I decided to start a new thread, due to several projects being done at the same time on my Truck.
Here a List of what i am doing:
- cleaning of entire Rear Frame section from the cab back, incl Paint,
- install of On Board Air System on the Frame Rail
- Repair of Gooseneck Cut Out on Bed,
- Replacement of Fuel Tanks
- Fabrication of new Fuel Filter Brackets.
- replacement of Clutch.
- and the biggest Item, Upgrading the Rear Suspension to Air Ride.

you guys stand by, this will be interesting

 

here is what i have done today:
i managed it to take of my Camper Shell, remove the old gooseneck hitch and take the bed off.. This was really a pain due to several rusted

 

I have also picked up yesterday a complete Rear Hendrickson Suspension from an International Single Axle Truck.
After taking some measurements, i do not believe, that this conversion will be too hard, even though some fabrication will be necessary and the rear part of the exhaust has to be moved.

Here some pictures of what i have so far.
everything will be off course disassembled, pressure washed and painted with POR 15.

 

next step will be done on monday. i plan on pressure washing the entire frame and start disassembling . the frame will be painted with POR15 as well.
As for the Suspension, i will leave one side spring in, to assure alignment, while i install the new hangers on the opposite site.

this will be fun :-)

Now I’m just waiting on some parts to arrive , inclusive ride height adjuster, 5 gallon tank and some other small parts :-)

 

Just a FYI on the POR15..

It does NOT stick well to bare smooth metal. It need a COARSE surface to adhere to(Heavily rust or sandblasted metal). Even their "metal ready" does not give enough bite

Putting it on anything other than rusted or sandblasted metal will leave you with it pealing off like mad and hating their product.

If you want a good rust paint to go on clean metal, I suggest Master Series(also works well on rusted metal too)

 

i actually been using Por15 Ruste preventative paint on new raw metal for many years, as i rebuilt airstream campers and i never had any issue of peeling. It appears,that it does not want to stick on the first coats , but applying thin coats worked great for me so far...
But in any case.. my truck frame is rough enough for it to stick though..
I am still considering to paint the new fuel tanks as well though ..

 

You must be a 1st

 

It also is not at all tolerant of UV exposure. Topcoat even them rails.I thought it would be OK but 2 years later its not holding up well at all.

Can't wait to see how that air suspension works for you!

 

Thanks Guys,. I have the regular rust prevention paint as well as the chassis paint top coat. I usually follow the manufacturers instruction on it and had so far no failure. maybe i am the first

as for the sunspension: i have to go out of town, but plan on making me a shopping list for new hardware today, so i can stop at fastened tomorrow and pick up new bolts..
I did some more measurements last night, and i think it will turn out ok. The rear arms might sit 1” lower than the bottom of the differential.. but not quiet sure yet.

 

This looks to be a cool swap and i am interested to see how turns out.

 

I'll be hanging around!

 

Me too! This is a really cool swap and I'm curious to see how it turns out.

 

well, this was a slow day..lot of rain here.
I did remove the fuel tank and took some of the suspension assembly apart. The entire frame and all parts are sprayed with mean green and pressure washed.
I then blocked up the rear suspension as well as the rear frame and the desired ride height.
Removing those old spring hangers was really a pain. those rivets are pretty tuff

I did managed this afternoon to hang one side of the suspension and did some small modification here and there.it appears to come together fairly good.
The only thing however i do not like is the angle of the spring arm. I will be taking it back loose tomorrow and fabricate a angled shim. hopefully this brings the arm level, as i do not want to rotate the axle and through off the drive line...

picture are to follow in a little bit

 

Little trick for the rivets.

Grind and X into the head of them then you can chile the head off.
Then you can punch them out 90% of the time.

Works good when you are near a fuel source and don't want to brake out the heat wrench

 

thanks for the tip,
i ended up cutting the head of and using a punch with a “big” hammer. some still did not budge, so i need put drilling some of those out, after i cu the head off..
still got to do the driver side now. the tricky part will now be drilling those 3/4” holes for the mount...im sure that won’t be fun..

as promised here some pictures