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To cab light or not

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Old 12-29-2014, 11:11 PM
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Question To cab light or not

I do like to look of the cab lights but not sure it worth the chance of a water leak. Do I Roll The dice and put them in or spend my money somewhere else. how likely will they leak do they look good enough to justify the gamble.
Any suggestions ideas
 
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Old 12-30-2014, 05:53 AM
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I have mulled over this one. I would bet those with leaks didn't do the due (diligence), and probably used household sealants. Transportation sealants face different problems - like vibration and sustained winds. I suspect if you get real about it, you can prevent leaks.

Here's the question: Are you looking to have those yellow VW bugs adorn the brow of your truck, or are you looking more for the night effect of the lights? I ask this because amber LEDs would be smaller (easier to seal), lower power, and would be more noticeable at night than during the day.
 
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Old 12-30-2014, 06:44 AM
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Mine are factory and after a good rain I get water in the overhead console.
 
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:45 AM
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I installed the Recon amber led cab lights from Clay 3 years ago. Bedded the light bases with Sikaflex-291, a sealant widely used in the Marine industry that has the ability to expand and contract with changing temps. Set each light base in liberal amounts of sealant. When you tighten the base bolts get 100% squeeze out. It cleans up nicely with alcohol. We get plenty of rain up in this corner of the country and mine have not leaked so far.


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Old 12-30-2014, 07:50 AM
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Mine are factory and I don't see any evidence of leaks.
 
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:51 AM
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I like the look of them. Stock roof lights are just right - not too flashy, not "16 year old kid with an AZ gift card" look. But, would I invest the time and money to retrofit??? Probably not.

The PO of my truck DIY'd some roof lights that don't belong on the SD. They look more like OBS lights, and I dislike them. But I'm stuck with them - and stuck with the problems they bring. They don't leak (yet), but they use an odd ball bulb and one of them keeps losing power. *The joys of a pre-owned truck....
 
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:04 AM
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If you want the cab lights I wouldn't worry about leaks too much just use silicone and plenty of it when you install the lights you won't have any leaks. My truck came with no cab lights and I installed 9 across the top and that was back in about '06 and I have not had one single leak. They are Recon lights which are LED. I didn't use any fancy silicone either just the stuff you get at the hardware store. You could always use a silicone gasket maker type stuff if you wanted a little extra insurance. The big thing is make sure it sits in where it is warm and is good and dry before you take it out. I did mine in the winter and left it in the heated shop for a couple days to make sure everything was good and dry before I took it out for a drive.



 
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:12 AM
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I'm not going to spend any money I have a set of ome lights and wires.
I just think they look good the truck seems it's missing something when I look at it and I think the lights are it.
Just not 100 % sure it's smart to put holes in the cab.
 
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:36 AM
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The sikaflex is an outstanding sealant.
Only problem I have had with it, is removing anything that has been attached with it.
 
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ashleyroachclip
The sikaflex is an outstanding sealant.
Only problem I have had with it, is removing anything that has been attached with it.

I've found that plastics and metal are fairly forgiving for removal. Some types of wood can be a real bear though. Try some 3M 5200 if you want a sealant that's tough to remove from any material.


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Old 12-30-2014, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by tpull3
...Try some 3M 5200 if you want a sealant that's tough to remove from any material....
As a boater, I always have a tube of this stuff on hand. Reading the instructions, it says to set your stuff in place with the screws a little loose, then let the sealant dry. Once the sealant is set, tighten the screws. That may work with a through-bolt on fiberglass, but screwing into sheet metal may have you tightening everything with wet sealant. This would bind the sealant to the sheet metal screw thread for a better seal there.

This is just something to consider when using a good sealant like 3M 5200. One other thing to think about - it's freaking on there now, buddy. Changing something out that's been sealed with this is almost as much fun as removing JB Weld.
 
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Old 12-30-2014, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
As a boater, I always have a tube of this stuff on hand. Reading the instructions, it says to set your stuff in place with the screws a little loose, then let the sealant dry. Once the sealant is set, tighten the screws. That may work with a through-bolt on fiberglass, but screwing into sheet metal may have you tightening everything with wet sealant. This would bind the sealant to the sheet metal screw thread for a better seal there.

This is just something to consider when using a good sealant like 3M 5200. One other thing to think about - it's freaking on there now, buddy. Changing something out that's been sealed with this is almost as much fun as removing JB Weld.


A little OT but your right Rich. If you set items in wet sealant and you have pre-drilled for bolts or screws, the fasteners tend to pull the sealant through for a good seal. Like I mentioned any excess squeeze out cleans up with alcohol. 5200, whoa baby! you better like where you put it.


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Old 12-30-2014, 12:45 PM
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Sounds like I could just glue them on.
 
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