy to purchase a good one but not many of us have money for extra trinkets like that. haha
Concerning installing peel-n-seal I usually use a handheld propane torch to warm the sheet metal, just enough to watch the moisture "run" out/off of the steel. This just makes it warm to the touch, not hot as I don't want to use enough heat to fatigue the metal. This has proved to secure a very good bond.
Since the subject of wind noise got brought up: I have installed both a Lund cab visor and gutter mount KC light bar with 5 lights on it and had no increase in wind noise.
Have tried multiple Decibel Meter Apps on my phone and all of them have had wild variations in readings. Keep hounding my Audio guy to purchase a good one but not many of us have money for extra trinkets like that. haha