First of all, Merry Christmas!


I have been experiencing PATS no starts in the past two weeks. It appears to be getting worse and I know it is PATS causing the no starts, not the HPOP or STC leaking. Truck runs SWEET once it starts. No PATS codes. No fast flashing THEFT light. Everything normal before PATS magic started. I have the original two keys and a spare I programmed per the owners manual 7 years ago. All three work and will allow the truck to start. Went out this morning, truck would not start. Tried all three keys. No start. So when I got home, I used an original key and made sure the stalk was firmly in PARK. Would not start. Went back to the spare key and it started right up. While it was running, I jiggled the key/tumbler assembly, pulled on the key and it kept running. Mine is loose. Is that normal? Been like that since I got the X. Swapped keys back to the other original one, and it started. Now I'm really confused!


So from what I have read on FTE and seen on YouTube, there is a ring around the entrance to the tumbler. That ring in turn connects to the PATS module telling the PCM that the right key is inserted and OK to start. The tumbler has nothing to do with the PATS functioning properly. It provides a linkage to the starter switch to move it. I replaced the starter switch after the first magic incident. Never in 122K miles have I turned the key and the starter did not engage and spin the motor.


So what goes bad? The ring or the module? Does the rings ability to read the key signature degrade and need to be replaced? Should I replace both the ring and module? Is there a PATS RESET procedure that I missed? Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Ed

 

I don't believe any 6.0 diesel superduty has PATS. This is one of the reasons they are commonly stolen.

 

He has an excursion though.

 

He didn't mention and I'm on mobile so I can't see his sig. Thanks.
What year? I work on a 2001 (7.3l) and it doesn't have it either.

 

Try placing a quarter on each side of the key.

A pats issue should make the light blink really fast btw.

 

With the key out, the THEFT light flashes about once every 2 seconds. With the key in, the same. Normal. When I turn the key on, the THEFT light comes on during the lamp check and then goes off. No fast blinky, blinky with 2 bits on both sides of the key with it on. I can't believe I did that.


I also disconnected my remote starter. Did not change problem. I got around the PATS issue by leaving a key in the ignition all of the time. I live in the sticks.


The only thing I did just before this happened was installed a new DC Power Systems 250 amp alternator and cleaned the battery terminals. Everything seems to work better at 14.4 VDC vice the 13.5 max VDC I got out of a new 110 amp OEM alternator that was a month old. No more dim lights for 30 seconds after startup.


Ed

 

If the 2 bits worked then replace the ring around the lock cyclinder. It's the most likly with that test.
Also you can remove the chip from the key and tape to the underside of the collum.

 

Double post

 

I did not get the fast blinky, blinky with the 2 bits on each side of the key test. I guess that means the ring is good?


Ed

 

No it would indacate the ring is bad. That ring is the transponders receiving antenna. The 2bits act as an amplifier to the receiver

 

Well it started this morning. Not sure about the rest of the day.

Thanks for the help! I'll try to round up a ring Friday and install it.

Ed