I agree, I think the carb is the issue Its running LEAN probably gummed up in one of the passages.

 

Carb was soaked for several days in carb cleaner, and completely blown thru.

 

apart? did you replace gaskets? reset float level?
Run the engine and spray some starting fluid around the intake ports, carb base and see if the rpm's raise from the added fuel

 

I used to do that. a long time ago. Until one time when the points ignited the fumes. Listening through a section of vacuum hose is much more effective, not to mention safer.

 

You don't have to spray the entire can! Just a brief wiff of spray here and there. The OP doesn't have a vac leak anyways,

 

Tried again last night and ya'll have convinced me it is in the carb, will be pulling it down tonight I hope. I took video, but can't get it to load to youtube to share it with you. Also going to tap into the port on the intake in front the carb and get a vacuum reading. Carb was soaked good and very clean, but will double check.
See if these work, to large to have as one so some overlap.

 

Alright, vacuum is 16 inches at idle, and jumps to 20 if I raise idle slighly, it stays steady, no jumping.
Pulled the carb, ran wire thru every hole I could find, then blew thru it all, no clogs and made no difference.
I'm at a loss again!

 

Well I understand your frustration. But this is just a mechanical thing, so if you are patient and methodical you will prevail.
16 inches does not sound like much to me considering you have it choked pretty good. The fact that it is steady is good. If you could check the vacuum when the choke is open, and if it is very low, with no manifold vacuum leaks. Then with it being a newly rebuilt engine I would wonder about late valve timing? Is it possible you mis-counted the pins when setting the timing chain?
EDIT The idle circuit uses/needs manifold vacuum, when you close the choke you are creating a false higher vacuum.
Just my thoughts!
We are all just trying to help

 

I checked the pin count several times. I did unhook the vacuum advance and set timing to 5 and it seems to rev better and I can open the choke fully while reved, but still won't idle. I sprayed some cleaner without any difference

 

Assume the carb is setup right? That is, at idle the butterfly should only be open a certain drill bit diameter, something like that, no more, no less? Make sure everything is zeroed out correctly mechanically with linkage and that the butterfly opens perfectly vertical at full throttle. Set idle mixture screws 1 and 1/2 turns out from fully seated as a baseline, this will be close.

16 steady isn't "bad" but it's too low for a newly rebuilt engine, at least at sea level, and a stock cam. Subtract approx. 1" for every thousand above MSL. 17-20 is "normal" at idle spec however.

Put the timing light away for a minute and disregard the marks and advance ignition timing at the distributor for maximum vacuum at idle spec, and back off from that point about 1 in Hg., adjust idle stop as necessary during this process and then try idle mixture screws for max vacuum again, keep them both even. Keep adjusting idle stop RPM as necessary. Make the carb "work" for the fuel.

You should be pulling 18 or 19 in Hg, approx.

 

Still pisspoor advice spraying something that volatile around a running engine when there is an easier, safer, more effective method.

 

whatever.........

 

I don't see a problem either, I've used WD40 etc. You can even spray it with a mist of water if your afraid of fire or messing up the paint. Water will have the same effect of an rpm change or kill the engine if it hits a vacuum leak...

 

The ONLY reason I said starting fluid is because MOST arisol sprays are no longer flammable, I use propane myself.


For an engine to run we need AIR, FUEL, COMPRESSION, IGNITION all at the correct time, going to have to start over with the basics here. I just listed to the videos and it sure sounds like you need to run the valves again!


let me ask, Did you happen to install a PCV to this engine? If so eliminate it and see what happens

 

16 was at the lowest idle without stalling, no tach. As soon as I raised it any I had 18 and then 20.
No PVC, all original down draft.
Waiting for some more cycles to go Back thru, retorque heads and readjust valves. They were done in engine stand. Being mech lifters, I thought it sounded pretty good.