My 460 has about 10:1 compression, 10-12 degrees static timing advance, and about 425HP. I notice that when the engine is warm, the starter has a real hard time cranking it over. If I let it cool down for 15-20 minutes, it cranks no problem. I have headers, but the passenger side headers is at least 2-3" away from the starter. All the connections are good, battery is good, etc... I was wondering if one of those high torque mini-starters is the answer?

 

no.......(in general)

if you take your starter in to a rebuilder, they can make it a "real" high torque starter as compared to the "Gear Reduction" units. But chances are you don't need that, just some heat shielding or the cylinoid needs replacing.

 

I have the permanent magnet gear reduction starter from a later (mid '90's) 460 fitted to my '87 truck.
All you need to do is relocate the starter cable to the 'hot' side of the solenoid and run a single 12Ga wire to the solenoid on the starter.
It seems to spin my engine much faster.

I'd agree, if you have tight headers you want a starter blanket, but the PMGR starter is smaller and gives you more clearance.
Shield the cable too. Resistance goes up with temperature.

 

Thanks for the info. I was planning on changing my solenoid over the winter anyway. I'll see if that helps.

 

Do you have a heat shield on your starter? My banks kit came with one and it is a pain to remove when I need to get in there, but I have never had a problem starting the truck.

Sent from my iPad using IB AutoGroup

 

Currently, I don't have a heat shield. I figured with 2-3" of clearance between the starter and header, I'd be OK. Perhaps not? I can fab up a heat shield easy enough. That will definitely be cheaper than a new starter. At least it's worth a try.

 

If you've already cooked the lacquer on your windings the starter is on its way out.
A shield isn't going to reverse the damage.

My DB Electrical starter was only $55.

I'm really digging your truck!
Any chance you would upload some more pictures to your album or 'garage' here on the forum?

 

Have you checked all your cables? I had the same problem, and it turned out to be a bad ground. Mine is doing the same thing again now, that's what I am going to check first. There is a way to check draw on your cables and starter, to isolate the high draw. I forget how, maybe google that.

 

You can just use a jumper cable to 'supplement' the suspect cable.
If it makes a difference, replace the bad cable.

 

To test a cable for voltage drop is simple and easy. Place a voltmeter probe on the negative post of the battery (not the terminal, the battery post itself.) connect the other end of the voltmeter to a sold, clean ground point on the engine block. With the ignition disabled, crank the engine over for a few seconds. The total voltage drop if any will actually be indicated as a positive voltage. Zero is good. More than a 2/10ths of one volt means the cables or connections, or both, is bad.

The same test is performed on the positive side cables and connections to the starter. Another test is for current leaking through radiator and coolant, this can ruin cooling systems and difficult to otherwise diagnose. When starters get smoked or go bad they sometimes start zapping high current to ground, Not Good for sensitive electronics.

 

I'd like to add to Ted's statement that IME, this is much easier to see using a good quality analog meter.
The needle reacts much faster, and gives a better visual.

 

I actually don't have a pile of pictures of my truck on the computer. Most of the pictures were taken when I still used a 35mm camera. If you'd like to see something specific, sure I can take a picture. I actually have a thread going in the bumpside forum, "TIME TO CLEAN UP MY ENGINE." The whole engine bay will be dismantled, cleaned, painted and re-assembled. So, the cable will be new and/or clean when it goes back together.

Wait, I do have one picture you might like!!

That IS my truck in the background! The two scared little boys are mine too.