Plugged the truck in the other night and when I went to start it the next AM temp on scan gauged matched the ambient air temp. Last year I had no issues with the block heater.

I double checked voltage on extension cord I use and it was 115 V Climbed under the truck and pulled the cord off of the heater and I was only seeing 70-85 V.

Is it safe to assume my cord has died?

Also the link in the TECH folder for the block heater cord routing is dead!

 

93 looks and no responses?

That is odd for this site!

New cord tested at 115V in and 115V out. Running a test now with it temporarily installed on the truck.

If anyone is interested in the P/N for the latest and greatest cord from Ford it is 3C3Z 6B018 AA.

 

Did you ohm out the block heater itself? The cord can be a problem, but depending on time in the coolant and how well it was changed, could be a bad element. So have you tested ohms of the heater itself or done a re run of the heat test with the new cord?

 

Seems to be more common to have a bad plug than a bad cord or element. A popular mod is to cut the plug off and install a Marinco marine covered plug. Amazon has a variety of them for around $18.

 

Didn't OHM the heater element while under the truck. I should have but was in a rush.

Put the new cord on it and let it hang out under and plugged it in for an hour. Water Temp started out at 75 degrees and went to 105 in an hour. I should be able to get it installed tomorrow before the weather hits.

 

I had the bumper repainted a few months ago and with the issues I have had with inferior workmanship, I wouldn't be surprised to find the cord pinched between the bumper and bracket.

Did the plug mod over a year ago! Love it and life is better with it!

If I didn't need the block heater asap due to the weather issues we are to have tomorrow and the temps we had the last 2 nights I would have given the cheapo a go!

 

Sounds like the cord is done. You can also Ohm the cord form the male plug end. The elements usually don't fail...but I've seen a few post of ones that did.

 

I was told by 2 Ford parts guys and 1 service writer it was the cord and that they hardly ever sell heater elements!

 

Check for corrosion at the flat connector about where the harness goes over the frame rail near the front.

Josh

 

how is this dam thing routed?

 

A buddy couldn't get his old one out, so he cut both ends off and routed his new one the way he wanted.

 

It's down the top of the frame rail on the passenger side until it gets to the starter.

 

Well the new cord is in! Here is the blow by blow!

1) remove the front bumper! There are only 6 bolts and it was off in under 5 minutes. Gave access to 60% of the cord

2) jack up the passenger side by the frame. That will allow you to slide yourself under the truck and have room to maneuver.

3) using side cutters(aka dyke cutters, wire cutters or whatever you grew up with them being called) snip the plastic push pins that hold the Block Heater cord to the positive battery cable from the starter to the frame rail. There are 4 total along the battery cable. 2 by the motor mount and 2 near the transmission filter.

4) Start at which ever end and remove the old cord. I started at the bumper and worked back to the heater. I installed the new cord as I removed the old one. I cut the old cord where it went through the inner wheel well and at the plug for the heater. I then tied a pull wire onto the old cord where the plug was and pulled the old cord forward towards the filter.

5) after pulling the old one out I tied the pule wire to the new plug, taped the plug over so no dirt would get in it. I then had my son pull the wire back towards the starter and I fed the new cord in around the motor mount.

6) Reattach the cord to the positive battery cable and plug it into the block heater.

7) reinstall the bumper.

It took us about 45 minutes once we gathered all the tools. It wasn't that bad other then working on the ground on our backs in 26 degree weather.

Now just for reference folks the cord had a tag on it that states it pulls no more then 15 amps! That means that your normal house hold timer should be able to handle being used on the block heater. I mentioned this because there was a debate at one point and time last year on this.

So if the tag is right, then there should not be an issue using a outdoor corded timer.

 

Would work if I didn't do the marine plug adapter!