So now that I have removed my entire front clip for some maintenance/cleaning/repairs I would like to simplify and clean the engine bay. Truck will not need to pass any emissions test but was a bought new in CA truck

I have already removed the smog pump and air manifold tubes and plugged those holes.

Would like to remove egr and backpressure control? What exactly is my best route with removing these.

Also any other items to remove or simplify the wiring and vacuum

Thanks

 

Items to simplify the engine bay:
Get an HEI conversion distributor, and eliminate the Duraspark Box. Several manufacturers make them, I think Skip White performance is the cheapest (has been working great on my truck!)

Get an internally regulated alternator, and do a 1-wire alternator (search for the how-to). This will also let you remove the stock voltage regulator and other wiring/components.

Depending on the fittings for the EGR, you'll need a block-off plate w/ gasket, and a plug. The block-off plate at the engine can be made easily with any 1/4" piece of aluminum, you just need to cut it to size and drill the mounting holes in it, and then get some gasket paper to seal it up. The end on the exhaust I'm not sure about - I don't know what the size is for the cap.

Other people may have more suggestions.

-Brad

 

OP's 1975 F250 may not have DuraSpark. While DuraSpark was introduced in 1974, not all trucks came with it until 1976.

EGR valves introduced in 1973, bolt to the carburetor to manifold spacer plate. Assuming a 2V carb, to eliminate it, use a carb spacer plate from a 1968/72 F100/350 360/390.

Using a block off plate for the EGR valve: The factory installed EGR/Carb spacer plates were aluminum, heat caused them to melt internally. So, if the original plate is still present, it has probably melted.

 

So I need to do a new spacer in addition to a block off plate? Correct? And I will post pics of ignition to see what I should do

Is the single wire alternator the same thing as the 3G conversion?

Also currently is set up confusingly for dual batts. Should I be ok with running single battery if I do the 3G alt swap?

 

If the original aluminum EGR/Carb spacer plate is still present, it has probably melted internally. So you do not want to retain it.

Ford replaced these POS plates in 1976 with cast iron plates for use as "service part replacements."

If you have one of these, you could use a block off plate...but you'll have to make it as Ford & auto parts stores never supplied it.

Since no 1968/72 F100/350 360/390 came with EGR valves, it might be easier to use one of these carb spacer plates.

 

Thanks for the advise. Is there any aftermarket spacer that can do the job for simplicity and performance sake? Or is a junkyard spacer off an older non egr my best bet

 

I'm unaware of any aftermarket carb spacer plates, there may be something...go to NAPA or an indie parts store and ask.

Parts clucks that work in chain auto parts stores like O'Reillys, Blotto Zone and etc. usually don't have a clue, especially on a truck this old.

CA resident: If you live here in LA LA Land, Engler Brothers Auto Parts on Pico Blvd. in Santa Monica is the best dang auto parts store for older vehicles.

Getting one from a 1968/72 without an EGR valve would be the way to go.

 

Right on I will try to check into someone parting one out or a junkyard. I am a ca resident but out here in the Hemet area so probably won't make it out to Santa Monica anytime soon

 

FTE member gangstakr (Robert) lives in Hemet, posts in the 1961/66 & 1967/72 forums...scrounges all the junkyards in the area.

6 or so months ago, there was a 1973/75 F250 4WD (High Boy) Styleside Crew Cab in the San Berdoo pick-a-part yard. I wasn't there, a pal of mine took some pics and passed them along.

This truck had a HUGE front step bumper with a winch mounted to it. I told him to go back and get it along with the rear doors and the tailgate...dunno if he did or not.

 

If you can't find a older spacer plate, and don't mind spending a little bit of money, Edelbrock makes the "performer 390" manifold that is a bolt-on to the engine. It would eliminate the spacer with EGR, but it would also require a new Carb (Stock 2bbl will not fit). If you have an automatic, it would also probably change the kickdown bar linkage, and possibly the electric choke hookup (if applicable).

The nice thing is that there are a ton of parts available to do whatever you want, and if you can find them used (CL/eBay) you won't have to spend a ton of cash.

 

Cant you just buy a phenolic carb spacer to change out the egr spacer? I have never did this but I would imagine someone out there makes a 2 bbl spacer. Or maybe this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1966-1967-1968-FORD-MERCURY-2-BARREL-CARB-SPACER-PLATE-289-302-351-390-460-/171300456483?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e24d8823&vxp=mtr

 

I was thinking the same thing about the phenolic spacer. Hopefully someone here knows

 

How's this set up? Worth keeping or replace and see improvement?

 

All I can see is a stock style distributor cap and coil. Can you take a picture of the whole engine bay from the front? With that we may be able to help out a little more with what can safely be cleaned up. We also don't know where your automotive skills are - are you wonderful with wrenches? Super at soldering? Bad with Bondo?

If your question is specifically related to the distributor, then it's a two-part answer.

1) Is it working and running reliably? If yes, ask yourself if you really want to modify it and potentially cause problems. Yes, you can remove a ton of wires from the engine bay, but at the same time, to do the job right, you need to cut wires behind the dash, wire in a relay, and run new wire(s) out to the HEI module. It's not hard, but it's time consuming to do it the right way. I did notice you've got some wire joints that have electrical tape on them (at the coil). Were those connections soldered together, or just twisted bare and taped up? If the previous owner did that, you may want to check and verify the connections were made solidly with solder. Anytime you connect wires (especially under the hood!) you should REALLY be soldering and using 2 layers shrink tubing to protect from moisture and vibration. The previous owner of my truck only used electrical tape on connections, and some came loose - almost caused my truck to catch fire!

2) How much does the extra wiring and ignition box bother you? If you're trying to turn the truck into something show-quality, you have a lot of other stuff you could/should worry about first. If it's just to simplify future maintenance, you've gotta respect the "if it's not broke..." attitude. Would you be happy getting some small 3/8" split loom harness, and just putting the wires into a single clean bundle, and using some zip ties to hold it closed?

Basically:
It works/doesn't bother you - leave it alone
It works/it bothers you a lot - tidy up the stock wiring or replace it
It doesn't work/doesn't bother you - repair stock, or replace
It doesn't work/bothers you a lot - replace it

I only did the single-wire distributor conversion because my ignition system was acting up - my truck would randomly die and not restart. I couldn't adequately diagnose the system (and prove that it was the DSII module, the PO butchered all the ignition wiring for some reason), so I got fed up and gutted the whole ignition circuit and started from scratch. I'm mechanically (and electrically) competent, but it still took quite a while for me to get it done to my satisfaction - reading the wiring diagrams, tracing wires to make sure I had the right wire, routing and running the relay connections from the battery, etc.

If you have some spare cash you want to spend, don't mind taking the time to do it right, and don't care if the truck doesn't run for a few days while you work on it, then there's no reason you can't do the distributor conversion, it's not hard for someone technically competent. If you don't know how to solder or aren't comfortable pulling the instrument cluster to solder wires behind the dash, I wouldn't do it.

Does that make it clear as mud?

 

Perfect ya it does help a lot. Made me decide to leave it and clean it up for now then just replace/upgrade later on if and when it fails.

Also I just got a different carb spacer off of a 68.


Are the two tubes coming out the side for heater hose or something??
Is it worth it to run the heater hose through here or bypass these altogether? Cap off of bypass?

Also for my 75 what degree thermostat to you guys recommend. It can idle for 35 minutes and still shows very minimal heating up. I think the therm is stuck open. PO thought the same may be true.

Thanks for all your help guys