Hey guys. I've done some searching and can't seem to find anything similar to my small problem.

I have an 83 f150 with a 4.9l 4speed manual. We are putting a Hays super truck clutch kit in it. I got a new flywheel today so we went to bolt it up but forgot to put the plate on it before the flywheel. We pulled it back off and when we went to torque it all back up one of the six bolts snapped on the crankshaft. Its probably torqued somewhere over 100lbs. My buddy tried removing it with his kit but ended up breaking his little tool off inside the bolt.

So I have 2 questions. How screwed am I and does anyone think a machine shop can help me out without having to disassemble the engine?

Thanks for any help!

 

How much space do you have to work with it? If you have enough and it is flush, put a flat washer over it and weld the washer to the snapped-off bolt. Then weld a nut to the washer and turn it out with a wrench. Just remember to put your ground on an area where the electricity from the welder does not go through the bearings.

 

I had a similar problem but my exhaust manifold bolt snapped off about 1/4 inch INSIDE the head on my 496 Chevy V8. With great care I got in the hole with my wire welder and built up that stud with short bursts of weld, much like building up a soft-serve ice cream cone. When the weld bead was at the surface of the head I roseatte welded a nut on it and backed it out with a box wrench. It took me a few tries - the nut snapped off a couple of times - but it worked and saved me an expensive job of pullingh the head off. Good luck.

PS: Throw all the other bolts AWAY. Buy new and torque to specification!

 

a good technique i have used and has served me well in a pinch. get bolt, same size. drill out the center from the head thru to the bottom. hook up your ground to a good source on the block from your arc welder. thread the bolt into the hole until it bottoms out on the fastener that snapped off. slide a 7018 electrode, or the like (3/32 should do the trick) thru your custom bolt. DO NOT CONNECT YOUR STINGER TO THE ELECTRODE YET. i generally use about 90-100 amps depending on the weld machine. adjust yours accordingly. turn the machine off, very important step!!! now you can attach the stinger to the electrode. wear appropriate safety gear i.e. safety goggles/welding hood, gloves, etc. once you have everything hooked up and you're protected, now you're ready. turn the machine on only momentarily. long enough to see molten metal rise out of the drilled hole you previously made...then turn it off immediately. unhook your equipment and allow to cool. with the heat applied, and a new head on your fastener...it should come out about 95% of the time. i have heard of other ways, but this has worked well for me. be safe. hope it helps you out.

 

Thanks for all the ideas fellas. Were gonna try them this weekend. I will keep you guys posted. Hopefully one of them works. This things in there really tight with blue locktight. Might hit it with a torch for a few seconds as well. I'm determined to get this bolt out though. Thanks again, Ill let you guys know!

 

Take some pics too!