Had a miss in the #5 cylinder on a 2005 F-150 5.4 Triton. Had it hooked up to see which code was given and the tech said that #5 was the culprit. Taking no chances, I purchased a new plug and coil pack. I installed them and it ran great until I got up to around 70mph and then it started dong the same thing it was doing earlier. I took it back to the place that checked the codes and it came back as the #5 cylinder misfiring again. I am not sure how this is possible after replacing the plug and coil pack. Is there some way that the plug that fires just ahead of #5 is fouled out and causing the #5 cylinder to get too much fuel transferred to that cylinder? Or is there a possible short somewhere causing that cylinder to misfire and ruin the coil pack? I am stumped on this for the moment anyway. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to whom ever.


dschleicher

 

Did you use dielectric grease on the rubber over the coil wire ? Maybe you got too much on the plug ceramic and it shorted across ? Was the rubber boot new ?...... Im guessing its still related to the coil / boot.

 

Change coils #5 and #6, clean both boots .... retest and see if you get a code and if it moves to #6 position.

 

Steve (ill): Thank you for your response. One thing I failed to mention is that this issue is on my sons truck and he is currently stationed at Ft. Hood Texas. He did not mention using any die electric grease when he installed the new coil pack so I'm pretty sure he never thought about that. However; if he didn't put any on it at all, would it be possible that he does not have it down far enough on the plug, and would he still be able to mount the coil pack correctly if it is not seated properly on the plug? It is awful hard to diagnose a problem from 1200 miles away but I have had success dealing with other minor drive train repairs that he has had to do. In your second response you mentioned that he should switch #5 and #6 coil packs around and see if the problem moves to #6. I had suggested that to him on the phone the same day I posted my question but as of today I have not heard back from him. He is gone on maneuvers so often that it is hard to stay in touch on a regular basis. I need to contact him and ask if he's had time to try that yet. Thanks again for your response. Much appreciated.

 

Also check that the " lock " on the coil plug ( the coil wiring ) is not broken and let the connector come unseated . I see that sometimes .

 

too little grease is probably OK.. I did see one coil that had excessive grease on the OD and the spark traveled this and shorted to ground. I can not say if the grease was the proper dielectric or something else. Cleaning the boot and reinstall it , fixed the problem.

 

I will pass this on to him whenever I can get in touch with him. I have not heard from him yet so he may have it fixed already. Thanks for the ideas though. I sincerely do appreciate the help you folks are giving me. Thanks again


dschleicher

 

This is in regards to the #5 cylinder misfire. We finally found the problem that was causing the misfire. It was the number 8 cylinder. The spark plug had worked itself loose and was somehow affecting the number 5 cylinder, how I really can't explain unless it was shorting into the #5 plug somehow. I know this doesn't make any sense but for being 1200 miles away its the best I can do. He replaced the plug and coil pack on #8 at the Ford Dealer and his truck is running fine again. I know when Ford came out I believe in 2004 they used a two piece plug. This plug is not easy to remove without breaking and if you have it done at a dealer they will tell you that it will cost anywhere from $80 to $100 per plug if it breaks when they try to remove them. My son had his all replaced about a year ago and was lucky, they did not break a single one so the cost was very reasonable. This is still a problem for Ford as far as I'm concerned because; why are the plugs working loose? Maybe there's an answer or a good reason for this but that kind of problem shouldn't exist in todays vehicles. All said and done this issue is behind us for now and we learned something new again. Never stop learning. Thanks again to everyone that gave me ideas and tips along the way. If I can help someone else out I sure will because that is what makes this forum great.

 

I am about to try to replace the ball joints on my daughters 2002 Ford Taurus. I called a repair shop and asked the if any special tools would be needed and they said no. When I look at videos on how to do this they all say that I need to use a ball joint press! In my world that is a special tool. I don't know anybody that has this tool in their toolbox at home. I do however believe that the ball joint comes pre-assembled into the "A" arm and all you need to do is install the whole new piece. Is this correct? Is there a video out there that actually shows the removal and installation of the ball joints? I believe that there is only the lower ball joint that needs to be replaced because the strut takes care of the rest. Please let me know if I am way off base here or not. Thanks to all of you Ford Truck/Car enthusiasts for your help. HAPPY NEW YEAR to you and your families. Thanks


Doug