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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Kurt's 1954 F-100 Labor of Love

 
  #31  
Old 01-04-2015, 08:44 PM
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Excuse my ignorance, but...What purpose does a resistor serve?
 
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:23 PM
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This thread shows one.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...y-54-f100.html
It cuts the 12 volt voltage after initial start up. AKA ballist resistor
 
  #33  
Old 01-21-2015, 05:47 PM
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Progress Report

OK, so the truck is running, although I am having issues with the starter now, and I am working on brakes. My inclination now is to replace springs and wheel cylinders on rear brakes and convert to power discs in the front. I AM a purist, but my daughter will be driving this for 3 years before I restore the body, so I am concerned for her safety. She won't be driving it on highways or over 55mph anywhere, so I am wondering if just rebuilding front drums is OK.

Torn.
 
  #34  
Old 02-23-2015, 11:38 AM
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Just an update. Saving pennies for a couple of months to pay for new brakes. I am going with the front disk, rear drum kit from mid-fifty. Replacing all brake lines and parking brakes, etc.

Meanwhile, I was having some starter issues, and had starter rebuilt. Brushes and bearings were the culprit. No flywheel issues, thankfully. Reinstalled starter this weekend, and it cranks up better than ever.

 
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:43 PM
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Nice project. Touching story!
 
  #36  
Old 02-23-2015, 01:57 PM
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Drum brakes are fine all the way around until you get some miles on it.
BUT I would install a dual res master mostly for safety. If any thing blows
in the old brakes now you loose them all. With a dual res you still have some
brakes. I like what your doing and hope you drive the wheels off it and
have to get another set. But yes I would do disks in the front before the
kid gets to drive it for sure. Drums are like points as they need to be
adjusted and kept up constantly. Disk in the front and self adjusters on the
back is how I would go with a new dual master.

And I welcome you and the kid to our madness of Ford trucks.
 
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Old 04-19-2015, 10:43 AM
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Update on Kurt's 54: On the road again!

Update brake job! Converted front brakes to disk and re-did rear drums. It is now street legal and running. Been driving it for 3 days now! What a feeling to take the ol' girl for it's first cruise. I hope Kurt is proud. I am.




Disk Brake Conversion in front. Used CPP kit from mid fifty.





Replaced springs and shoes on rear





Looking good.





Car on jacks, 21" in air. Bought a 3.5 ton mechanic's jack. Great investment.





Clutch Linkage on outboard side. The locking pin was a bitch. It pushes down. Ended up using a C clamp, cause there is no room to pound from above.





Clutch locking pin. You can see it's tapered.





New master cylinder with power booster. Valve fittings were a challenge to get seated properly.





Clutch and brake linkage to master cylinder. A few busted knuckles.





Clutch and brake linkage.





New brake lines all the way around. Much easier to work with than fuel lines.





Found these tags. Original 54 tags from Douglas County where I live. Notice the cut corners in the shape of the state. 1951 and 1954 were the only years they did that.
 
  #38  
Old 05-03-2015, 10:47 AM
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Next project is power steering. Need some help on this one. This is the thread where I ask specifics...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ion-223-a.html
 
  #39  
Old 01-07-2016, 05:00 PM
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Just an update on my progress. I was busy over the holiday. Completely re-wired truck with some help from my brother in law, aka "Sparky". Used the EZ wire kit and am using black friction tape to cover wires and hide all the bright colors! New alternator and LED tail lights. Also installed a new wiper motor and foot pump wiper fluid system. I also just tore out the steering column and box and installed a new power steering box. Waiting on a pulley, then I will finish the power steering by installing a saginaw ps pump underneath the alternator. Alternator has a double pulley, so I will run the ps pump off the alternator. Building a good bracket for the pump will be the hardest part.
 
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Old 01-07-2016, 05:30 PM
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Hey Michael,
So.... You are chef ... And you did all that!
You must be that rare mechanic/chef combination!

Looking good up there in Kansas - Go Jayhawks!

We used Midwest Early Ford for all of our body parts.
Steel replacement fenders are quoted in gold bullion - we went with
fiberglass fenders for $265 ea.. They are very thick & solid.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
 
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Old 01-07-2016, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ben73058 View Post
Hey Michael,
So.... You are chef ... And you did all that!
You must be that rare mechanic/chef combination!

Looking good up there in Kansas - Go Jayhawks!

We used Midwest Early Ford for all of our body parts.
Steel replacement fenders are quoted in gold bullion - we went with
fiberglass fenders for $265 ea.. They are very thick & solid.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Not so rare...I have been learning as I go along. I've found that my funds run short before I can figure out how to do any one task, so not so bad. If it were easy everyone would do it, right?
 
  #42  
Old 01-08-2016, 11:15 PM
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I'm very impressed by your work so far. I have a family project looming ahead of me, and I have limited knowledge and skills. I can change oil and tires, and I have a basic understanding of how cars and engines work, but little hands on experience. I'm reading as much as I can, but I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty. Keep up the great work!
 
  #43  
Old 01-09-2016, 07:32 AM
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I don't know that it matters, but the rod is in the wrong hole in the clutch linkage.

Great looking truck. I'm jealous of all you guys that can drive yours.
 
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Old 01-09-2016, 07:47 AM
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Great progress Michael, nice truck
 
  #45  
Old 01-31-2016, 05:51 PM
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Just an update my truck. I have completely re-wired the truck with the ez wiring 21 kit. All works great except the fuel gauge not working right, and the temp guage still not working. I suspect the fuel gauge is due to a faulty ground, but not sure about the temp gauge. Also still need to replace the dome light switch on the back window.

I installed a new windshield wiper motor at the same time, along with a foot pump setup for wiper fluid with a glass jar reservoir. Still waiting to install the spray nozzle in my hood. Nervous about how for back to install it on hood. (Don't want to cut a hole in my hood before I know it's proper trajectory. The rubber bezzle that midfifty sent had a leak in it, so I have to re install the new one before I can determine that.

Also in the process of installing the CPP power steering conversion kit. Installed the new box and pitman arm...which was a bitch. I had to lower the steering box down to the frame from up top, tied to a rope, and contort my fingers into the spot to secure the attaching bolts. Cut my my outer tubing and shaft to as it was too long with the new box, and am installing the new horn wire attachment to the colum, provided by mid fifty at a pretty penny. (The horn wire went all the way through the original box, but does not work that way with the new power steering box.) Now I am faced with building a bracket to put my saginaw pump underneath my alternator. Alternator has a double pulley, so I will run the pump off the alternator. I've seen others do the same thing, but not sure how they built the ps pump bracket.

Simultaneously, I have started thinking about attacking the suface rust all over the truck. Present plan is to start spot sanding, priming and painting to match the current color, until I really start doing body work in a couple of years.
 

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