Hey, guys. I just joined up here, although I've been lurking for a few years now. You all have unknowingly helped me more than once, lol!

Anyway, my truck started cutting out the other day and then wouldn't start at all. I've checked everything and found that there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. I tested the signal going to the ignition module from the pick-up coild (pip) in the distributor and it's good. I'm getting good pulse signal with the test light. I tested the signal coming out of the module, which should show up as a flash/pulse. This is the one that allows the coil to fire. I get power to it with the ignition on, but trying to crank the motor, it does not flash. I came to the conclusion that the ignition module was bad, but I replaced it and still getting the same result. I even took it in to the parts store. They bench tested it and it checked out ok.

Do any of you have a clue what else could cause it?

 

Assuming all the basics are where they need to be…rotor, inside of the cap clean, etc, do you have a spare TFI module?

 

I've got 3. I have the fender mounted one (not mounted on the distributor). The parts store says I should have the "black" one, but mine was grey. I got the black one and still no spark. I got the grey one...still no spark. Cap, rotor, distributor, etc all look good. The only thing I can see that isn't working properly is the signal from the tfi module to the coil...which doesn't pulse as the engine is cranked.

 

Did you take the cap off and crank the motor? I have seen the distributor drive gear strip or the rollpin break and no spin of the rotor. If all that is good I would go with a new pickup

 

Yep. Rotor spinning good. I figured maybe the pip sensor, but it's pretty easy to check. There is a wire going into the tfi module...top wire on the plug. I tapped into it with a safety pin and put a light tester on in. It flashes whenever you crank the motor over. That tells me it's getting a signal from the pick-up, so it should be working ok.

 

Just an update here. I took the new ignition module off the truck and back to the parts store. They tested it and said it was NO GOOD! Altogether, they tested 3 new ones from their store and they all tested bad. Not a good one in the house! The original one off my truck still tested good, but was heating up rather quickly. We figure that one was also bad, but only breaking down after heating up a bit.

I'm going to the dealer tomorrow to try and get one that's worth a crap. Throw that one on and see what happens.

 

You need the Grey TFI module, not the black one.

 

Agreed. The truck had a grey one and from what I researched online, I need to replace with same color. The parts store, however, says the black one is correct. In fact, their computer says the black one is for the fender mounted set-up while the grey is for distributor mounted version. Doesn't make any sense to me, since the distributor mounted unit is made differently. The grey and black modules they had for my truck were identical, except for the color.

Also, I read online that the grey one is for standard transmission while the black one is for auto. Difference is that grey one is capable of push-start. I have auto tranny in mine, but grey module.

Not sure why this has to be so complicated but I'm guessing the Ford dealer will have the right info. Why do you say the grey one is correct for my truck? Just curious.

 

All Ford trucks 1993 and older take the gray push-start Ignition Control Module.
It does not make any difference what transmission you have or if it is mounted remotly or not.

The Black is for the 1994 and newer Ford trucks. The Black ones are CCD and send the IDM to the computer. The gray ones are wired to the starter relay and do not send the IDM to the computer. With 1993 and older the IDM is generated by a resister hooked to the Ignition coil neg wire.

You are wrong about the Ford dealers as most of them do not know what goes on the the Ford trucks in these years as their parts computer is wrong.

Your problem is more than likely a bad computer. To test just unplug the SPOUT shorting bar jumper and see if spark returns. If it does you have a bad computer or it is lacking a ground or power to it.

 

You guessed wrong....Ford is the one who made the screw up for this vintage truck, the aftermarket followed suit just like a flock of lemmings.

The term Push-Start Ignition does not mean it's for manual transmission only vehicles. This subject comes up almost every week on this forum, trust us............you need a GREY Push-Start style ignition module.

SeattleFSB has a great write-up here: Ford TFI Ignition Control Modules - FSB Forums

 

Ok. Thanks for the info. I stopped by Ford and just gave them my vehicle info. They walked back there and came back with a grey one! So maybe they finally figured it out? Anyway, it was $167. I told them to keep it. Took the original back to AutoZone and had them look it up by part #. They came back with a grey one (also looked it up by vehicle and it was black!) I had them test the grey one. Tested good, so I bought it ($49). Will throw that on when I get home and see what happens. Fingers crossed.

 

The error with the Ford dealers look up is that it says the gray one fits trucks after 1994 and that is wrong.
This is the first time I have heard of any place trying to sell a black one for a 1993 or older truck.

I take it you did not read my post #9 above.

 

Aftermarket Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are notoriously short lived. You may get lucky but when you mention Autozone and a $49 ICM in the same sentence you are skating on thin ice.

 

Got a new ignition module that tested good at the store. Put it on and the truck started right up, but still cutting out. Just for the heck of it, I threw on a new ignition coil. Runs like a top now.

In the process of being under the hood, I found a broken plastic piece on the throttle cable. Now to see if I can get that fixed. Doesn't look too good the way it is.

 

Yes. I did. Thanks for the info. I didn't get to read your post until later, sorry. Anyway, Napa, AutoZone, and Advance all tried to sell me the black module for my '92. I finally had AutoZone look up the part number using my original part, without even giving them my vehicle info. They were able to find it and it was the grey one. And I'd much rather have the motorcraft version, but I just can't swing $167 for one. I have my mustang in the body/paint shop now...bill is rapidly approaching $4grand! Christmas, etc...plus the battery just went out in my Ford Edge daily driver today. When it rains, it pours...right?