had a truck with same problem wile I was a U-Haul manager 460 efi engine. problem ended up being a bad solenoid in the aode trans

 

You had a low idle and stalling from a bad solenoid in the trans?

 

yes mechanic did a tune up, new 02 sensors , still had same problem rough idle stalling when warm , it would spit and sputter and die , worst when put into gear ,problem ended up being a bod solenoid in aode tranny not sure which one, but the way he told it to me was they communicate with engine computer , like your truck if you sat there and reved engine it ran fine , but at idle would spit and sputter then stall, or as soon as put into gear would stall 90,460,efi f-350 electronic aod 19 ft box truck

 

were do I post a question I bought a reman 96 351w roller cam long block with the
gt reman heads from lightning f-150 and want to know the comp ratio for that engine

 

The 460 never came with an AODE transmission, it's too light duty.

 

You should see a square wave signal at the IAC with the engine running. The return side of the IAC is turned On/Off by the PCM. Exactly the same concept as a fuel injector. The duty cycle will change based on various factors (throttle position for one).

The humming you are hearing is most likely the IAC pulsing on and off.

 

then what electronic automatic is in these 460 w/ auto trans

 

well e40d still an electronic 4 speed overdrive automatic

 

putting a reman TRUCK ENGINE 95 -96 351-w roller cam efi w/cast iron gt heads into my 87 ltd 2-door crown vic , do you know the stock compression ratio of this 351-w with stock type dished pistons & STOCK 351-W GT HEADS

 

I will test IAC again when I get home today, in-laws are here so now we got 3 dogs in the house so it's crazy over here LOL.

Should I also test the TPS? What is the procedure for that?

 

If you unplugged the IAC connector hooking the O-scope to the plug will not tell you anything. To use the O-scope you have leave the connector plugged into the IAC (Idle Bypass Valve in the diagram below).



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if it passed the KOER self-test with no codes I would not.

To test a TPS I use my Simpson 260-6 analog meter on the ohm scale and slowly move the TPS from the closed position to the WOT position and the needle of Simpson 260 should move up the scale smoothly with no jerks.
Voltage test:
•Closed Throttle can be anywhere between 0.6-1.0 volts
•Part Throttle is triggered @ 0.04 volts above Closed Throttle
•Full Throttle is triggered @ 2.71 volts above Closed Throttle



To voltage test the TPS sensor you will need a volt meter. You need to back probe the harness while reading the voltage between the TPS and SIG RTN pins. The exact voltage you get at any one point is not of major concern; instead you need to watch for a smooth increase in voltage as the throttle is moved. A TPS that does not give a steady increase in voltage as the throttle is moved is faulty and needs to be replaced. Also check for mechanical problems associated with the throttle. Throttle linkage and cable can bind up, keeping the throttle from opening correctly. Some times the idle stop screw has been adjusted, this adjusts the base idle and moves where the TPS closed voltage. The TPS should not need adjustment, but once the idle screw has been tampered with, the TPS should be adjusted to match. If the idle is low and the TPS is high lots of problems will appear. If you need to grossly modify the TPS mounting holes to adjust Closed Throttle between 0.6-1.0 volts, you should recheck the idle stop screw first.




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Sorry I post the wrong image above and can not edit that post for some reason.
Here is what I wanted to post:


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in your video with engine running by the looks of the voltage gauge jumping all around you might have an intermittent short to ground somewhere

 

I had a bad alternator, replaced it Sunday evening. The volt gauge is nice and steady now.